Written by Jan Phipps, Edgar County Master Gardener

It’s September, and soon acorns, tree nuts, and other tree seeds will drop. With many nuts/seeds in the yard, it is natural to think about using some to start your own trees. It can be done; however, there is much to consider if you want success.
           
Beth Botts, a horticulture writer for the Chicago Tribune and Morton Arboretum, wrote, “… a tree in the forest bears tens of thousands of seeds every year – millions over its lifetime – and only a handful of them will ever become mature trees.” However, don’t let that discourage you, although most of the seedlings that germinate and start to grow become food for wildlife. As a grower, you can protect your immature trees until they are old enough to be no longer palatable.
           
The secret to starting a tree from seed is first to know your tree species. Does it drop seeds in the spring or the fall? Are the seeds soft like maples or covered with a hard outer shell like walnuts? Do the seeds lay on the ground over winter or sprout soon after contact with the earth? Do they have tap roots or spreading roots? Each tree has its requirements in nature which you will have to know to try and duplicate. Research your specific variety.
           
Timing is important. According to Botts, a silver maple drops in late spring, and white oaks drop acorns in late summer or early fall. What they have in common is both species must be planted within a few weeks of dropping to germinate. Other tree seeds need months of waiting before they can be planted.
           
Unlike some weed species (dandelions), whose seeds will continue to mature if cut early, tree seeds must be fully mature when harvested. An exception is pinecones, although the seeds inside are ripe. You can cut the closed cone from the tree in late summer, and when the scales dry out, they open and free the seeds.
           
Some trees native to cold climates produce seeds that need a chilling time called cold stratification, much like tulips. Examples are walnut, cherry, and juniper. Each species has its time length, so once again, research your tree.
           
Hard-shelled seeds need help to get moisture to the encapsulated seed. Sometimes soaking is adequate, and others will need nicking of the shell. Picture a lawnmower nicking a black walnut and then the tire pressing the nut into the damp soil. That accounts for the volunteers coming up under the mother tree.
           
Some trees (hickory and some oaks) have tap roots which require a narrow, deep container to allow room for that lengthening root. They are also harder to transplant than trees with a broad spreading root system.
           
The final key to success is planting many seeds to increase your chance of getting one or two viable individuals. And protect your seedlings from wildlife once they are moved into your landscape. Think of the fun you will have in overcoming the challenges and grow your tree from seed.

Call the Illinois Extension Master Gardeners of Edgar County with your landscape questions at 217-465-8585.

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