Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until grasses are established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.

When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Install promptly with a properly prepared firm soil bed, identical to what is done for seeding. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or having gaps between pieces of sod. Cut a small trench in the soil adjacent to the paved areas so the sod roots are below the paved surface and not exposed to the air. The soil bed should be firm so when walking you do not leave footprints. Those footprints, once covered in sod will remain and become small indents creating a bumpy lawn surface.

New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation. This initial deep watering ensures the soil below the sod roll has adequate of moisture. Sod acts like mulch over the soil, so homeowners often do not need to water as often as is thought. Continue to check the soil by lifting a corner of sod and feeling the soil and ensuing the soil is moist. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development.

Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between 2½ and 3 inches is suggested. Core aerating the lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil will aid the development of a deep root system.

Don't fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; May and September are key times. If fertilizing only once a year, fall is the preferable time. Avoid over-applying nitrogen fertilizer, especially in spring or summer.

1. Read the label to determine your seeding rate. Suggested seeding rates are in the table above.
2. Seed at half the rate going east/west then repeat with the remaining half going north/south for guaranteed coverage
3. Drag a leaf rake over the surface for seed to soil contact
4. Lightly cover with straw mulch
5. Irrigate often enough to keep the seed zone moist.
6. Once the seed begins to germinate begin irrigate deeper with longer periods between waterings.
7. Mow once grass has reached a height of 3-3½”

1. Begin laying sod at far point from source to avoid foot traffic
2. Stagger sod roles so seams do not lineup
3. On steep hillsides lay sod across the slope starting at the bottom of the hill
4. Water deeply at first and then monitor and water as needed to keep soil moist (not saturated)
5. Ideally, sod will begin to root within 14 days. Tug on the rolls to know when they are rooted.
6. Mow once grass reaches a height of 3 to 4 inches tall.

Advantages

• Larger selection of species
• Turf develops in the environment in which it will ultimately survive
• Lower cost than sodding

Disadvantages

• Timing of establishment critical
• Slow stand development
• May require reseeding
• Rain or irrigation washes away seed
• Weeds will be a problem
• Initial watering is critical

Advantages

• ‘Instant lawn’
• May be trafficked soon after planting
• Dust, mud and erosion are reduced
• May be planted anytime during the growing season
• Weed-free

Disadvantages

• Typically, higher cost
• Choice of species limited
• Not produced in shaded environment
• Large volume of water needed initially
• Sod may shrink and weeds may invade
• Speed of rooting varies with season