By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Fall gardens may need some added pops of color this time of year to maintain beauty and diversity until winter arrives. Asters are a late-blooming, pollinator friendly flower that looks great in the garden and in a fall floral display. 

Think beyond the obvious, fall-blooming favorite mums this year. Select a gorgeous, full-of-color aster instead.

There are 180 species of aster, many of which are native to Illinois. Their dainty, daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, white, pink, and red, all with bright yellow centers. New England aster, Symphyotrichum novaeangliae, and aromatic aster, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, are two easy-to-find favorites. 

Where to Plant Them

Asters grow best in full sun to partial shade areas with well-drained soils. They are typically perennials in Illinois gardens, but need to be in the ground at least six weeks before it freezes to develop a good root system and overwinter successfully.  

Varieties can vary in height from 6 inches to 6 feet. Taller varieties can be pruned back by a third several times throughout the summer, stopping in late July, to create a more compact plant. This will also increase the number of blooms on the plant.  

Asters will begin to bloom when the days get shorter in late summer to early fall. They are short-day plants, like mums, meaning they need long periods of darkness to initiate flower buds.  

Beware, it is normal for the lower leaves to turn brown and dry up when the plant is in full bloom.

Care and Dividing

To prevent asters from self-seeding throughout the garden, cut back the plant to about 2 inches above ground level after the first hard frost has turned the foliage brown. Gardeners can also choose to leave the plant and developing seeds for winter interest and for the birds to enjoy.  

To keep asters tidy and healthy, divide the plants in early spring every two to three years, or when the center dies out. Some varieties are unfortunately prone to powdery mildew, which can be reduced with good air circulation and watering in the morning at the base of the plant. 

A bee and butterfly favorite, asters are a great source of fall nectar for pollinators traveling on their fall migration. While most flowers have already finished blooming, asters are just starting their show in the garden.

They serve as the larval host plant for several butterflies and moths, including painted lady butterflies.   

Asters also make great cut flowers for mixed fall arrangements. Arrange them with bright yellow goldenrod and ornamental grasses for a stunning autumnal décor display.  

For more information on garden care, find a local Extension expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator 

While the bumblebee is likely the most well-known pollinator, pollinators come in a variety of shapes, species, and sizes.

Many entomologists believe the tiny sweat bee nectaring on your flowering weed is just as important to a healthy ecosystem as the more well-known bumble bee and honey bee.

Gardeners and homeowners can make a space more attractive to the small pollinators of Illinois by planting miniature flowers. These little bees, about the size of an ant, love pollinating miniature flowers in an urban environment where there is usually more floral diversity than in rural areas.  

When spring comes, instead of cutting your garden back to the ground, consider removing only the top of the stems to encourage opportunistic bees like small carpenter bees to make nesting cells to overwinter in.

Small Bees to Look For

Small sweat bees, Lasioglossum, are dark brown, gray, black, or metallic with hairs on their legs and abdomen giving them a fuzzy appearance. These pollinating bees nest in bare ground that has loose soil. They nest individually, but there may be multiple nests in one area.

Small sweat bees are especially attracted to a much-beloved Illinois native shrub, button bush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Button bush boasts minuscule tube-shaped florets on a globular white seed head in the middle of summer, followed by an ornamental red seed head. This large shrub grows to about 6 to 8 feet and can form thickets in wet environments. 

Yellow-faced or masked bees, Hylaeus, are dark bees that look like wasps with their yellow or white face markings. Lacking the hair of typical pollinating bees, these tiny bees ingest pollen and nectar, then regurgitate the mixture in nesting cells to feed larvae when they hatch.

This pollinator emerges in the late spring when the bold flowers of golden alexanders, Zizia aurea, begin to bloom and remains active until the compound flowers of goldenrod, Solidago spp, start to fade. Yellow-faced bees can be seen pollinating the miniature white and purple flowers of common mountain mint, Pycnanthemum virginianum. These small flowers are arranged in clusters that bloom in late summer.

Small carpenter bees, Ceratina, which are black and metallic blue, excavate the center of small stems in the garden. They have fine pollen-collecting hairs on their legs and carry pollen and nectar back to the nest within the stem.

Small carpenter bees are attracted to small flowers of spring-blooming pussy willow, Salix spp, and summer-blooming yarrow, Achillea millefolium. Yarrow flowers cannot pollinate themselves and rely on the service of small bees.

For more information on how to support pollinators, contact a local Extension horticulture expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Christopher Enroth, horticulture educator 

Fall is a great time to plant trees, many of which are originally grown at a nursery either in a plastic container or in the ground before they are balled and burlapped. How the tree is grown in its first years and then planted affects the long-term health of the tree.

Balled-and-burlapped trees are still widely used especially for planting larger nursery stock.  

What are Balled-and-Burlapped Trees?

Balled-and-burlapped trees are grown in ground at the nursery. When it is time to sell the tree, a large machine called a tree spade digs up an intact root ball. However, many of the smaller roots are lost when the tree spade pulls up the root ball. Up to 90% of the entire root system may be lost as the tree is removed from the ground.

The root ball is then wrapped in burlap and set in a wire cage that is tied tightly to keep the root ball intact while it is moved to the planting site.

Once at the planting site, the debate about the next steps begins. Either the tree can be planted with the wire cage and burlap still in place, or the wire cage can be removed and the burlap cut or rolled down, exposing at least the top third of the root ball.

Does Burlap and Wire Help or Hinder Trees?

Those arguing for leaving on the burlap and wire cage say it helps with establishment by guaranteeing the root ball is not disturbed and protecting any remaining roots. It also maintains the soil structure around the root system. If the burlap used is natural, the fibers will decompose and the tree will grow around the wire cage. Removing the materials takes installation crews longer, which leads to greater expense.

On the flip side, some contend that leaving the burlap and wire cage on negatively affects the long-term health of the tree. Leaving the burlap on hinders root development into the native soil. Burying the burlap slows its decomposition making it a barrier for much longer than expected.

If the tree is an unstoppable force, then the wire cage is like an immovable object the tree cannot grow around. Eventually, the tree will conflict with the cage and may grow around it, but could possibly become girdled.

In the scientific studies comparing the two methods for planting balled and burlapped trees, researchers found little difference in the overall growth and health of the trees in both situations. However, time is a major factor

If all goes as planned, a newly planted tree is expected to out-live the gardener. But scientists need to publish their data while still alive so very few long-term studies exist.

Examining the arguments for and against removing the material from a balled-and-burlapped tree, it seems to be a trade-off between successful establishment and long-term health.

Post-Planting Tree Care

This entire debate is secondary to other tree planting and care items, such as watering and pruning for future tree structure. Without basic tree care, it won’t matter whether the burlap was left on or not.

The following steps are great recommendations to follow when planting new balled-and-burlapped trees.

• Remove and discard any twine on the base of the tree and the basket.
• Pull back burlap from the top of the root ball.
• Remove soil from the top of the root ball to find where the trunk starts to flare outward. If no flare is found, which is common on conifers, remove the soil to the topmost root.
• Remove the top one-third of the wire basket.
• Pull back or remove burlap in the top one-third of the basket.
• Backfill soil, filling in all air pockets.
• Stake the tree if necessary

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator 

The splendor of trees and shrubs comes from what is above ground, but don’t forget about what lies beneath. Poorly drained areas, easily identified after a downpour of rain, are not suitable for some trees or shrubs.

Soil plays a vital role in the survival of trees and shrubs in the landscape. 

Planting the right trees and shrubs in poorly drained sites has many benefits. Roots take up excess water and promote improved soil filtration. Reducing standing water can help decrease mosquito populations and create a more pleasurable environment. Surface drainage may be preferred over sub-soil drainage, which is limited or slow. Moving the water away is a great start.

Tree placement and Care

When deciding on a new tree for a wet area, think up and down, imagining both the mature canopy and the expansion of the root system.

Trees that do well in wetter soils often have a shallower root system, so be prepared to find those roots at or near the surface as the tree matures.

Placement will be pivotal for tree success, especially when planting in wet soils. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in the soil, influences soil moisture retention. Soil texture also influences aeration, how air moves through the soil. Avoid heavy clay soils, which have poor aeration and drainage, and hardpan soil, which is underlaid with rocky material that can interfere with root development.

Do not plant trees in wet areas in the fall. One threat to planting in wet soils is frost heaving, an upward swelling of the soil during freezing conditions caused by ice formation in the pore spaces of soils.

Plant trees and shrubs on wet sites during the early spring to ensure a full season of growth and reduce the likelihood of frost heaving that happens with a fall planting. 

Other placement considerations include precipitation patterns and poorly-timed or located irrigation systems. Downspout rain discharge may also influence the suitability of a planting site.

Looking at the distribution of trees in the wild can also help guide plant selection. However, some species such as bald cypress or black gum can adapt to heavy moisture and other growing conditions that may not occur where they are naturally found.

Research to find out what the requirements for moisture are when selecting trees and shrubs. Prior performance will also indicate what trees or shrubs may be successful in your landscape.

Know Before You Grow

It is much more cost-effective to plant the right species for the location than to try to adjust the site conditions. 

Trees and shrubs that thrive in wet sites include:

• Downy serviceberry, Amelanchier arborea
• River birch, Betula nigra
• American hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana
• Common hackberry, Celtis occidentalis
• Dawn redwood, Metasequoia glyptostroboides
• Black gum, Nyssa sylvatica
• Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum
• Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis
• Gray dogwood, Cornus racemose
• Redosier dogwood, Cornus sericea
• Spice bush, Lindera benzoin

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator 

Birdseed and firewood are two common topics that show up every fall. Both take some planning to be successful. 

Feeding Birds in the Winter

Feeding the birds means starting earlier than later. Birds need to know early on that there will be something to eat on a regular basis if you want them to hang around in your yard. 

With the recent outbreak of songbird deaths, Illinois officials are not currently recommending removing feeders, but stress cleaning and sanitizing feeders every two weeks and hummingbird feeders weekly.

Choose the Right Birdseed

Buying birdseed that has a little bit of everything for every bird can add up to a lot of wasted seed on the ground. Consider putting out seed that will attract only your favorite birds. This can be more cost-effective as the unwanted seed will feed four-legged critters, not to mention make a mess on the patio or in the lawn.

The type of birdseed chosen will also help determine the kind of feeder needed. Typically, feeders are designed for the size of seed being distributed — thistle versus sunflower, for example.

You may end up with several feeders catering to a variety of your favorite birds.

Birdseed can be a feeding source for pantry pests such as the Indian Meal Moth, so keep seed securely covered and consider storage in a cool garage.

Most think of feeding birds, fewer think about supplying water, too. Consider birdbaths that have a heating element to keep them from icing over in the winter.

Seasoning and Storing Winter Firewood

Now on to firewood. It is never a good idea to burn “green” firewood in the home fireplace as it will take heat away from the room and can add substantially to the creosote buildup in the chimney. Outdoors it can make for so much smoke it is impossible to sit close enough to enjoy the fire.

It may not be critical to have the best firewood to burn in an outdoor fire pit, but it is an entirely different story for the indoor fireplace.

Seasoned firewood means the wood, for logs more than 6 inches, has been cut, split, and dried for a long time. Clues that the wood is seasoned are a gray color on the ends of a log and checkmarks showing moisture loss.

Firewood should be around 20% to 25% moisture to burn well and limit smoke. Those who purchase well-seasoned wood need to keep it dry before burning it.

Make the woodpile easy to uncover and recover, or you will find yourself leaving the cover off and allowing the firewood to reabsorb the water you paid to remove.

As a rule, the heavier the firewood, given the same moisture content, the more heat it will give off. This is something to consider if there are different tree species available to purchase.

Once the home fireplace is being regularly used, only bring in the amount of firewood expected to be used in a week. It takes more than a week to “thaw out” any outdoor insects that have hidden in cracks and crevices on the bark.

This practice will keep the insects from wandering around your home and, while not likely to do any damage indoors, will keep family peace.

As an additional precaution, when stacking firewood next to the outside wall of a home, leave a few inches between for good air movement and an extra barrier for insects.

More information about cutting, purchasing, and burning firewood is available at go.illinois.edu/Firewood.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator 

As the growing season wraps up and gardeners put vegetable beds to rest and clean and store tools for the winter, there is one task they may be forgetting. Testing the soil’s nutrients can provide a better understanding of a garden’s health and save money in the long run.

Over time, soil fertility, pH, and even soil structure can change as nutrients are depleted. Testing soils will identify missing nutrients that can then be addressed as needed. Unless there is a specific issue being remedied, soil should be tested every three to five years.

Fall is a great time for gardeners to test since soil temperatures are still above 50°F and the growing season is slowing down. Any added organic matter will then decompose, and nutrients will filter into the soil over winter well before planting season.

Depending on the soil’s natural fertility and what is being grown in it, plants can perform well for years without needing fertilizer. While fertilization can help with plant vigor and vitality, experts recommend first establishing a need and purpose for fertilizer. Understanding soil nutrient concentrations before applying fertilizer is important in a sustainable landscape.

If fertilizer is not necessary, why waste product and time applying it? Overfertilization can harm trees, shrubs, and even turfgrass, especially during drought conditions.

Excess fertilizer can also end up in waterways and lead to aquatic life and water quality issues.

What do Soil Tests Tell Gardeners? 

A basic soil test will measure soil pH and organic matter as well as macronutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7 and most horticultural crops do well in the range of 6 to 6.8. Many soil testing labs will also measure amounts of micronutrients such as boron, copper, iron, or manganese.

If you are concerned about soil contaminants, such as lead in an urban site, contact the soil lab about specific instructions and additional costs.

Since soil samples must represent an entire yard or garden, take several core samples from evenly distributed spots and then mix them together. Remove any roots, rocks, or twigs. Gardeners can use a soil probe, sharp spade, or trowel to gather soil, taking care to remove the same amount for each sample. If comparing soils, such as a seemingly fertile soil and one that does not produce well, take and test two separate samples.

Home soil test kits are widely variable and not recommended. There are several soil testing labs in Illinois. Labs vary in pricing and services, so call before mailing soil samples.

Many labs will provide interpretation of the soil test results upon request and Illinois Extension horticulture staff can provide further guidance. Locate a local county Extension office go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Along with soil testing, preventative plant care can reduce the need for not only fertilizers, but herbicides and pesticides as well. Most healthy trees and shrubs do not need fertilizers once they are mature and native annuals and perennials are more suited to local soils than non-native species reducing the need for fertilizer. Established lawns benefit from cultural practices such as using disease-resistant varieties, soil aeration, over-seeding, and mowing at the correct height with sharp mower blades.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Mary Fischer, horticulture educator 

One of the pricier expenditures for home gardeners is quality hand tools. High-quality tools will last longer, but this does mean the tools — whether shovels, rakes, pruners, or hand trowels — cost more.

Buy the best you can afford. Take care of your tools, and they will take care of you. This takes time and effort, but can extend the life of your investment.

With winter coming up, make sure to clean, oil, and sharpen tools before storing them for the season.

Store Garden Tools Properly

The first step to tool maintenance is proper storage. Do not leave tools outside where they can absorb moisture from wet grass and dew. Instead, store tools off the ground and away from potential moisture, such as in a shed, barn, or garage.

• Long-handled tools can be stored conveniently on hanging racks or tool holders, which helps prevent damage to sharpened edges and keeps the tools organized. Often more than one tool can be hung in a small area.
• Short-handled or hand tools can be stored using a pegboard system.
• An outline of the tool drawn on the pegboard can help identify a missing tool. If a tool is missing, check outside. Attach bright marking tape to the handle of tools to spot them more easily outdoors.

Maintenance and Care

Garden tools are typically exposed to soil and moisture. To preserve tools and keep them in proper working order, it is extremely important for tools to be clean and dry before storing.

Use a wire brush, paint scraper, or a strong blast from a hose to remove caked-on soil from shovels and hand trowels. Wipe small hand tools, such as pruners or shears, to remove any sap or moisture from the blades. Turpentine, alcohol, or mineral spirits can remove stubborn sap. Fine steel may be used, if needed.

Once clean and dry, apply an oil-based protective coating to any metal surfaces to prevent rust. If desired, use a good quality spray paint to protect metal surfaces. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment to protect eyes and hands while doing this.

Wooden handles should be free of rough areas. Sanding will help smooth out these spots. To maintain the life of the wooden handles, apply a protective coating using boiled linseed oil, oil from dried flax seeds. Polish smooth with a dry soft cloth.

Good quality hand pruners can be disassembled for cleaning and sharpening. Many pruner manufacturers have replaceable blades. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool and a good deal of effort to remove dirt, rust, and sap from pruner blades.

It’s very important to examine the blades for any damage due to cracks, nicks, or burrs. The beveled edge of the blade should be sharpened at the same angle as the bevel.

Before storing tools away for the winter, sharpen any dull tools used for digging or pruning and file down any nicks. When it comes to sharpening, tools such as whetstones or files, are a matter of personal preference and ability.

Whetstones come in different gradations and sizes. A longer stone may be easier to use for garden tools. Whetstones require a lubricant such as 3-in-1 oil.

Diamond-coated flat files can last a lifetime and only require water for lubrication. For a quick sharpening job during the season, try a ceramic sharpener. Another quick fix is a bastard file.

It is not advisable to use power grinding stones. Heat generated through friction can make the metal brittle.

Once tools are sharp, coat the blade or metal surface lightly with an oil lubricant such as WD-40.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Every fall, an onslaught of leaves drop relentlessly into yards leaving homeowners to rake, bag, and haul them out on the curb. But what many don’t know is that those golden-hued leaves are gold in the garden.

After raking leaves this fall, think about recycling them on your property rather than bagging them for curbside pick-up.

Fallen leaves are one of the most readily available forms of organic matter for home gardeners. Decomposing leaves increase organic matter in the soil, can be used as mulch for garden beds and lawns, and are a valuable addition to compost piles.

Ways to Recycle Leaves

Break down leaves with a leaf shredder or mulcher. Or, run over raked leaves with a lawnmower to cut them into smaller pieces. This initial breakdown allows for improved air circulation and more surface area leading to quicker decomposition.

Be sure to separate diseased leaves from the leaves you plan to recycle or compost.

The rate of decomposition for leaves will depend on the leaf size, tree species, and moisture level. Brown leaves break down faster if they are shredded and moistened. If un-shredded leaves are applied as mulch, they tend to mat together and suffocate the soil or vegetation.

However, having matted leaves in a vegetable or annual garden bed in the fall will help smother winter annual weeds. In the spring, the leaves can be incorporated or tilled into the soil.

Another easy way to recycle leaves is by storing them in garbage bags with small holes that allows leaves to break down naturally. Wetting the leaves and having holes in direct contact with the earth, where more microbes are present, will speed up the decomposition process. The end result is referred to as leaf mold or partially decomposed leaves.

Leaf mold can then be used as mulch or saved as a carbon source for adding to your compost pile in the summer when there is less readily available "brown" materials.

Brown or dry materials are typically high in carbon and will help to balance the “green” or wet nitrogen-rich materials in a compost pile.

Why Not Leave the Leaves?

Leaves serve as a wonderful soil conditioner and increase organic matter in the soil, which has a variety of benefits. More organic material will increase the amount of microbial activity which includes beneficial bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms that aid in plant growth. Organic matter also coats finer clay particles in the soil providing more air space and binds sandy soils allowing for better water retention.

Ideal garden soils should test at 5% organic matter. A standard soil test will provide the percentage of organic matter in soil. For information on soil testing kits and labs, contact a University of Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

By recycling leaves on your property, not only will you be improving your garden soil, you will also be making an environmentally conscious choice to keep your yard waste on-site rather than having it hauled off as waste.

To learn more about the basics of composting, visit extension.illinois.edu/global/composting-resources.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Even with the best teachers and best technology, sometimes the best learning happens in the garden. Many school grounds have gardens for visual reasons, but the benefits of having flowers, herbs, vegetables, and fruit trees go far beyond beautification.

While so much emphasis put on the use of technology in the classroom, many kids today are missing out on the experience right outside the school doors.

School gardens create hands-on learning opportunities for students that aren’t typically found in a classroom. Classes where students are able to plan, plant, and care for a green space have been proven to benefit not only the youth but also their community in a variety of ways. Research shows gardening activities can be brought into a variety of subjects and bring learning to life for science, social studies, math, writing, visual arts, health, and nutrition.

Imagine being able to dig in the soil to explore its makeup instead of looking at pictures. Students can observe firsthand the act of pollination and the life cycle of plants, or be inspired by the garden while writing an essay or painting a picture.

The garden can also be used for health and nutrition lessons or a place to practice physical fitness while pulling weeds or spreading mulch. By growing fruits and vegetables, children's food attitudes and behaviors can change for the better. They are more likely to eat vegetables they have grown themselves and share those preferences with others.

Young learners need a place to play, explore, and learn. School gardens can be an asset to every student and teacher, offering a place to get outdoors, connect with the natural world, and explore new concepts through experiential learning.

Illinois Extension horticulture staff are available to assist schools and childcare facilities of all sizes and grade levels with starting a garden, reviving an existing garden, or connecting the curriculum to the garden. To connect with an educator in your area, visit go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

Every summer, neighbors on either side of their respective fences revive the great debate about which is better when it comes to summer lawn care. Do you water all summer or let Mother Nature take its course?

You can find pros and cons on both sides of the fence. One of the biggest perks is enjoying a beautiful, lush green lawn in the height of the summer heat, which has the downside when July’s water bill comes.

Hentschel advises deciding whether you are going to water or not in spring because it determines what other lawn management practices are needed.

If you are going to water all summer, that changes the fertilizer program, mowing frequency, and when to collect or leave lawn clippings. Depending on the age of the lawn, disease management may also be on your list.

Those who decide to water will need to maintain a higher level of care including adding fertilizer. The typical cool-season grasses naturally expect to go dormant during the heat of summer. Keeping the grass alive with water means it will need more energy through fertilizer. More water and more fertilizer mean more frequent mowing and an overall increase in the amount of time you’re likely to spend on lawn management.

If you have an older lawn, the potential for lawn fungal diseases can increase with more water and fertilizer. Newer lawns are grown from improved seeds that are less prone to disease. A good preventative practice is to map out your watering so the lawn is dry well before the end of the sunshine. Consider starting on the north or east sides of the home, where it will take longer to dry and finish on southern or western exposures.

For those who opt-out of watering, the lawn will stay green as long as the rain lasts. It will go dormant when the weather turns hot and dry.

Homeowners will find plenty of cost savings with this option. In addition to using less water, you’ll use less fertilizer because grass that is dormant does not need to be fertilized. A dormant lawn will also need to be mowed less often, meaning less fuel for the mower.

One of the best ways to keep your lawn looking good is to mow higher, more often, and with a sharp mower blade.

The taller grass blade further shades the soil, helping to retain what soil moisture is there. This works out very well for the lawn, whether you water or not.

There will be no need to figure out what to do with all the clippings either, so long as they do not smother the lawn.

To keep your grass green for as long as possible, Hentschel suggests top-dressing the lawn annually with quality black dirt or other organic matter that will absorb and hold water for the lawn to use later.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, Horticulture Educator

The secret to salsa from scratch is using the freshest ingredients straight from a homegrown garden. Andrew Holsinger, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator says even those without a lot of outdoor space can grow salsa ingredients on a patio or porch.

While planting seeds in the ground gives you the best opportunity to pick custom cultivars for your personal preferences, most of these ingredients can also be grown in containers.

Tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic, and cilantro are key components of a salsa garden. Other plants include oregano, scallions, and cucumbers.

Holsinger advises planting vegetables and herbs according to your local hardiness zone and fertilizing throughout the growing season. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil for best results and water at the base of the plant will help gardeners avoid diseases from soil splashed onto leaves.

As the base ingredient, tomato variety has an impact on taste and the amount of liquid. For a thicker salsa, use paste tomatoes such as ‘Roma,’ ‘Marzano,’ ‘Veeroma,’ and ‘Viva Italia.’ For a thinner, watery salsa, use slicing varieties, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Better Boy,’ ‘Big Beef,’ and ‘Floramerica.’ Choose disease-resistant varieties.

Tomatoes are a warm-season vegetable that should be planted about two weeks after the average last frost date when soil temperatures stay above 60⁰F.

Tomatillos, also called Mexican ground cherries or Mexican husk tomatoes, are often used as a thickening agent in salsa or as the basis for a salsa verde. A sprawling relative of the tomato, tomatillo plants may be trained by pruning to stay within a designated area or container.

Peppers are tender warm-season vegetables that need higher temperatures than tomatoes and will determine the degree of heat in a salsa. Select pepper varieties based on shape, color, and disease resistance. Peppers can be picked at any size, but they are usually harvested when the fruit is mature.

Always exercise caution and wear plastic or rubber gloves when handling or picking hot varieties of peppers.

Onions are a cool-season vegetable. Holsinger advises planting long-day varieties in Northern Illinois and short-day varieties in Southern Illinois. There is also a newer day-neutral onion, which is between a short-day and long-day onion.

Garlic is a perennial that should be planted in the fall. It should be divided annually to get good-sized bulbs. Plant individual cloves in well-drained soil for the largest bulbs. Hardneck varieties have larger cloves than the softneck varieties and are easier to peel. Holsinger recommends the hardneck varieties ‘Spanish Roja,’ ‘Carpathian,’ and ‘Georgian Crystal.’

Cilantro is an herb often used to flavor salsas. Pick cilantro before the plant flowers and plant it in succession to maintain a steady supply through the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Pollinators are responsible for an estimated one in every three bites of food that humans eat, so it’s no wonder they’re getting a lot of buzz these days. For those who want to support these hard-working environmental contributors, but don’t have a large yard or outdoor space, container gardens are the answer.

There are a few things to consider when creating a container garden that will attract and support pollinators throughout the growing season, says Nancy Kreith, University of Illinois Extension. horticulture educator.

Pick a location that has full sun, at least six hours of daylight, and fill it with plants that will thrive in that condition.

You will have the most success with plants that are drought-tolerant. That way, you will not have to water as much. Annuals are a good choice, but you can also select Illinois native perennial plants.

One combination may be a short variety of zinnia as a border and cosmos as a centerpiece. Another option is lantana as a border and a shorter variety of sunflower, 3- to 4-feet tall, as a centerpiece. Marigolds can work as a border plant for annual blue salvia.

I’ve had great success in attracting hummingbirds with ‘Black & Blue’ salvia.

Native perennials that perform well in containers include purple coneflower, prairie blazing star, bottle gentian, lanceleaf coreopsis, prairie smoke, and field pussytoes.

Herbs grow well in containers. Dill, fennel, and parsley are host plants for the black swallowtail butterfly. Other herbs with significant blooms include lavender, chive, nasturtium, thyme, basil, borage, and hyssop. Group herbs based on their size when fully grown and watering needs.

Lavender and thyme are both fairly drought tolerant, so that would be a good combination.

Borage and nasturtium also work well together with borage filling the bulk of the pot while a trailing variety of nasturtium will spill over the side of the container.

Choosing the appropriate container is important. It should be large enough to support plenty of plants and have drainage holes at the bottom.

Kreith recommends using a soilless potting mix that is peat or coir based and includes a mineral, such as perlite to allow for better drainage. Add fertilizer or use a potting mix that already contains it.

Water plants until it drips out of the bottom of the container. Smaller containers will need to be watered more often.

During hot months, daily watering is typical. Larger containers will not dry out as fast, so every other day watering may be enough.

Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming and avoid unwanted reseeding. Monitor your perennials for stress levels and replace if they become unsightly or die.

Once the growing season is over, Kreith says containers can be brought indoors and overwintered in a garage, shed, or basement. If you’re going to leave them outside, group containers together in an area protected from wind, then water them and cover with a thermal blanket, straw, shredded leaves, or other mulch.

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Blossom end rot is the scourge for any tomato grower. What starts as a light tan spot at the end of the fruit where the blossom was, will expand and eventually turn black and leathery.

When it comes to tomatoes, it is most commonly seen on larger fruited cultivars or long-fruited varieties like roma. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers, eggplants, squash, and watermelons.

Contrary to popular belief, blossom end rot is not caused by a disease or insects. It is actually a physiological disorder caused by low levels of calcium. There are few reasons a plant may not be getting enough calcium. Usually, it’s not an issue of a lack of calcium in the soil, but rather how well the plants absorb calcium.

Plant leaves transpire and naturally lose water so they then take up more water along with nutrients from the soil. Anything that gets in the way of transpiration can reduce calcium uptake.

Drought stress, inconsistent soil moisture, cold or waterlogged soils, and rapid vegetative growth due to too much nitrogen fertilization can all lead to blossom end rot. High concentrations of ammonium, potassium, and magnesium in the soil, often due to over-fertilization, can also cause issues with calcium uptake.

Others argue that blossom end rot is caused by abiotic stress to the plants. Drought, high light intensity, or heat cause cells in the fruits to die which results in blossom end rot.

Regardless of what exactly causes blossom end rot, there are steps gardeners can take to prevent it.

Start by picking tomato varieties that are less prone to developing blossom end rot, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Mountain Pride,’ and cherry tomatoes. Do a soil test to find out the calcium levels and if calcium should be added.

Avoid excessive fertilization of plants during early fruiting, especially with fertilizers using ammonium as their nitrogen source (ammonium competes with calcium uptake).

Water plants deeply starting when fruits first form and continuing throughout the growing season. In general, plants need about one inch of moisture per week, whether from rain or irrigation. If hot, dry weather is predicted, make sure plants are well watered before it arrives and continue watering daily. Adding a top layer of mulch can help conserve and even out the moisture in the soil.

Containers dry out quickly, so these plants are more likely to develop blossom end rot without consistent watering. Potted plants should be fertilized. Some soilless potting mixes have low nutrient levels, so it may be necessary to add fertilizer.

Unfortunately, once a fruit has blossom end rot, there is nothing you can do. Foliar applications of calcium don’t help much because the calcium doesn’t move into the fruit well. It is best to remove the fruit and discard it. 

By Ryan Pankau, horticulture educator

In recent years, milkweeds have gained attention from the public due to their exclusive relationship with the monarch butterfly.

Many people are familiar with common milkweed. Before I knew the exact species name, I knew this plant was a milkweed and that it had milky sap.

The common milkweed is a notoriously weedy species, growing wherever its light, fluffy seeds land. Any open sunny habitat will do from roadside ditches to abandoned fields, along woodland edges and railroad tracks.

While you may be familiar with the common variety, there are more than 20 milkweed species native to Illinois.

The variety and adaptability in this plant family is really quite amazing. You can find milkweed thriving in nearly every environment throughout our state — wetlands, woodlands, open prairies, and even rocky glades.

Although many of them are remarkably adaptable, five species of milkweed are currently listed as endangered in Illinois and one is considered federally threatened.

Swamp milkweed is one of two native milkweeds that prefer wetland habitats with full sun and moist, not wet, soil. Despite these very specific preferences, it occurs in nearly every county across Illinois. It often pops up in drier locations where it takes on a narrow form with wider leaves, which can make field identification challenging.

The adaptability and attractive appearance of swamp milkweed makes it a popular landscape plant. Its small pink flowers are quite fragrant, exuding a cinnamon scent when it blooms.

Butterfly milkweed is another ornamental extrovert among the milkweed family often found in landscape plantings.

Many gardeners I’ve discussed this plant with over the years did not even realize it was actually a milkweed and for good reason.

Butterfly milkweed has an alternate leaf arrangement and lacks the trademark milky sap. To add to the confusion, it is commonly referred to as ‘butterfly weed’ on plant tags and in common parlance. It has immaculate orange blooms, while most milkweed flowers are white or pink. It has long-lasting blooms, which appear first in early summer and often for a second time in late summer or early fall.

Whether you’re looking for an interesting and ecologically valuable plant to add to your landscape, or just want to observe and enjoy interesting plant species in nature, consider this underrecognized Illinois native. There truly is a milkweed out there for everyone. 

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

As the air conditioners crank up this summer, so do the watering needs of the garden. Watering is one the simplest and most routine gardening tasks, but there are ways to make it more efficient.

The general rule of thumb for summer watering is about 1 inch of water per week for most herbaceous plants in the garden, but there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. 

When daytime temperatures start to get into the 90s, Little recommends doubling the irrigation amount to 2 inches per week, depending on how fast the soil is drying out.

One simple way to monitor how much water the garden is getting is to bury an empty tuna can even with the soil line. The can is 1-inch deep so it will act as a low-tech watering gauge.

When combined with a simple rain gauge, you’ll have a pretty good idea of your garden’s weekly watering needs. 

Automated watering systems are convenient, but when it’s raining, cooler, and cloudy, or hot and windy, the watering needs will change and it’s important to adjust an automated system as needed.

On average, 1 inch of irrigation can percolate down about 8 inches into the soil. Check to see whether water is getting to the root zone by probing a few inches into the soil with a trowel, or simply digging in with your finger.

If a lot of soil particles stick to your finger and there is noticeable moisture, then there’s likely sufficient soil water for the day. 

Containers drain out faster than in-ground plantings, so they may need to be watered once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. Signs like drooping, curling, yellowing and dropping leaves can indicate acute water stress, but it’s not always from too little water. Signs of overwatering can look remarkably similar so check soil moisture often.

It’s usually best to water early in the morning because this allows the water to soak into the root zone where it will be the most useful to the plant as the day warms up. Watering early also helps more water to absorb into the soil. As the day heats up, as much as two-thirds of the water from irrigation can be lost to evaporation.

Pairing drip lines or soaker hoses with mulch will help the soil hold onto moisture longer and keep the soil cooler on the hottest days. Place drip irrigation lines near plants and layer 2 inches of mulch over the lines and the plants. This combination will allow plants to thrive through the harshest summer heat.

By Jennifer Fishburn, horticulture educator

To a child, a dandelion is a magical thing. It’s one of the first plants we learn to recognize. The bright yellow flowers make cheerful bouquets, necklaces, and crowns. The fluffy white seed heads become wishes when we squeeze our eyes shut and blow.

Adults, especially home gardeners striving for a perfectly manicured lawn, tend to be less fond of this deep-rooted, cool-season, non-native perennial.

But believe it or not, dandelion seeds are available for purchase from garden seed catalog companies.

Common dandelion, Taraxacum officinale, is easily recognized by a basal rosette of deeply cut leaves, a long taproot, and a hollow stem that supports yellow flowers. The yellow flower is actually a composite of several flowers, each able to make a parachute-like brown seed that can be carried aloft several miles by the wind. The stalk can support as many as 100 to 300 flowers.

Fishburn says there are a couple of potential reasons that gardeners may want to cultivate dandelions.

Pollinating insects will visit dandelion flowers to collect pollen and nectar. While dandelions may not have the most nutritious pollen, they can still be an important food source when there aren’t many other flowers available. Dandelions will flower throughout the year but mainly appear in early spring or late fall.

They also have several culinary uses. Most recipes use the leaves, which are taste slightly bitter. Tender leaves, harvested in the spring before plants bloom, can be eaten raw, while older leaves are cooked. Use the leaves in salads, soups, as cooked greens, and in potato salad. The flowers can be made into wine or jelly.

If you are not a dandelion fan, it is possible to get rid of them, but ensuring that they won’t return requires some effort. Dandelions prefer to grow in a moist, sunny location, but will also grow in shade. If the soil is moist, a small dandelion can be successfully removed by hand.

Moist conditions make the job easier,” says Fishburn, “but even with moist soil, it is difficult to pull a dandelion and remove the entire taproot.

A dandelion can grow a six to 18-inch taproot. Leaving behind even a 1-inch section can result in a new plant.

A properly maintained, healthy, dense stand of turfgrass is the best defense against weed invasions. If necessary, Fishburn suggests doing a spot treatment in early fall with postemergence herbicides.

This is when the dandelion plant is taking food from the leaves and storing it in the roots. When using herbicides, always read and follow label directions carefully.

Whether the sight of these bright yellow flowers dotting a lawn makes you cringe or makes you smile, these plants are connected to memories of summer, childhood, and magic.

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Trees are large components in the landscape, both in size and life span. When pests, pathogens, or disorders appear or a tree is not cared for properly, the compromised tree can harm people or property.

Hiring someone to assess tree healthcare needs helps ensure the long-term health and safety of trees in the landscape. Choosing the right tree care company for your needs can mean the difference between an expensive headache and money well spent.

Certified arborists are trained and qualified in the evaluation and diagnosis of tree disorders through the International Society of Arboriculture. An arborist certification means they know about the science of tree establishment, pruning, safety, and fertilization in accordance with national standards.

Before hiring, we recommend the tree owner assess their needs. What do they need? Identification, diagnosis, pruning, or removal? A local Illinois Extension office can help clarify that process.

When diagnosing a tree, a reliable tree care company will ask questions such as when the tree was planted, how and when it has been pruned, what symptoms have been observed, and any recent nearby construction. Make note of symptoms and their timeline for easy reference.

Some companies specialize in regular maintenance, such as fertilizing or pruning hedges. Pruning fruit trees or pruning a limb over a building may warrant work from two different companies. If a tree needs to be removed, ask how and when the company will access the yard. Take precautions to minimize damage to surrounding structures, trees, lawns, and other objects.

It is important to confirm the company is insured. Insurance can protect both the tree service and the homeowner from litigation if there is an accident. Liability insurance covers damage to homeowner property and worker’s compensation insurance covers injuries to employees while working. Ask for proof of insurance before any work begins.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Tree care can be costly, and a considerate professional will take time to explain the process.

Ask for and check referrals and references. A brief conversation with another customer can often provide valuable insight. Online reviews are handy but don’t always paint the whole picture. Tree care can be expensive. Get two to three written estimates and ask the same questions of each company: cost, services included, equipment used, payment terms, and time estimates. Cheap doesn’t always mean good.

Ask for a contract if one is not offered. This holds both parties accountable in the event of miscommunication. Homeowners and tree service professionals should agree on what tasks will be performed and when.

Companies should require the use of personal protective equipment and all crewmembers should follow national safety standard guidelines. This is not the client’s responsibility to enforce, but they can specify that all work be performed according to safety standards.

When considering credentials, ISA-certified arborists on staff are recommended, but not required. The arborist may belong to a local chapter or other professional associations. These memberships do not guarantee quality, but they do show professional commitment. There are other credentials that go beyond regular terms of service to show outstanding ability and commitment, such as AED and CPR training, emergency aerial rescue certification, powerline safety certification, and climber safety certification.

A knowledgeable tree care professional will do the job well, satisfy their customer, and ensure the longevity of the tree. To find a certified arborist in your area, visit International Society of Arboriculture, Tree Care Industry Association, American Society of Consulting Arborists, Illinois Arborist Association, or contact your local Extension office.

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

North America has lost 3 billion birds since 1970, according to a study from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. This is a 30% decrease.

This statistic may feel devastating and overwhelming, but you don’t have to feel helpless. There are some simple things that you can do to make your yard bird-friendly.

With habitat loss and degradation being the most significant contributors to population decline, the good news is that even small green spaces can provide the four things that birds need to thrive: food, cover, water, and space.

Landscape plants provide the food birds need to survive and raise their young and diversity is key. Seeds, nuts, berries, and the insects plants attract are all important sources of nourishment.

Young birds eat more than you might think. Even small adult birds, the chickadee, for example, need 6,000 caterpillars to raise a clutch of young birds.

Adding plants that provide food for caterpillars ensures an important food source for growing birds. Native trees, including oak, willow, cherry, plum, and birch can support many different caterpillar species. Herbs and native perennials, such as butterfly weed, violets, and dill are also host plants for caterpillars. 

Berries, nuts, and seeds are other essential food sources that provide calories to help birds prepare for overwintering or migration. Several native shrub varieties provide berries. Serviceberry, also known as Juneberry, produces berries in the early summer. Other native species, such as red twig dogwood, elderberry, viburnum, and spicebush yield berries throughout summer. Holly, chokecherry, hawthorn, and crabapple have fruit that stays on the branches, providing food all winter long. 

Common sources for nuts and seeds include oak, hickory, beech, maple, and birch trees. Spruce, pine, and fir trees provide pine nuts as well as year-round shelter for birds. Herbaceous plants, such as coneflower, aster, sunflower, and goldenrod provide seeds if left in the garden until spring. 

A bird-friendly yard must have cover for shelter and nesting sites. The dense structure of willow, hawthorn, holly, and conifer trees provides valuable protection. Milkweeds, native thistles, cinnamon ferns, and asters produce soft, fluffy material that many bird species use to build nests. 

Adding water to your landscape will also attract birds. Small ponds with uneven edges and shallow spaces provide a place for birds to drink, splash, and bathe. A small pump will keep water moving and reduce mosquito concerns.

For a less permanent option, try a birdbath. Change the water every two to three days and clean the bath with a scrub brush once a week to keep the water clean, healthy, and mosquito-free. 

A final element to consider is space. Wildlife feel more at home in layered, densely planted areas, so Flowers-Kimmerle recommends leaving part of a yard unmanicured.

Careful consideration for food, cover, water, and space in your yard will provide much-needed habitat for a variety of bird species. Even small changes can make a significant difference in supporting bird populations.

By Bruce J. Black, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Ice and snow. Ice and snow. Fluctuating temperatures and unusual warmer weather delayed this winter, but ice and snow did eventually arrive. After a long winter, we are all looking forward to spring 2021, fresh air and gardening.

While we are just now able to start seeds in March, thumbing through the 2021 seed and plant catalogs has hopefully brought you inspiration and warmth this winter.

Gardening starts long before the first seed is planted and planning is essential for both first-time and experienced gardeners.

Finding space for new plants that are suited for your USDA hardiness and having blossoms all year long can be a challenge. After mapping out your existing perennials, think about what new plants could be added to your landscape.

A great starting place is the All-America Selections, AAS, an independent non-profit organization that releases several trialed plants each year as AAS Winners. New, never-before-sold varieties are tested every year at the AAS private and public trial sites around the United States and Canada. There are four trial locations in Illinois - three northern, and one central.

Independent judges who are professional horticulturists volunteer to evaluate trial entries against comparison plants and the top performers are chosen as winners. For the best plants suited to Illinois, look for Great Lakes or National winners on the AAS lists.

2021 AAS Winners

This year, there are six AAS winners and five are suited for Illinois - three vegetables and two flowers.

• Echalion, Creme Brulee (Allium cepa var. Creme Brulee F1): This is the first shallot to ever be awarded the AAS Winner designation. Grown from a seed, this is a sweet tender bulb that is easy to peel and matures earlier than other shallots with only 98 days to harvest. Regional Great Lakes Vegetable Winner.
• Pepper, Pot-a-peno (Capsicum annuum var. Pot-a-peno): A compact, early maturing jalapeno perfect for containers. This green jalapeno changes to red for a sweet, spicy flavor. Time to mature is 45 to 50 days for green fruit and 60 to 65 days for red fruit. Regional Great Lakes Vegetable Winner.
• Squash, Goldilocks F1 (Cucurbita pepo var. Goldilocks): This acorn squash is vigorous, high yielding and disease tolerant. Bright orange with a rich nutty flavor and uniform shape it can be harvested in 70 to 85 days. National Vegetable Winner.
• Celosia, Kelos® Candela Pink (Celosia spicata var. Candela Pink): Like a tapered candle with showy pink plumes that keep color all season, this annual is 25- to 30-inches tall. Feed and water regularly for continued beauty. Regional Great Lakes Flower Winner.
• Zinnia, Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor (Zinnia hybrida var. Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor): This annual flower blossoms with a bold red center encircled by golden petals. As the season goes on, the colors soften into shades of apricot, salmon and rose. Compact at 8- to 14-inches tall and beautiful all season long. Great for a hanging basket or edging. Gold Medal Winner.

But don’t just stop with the 2021 winners. All-America Selections keeps a list of all past vegetables and flowers winners since its founding in 1933 on their website, all-americaselections.org.

For more information about gardening, check out the Illinois Extension website Watch Your Garden Grow at extension.illinois.edu/veggies/index or Illinois Extension Horticulture YouTube Channel go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Martha A. Smith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

A continuously connected lifestyle can drain internal batteries quickly, but digging into the world outside may be the best way to rejuvenate, revitalize and recharge.

The gadgets of gardening aren’t flashy: a shovel, pruners, hoses and bags of seeds. All are simple yet practical, and useful but not at all high-tech.

Gardener responses to a National Garden Bureau survey about why they garden hailed the health, economic, and social benefits of gardening. They also extolled the many joys found in working the land. With so many advantages to gardening, it’s not surprising the top 10 reasons are so diverse.

Garden to produce safe, healthy food

Consumers are increasingly aware of food-borne illnesses, food contamination, and the additives and preservatives found in processed food. This, coupled with interest in organic gardening, has increased the availability of organic produce.

Working out(side)

Studies show that an hour of moderate gardening can burn up to 300 calories for women and almost 400 calories for men, Mowing the grass mimics a vigorous walk. Planting requires bending and stretching, just like an exercise class. There are also devices that can help people with physical limitations enjoy the advantages of working in their garden. More information is available at go.illinois.edu/4seasonsAdaptive.

A thing of beauty

A well-tended garden enhances any setting of any size, and provides a pleasurable vista, and trees and shrubs provide color and shade, as well as shelter for birds and wildlife. More information about small space gardening is available at go.illinois.edu/SmallSpaceGardens.

Garden to learn

Gardening helps individuals learn by doing while building knowledge, gardening expertise and problem-solving skills. Gardeners find that the more they learn, the more they want to know.

Garden to earn

The love of plants can lead to anything from a job at a local garden center to owning a landscape business. Gardeners also can sell their products at local farmers markets or craft show, and landscaping projects can increase property values by up to 15%.

Sharing knowledge, broadening horizons

Gardeners love to share their gardens and their knowledge, thus expanding their social circle. Even during a pandemic, meetups with other gardeners can take place in socially distanced environments or online, and provides a way to gather information, ask questions and get involved.

Tapping into creativity

For many, gardening is an outlet for inspiration and artistic expression. Attention to design can produce everything from the serene, contemplative mood of a Japanese garden to the romantic feel of an English cottage.

Gardening to win

If you’ve got a competitive streak, gardening may be a friendly way to show off your skills. County and state fairs provide opportunities for adults and children to show off their skills as they grow giant pumpkins, beautiful bountiful beans or the perfect zinnia.

Benefits to emotional health

Gardens play an important part in our wellbeing. A garden may serve as a tranquil retreat or private escape from the demands of your daily life. A healthy harvest provides a sense of achievement and feelings of success. Gardening builds confidence and self-esteem.

Grow lasting memories

Gardening is an intergenerational activity that’s appropriate for all ages. Memories of your garden and gardening with you may help motivate young horticulturists to become the master gardeners of tomorrow. Find ideas about cultivating the next generation of gardeners at go.illinois.edu/GardeningWithKids. Each year, as they harvest their own crops, they’ll recall the sweetness of your cherry tomatoes or the beauty of the hydrangeas that you cultivated together.

That’s one of greatest gifts that a garden can give.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. 

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Ron Wolford, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Cloudy, cold winter days may seem endless, but as the weather warms, bulbs will bloom and grass will green, giving way to sure signs of spring.

Grab your trowel and get ready. Spring is just days away.

Starting seeds

Keep in mind how last year the pandemic saw new gardeners flood garden centers and increase demand for products sold by online seed companies. Buy your summer-flowering bulbs, seeds and transplants early. Last year, many seeds and transplants were in short supply or out of stock. This spring, order your seeds early and purchase your transplants as soon as they are available.

It’s also important to avoid damping-off disease when starting seeds. Damping-off will cause seedlings to wilt and die. Use a pasteurized soil-less medium. Keep the temperature around 65 to70 degrees Fahrenheit for best germination and provide bottom heat if possible. Most of all, avoid overwatering. 

Soil preparation

Prepare the soil before planting. This means removing rocks and debris form the soil. Dig in a 2- to 4- inch layer of organic matter, which helps to breakdown heavy clay soils and improves drainage.

Never work your soil when it is wet. Tilling or digging when the soil is wet will cause it to dry into concrete-like clods.

Pick up a handful of soil before digging and squeeze. If it crumbles easily, it is ready to be dug. If it doesn't, it is too wet. Allow the soil to dry for a couple of more days and test again before digging.

Late spring frosts

Be prepared for late spring frosts. Cover tender plants with row covers, cardboard, blankets, hot caps, or newspaper. Do not use metal or plastic for protection, because these can conduct cold to plants.

We have had frost close to Memorial Day in Illinois. The latest spring frost occurred in Rockford on May 27, 1992.

The growing season between the last spring frost and the first fall frost ranges from around 160 days to 190 days from northern to southern Illinois.

Transplanting

Buy healthy transplants. Leaves and stems should be green and healthy without any signs of yellowing or browning. Gently remove transplants from their pot and check the root system. Roots should be white with visible soil. Check for insects such as whiteflies or aphids. 

Harden off transplants. Before exposing transplants to cool, spring temperatures, wind and sun, gradually introduce them to the outdoor environment over a 10-to-14-day period. At first, place the transplants in a shaded area for a couple of hours. Gradually increase their exposure to sunlight each day until they are outdoors for 24 to 48 hours before planting.

Perennials and ornamentals

Divide perennials. Dig around the plant and lift the clump out of the ground. Break the clump into sections. Larger sections will re-establish quicker than smaller sections. Keep the clumps moist until ready to plant. 

Cut back. Cut back ornamental grasses to about 4 to 6 inches. Not removing the foliage will delay the warming of the crown of the plant and will slow new growth. Ornamental grasses should be divided in the spring if the center of the plant has died out or if it has become overgrown.

For more information on bulbs, perennials, seeds or transplants, check out these Illinois Extension resources: 

• go.illinois.edu/BulbInfo
• go.illinois.edu/Perennials
• go.illinois.edu/StartingSeeds
• go.illinois.edu/GrowTransplants

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension 

It may seem too early to think about the harvest, but across Illinois, gardeners are anticipating the time that they can get ever-popular vegetables like broccoli, onion, and kale into the ground. 

These and other hardy vegetables can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Typically, this occurs from mid-March to early April. Less frost tolerant vegetables can be planted soon after. 

Gardeners should schedule their planting dates based on crop hardiness and days to maturity. Hardy vegetables can be planted in the spring, four to six weeks before the average frost-free date (32 degrees Fahrenheit.). Half-hardy or frost tolerant vegetables can be planted two to three weeks before spring’s frost-free date. Some vegetables that are quicker to mature can also be planted in late summer for a fall harvest.  

Keep in mind that frost-free dates are averages. Actual dates will vary each year. Growers can provide additional protection by planting one to two weeks later in the spring to avoid late season frost. In the fall, plant one to two weeks early for protection against an early frost. You can also cover plants to protect against early or late season frost.  

The Illinois State Water Survey has information about your local spring and fall frost-free dates 

Hardy vegetables

Hardy vegetables can be planted four to six weeks before the average frost-free date, or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. A few can be planted again in late August to early September for a successful fall harvest. 

• Broccoli* 
• Brussels Sprouts 
• Cabbage* 
• Garlic* (best planted in fall)  
• Kale* 
• Kohlrabi* 
• Leek* 
• Onion 
• Pea 
• Rutabaga* (needs 100 days) 
• Spinach* 
• Turnip* 

*Can be planted for fall harvest. 

Half-hardy vegetables

In Illinois, half-hardy vegetables can typically be planted from late-March to early May. Most of these crops can be planted again in mid-July to early September. Potato and parsnip are the exception, and best planted in the spring.  

• Beet 
• Carrot 
• Cauliflower 
• Chinese Cabbage 
• Lettuce, leaf 
• Mustard 
• Parsnip 
• Potato 
• Radish  
• Swiss Chard 

In addition to knowing when to plant these vegetables, it’s important to know how to select, plant and harvest them. Root crops, broccoli, and leafy greens each require special consideration. 

Root crops 

Root crops require well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Directly sow seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Prepare a shallow trench/row and spread a pinch of seed along the row. Once seedlings are 1 or 2 inches tall, thin them to the correct spacing, typically 1 to 4 inches apart, depending on the vegetable. Harvest by pulling the plants from the ground and trimming off the tops when necessary. Beet tops can be eaten along with the sprouts that were thinned out. 

Brassica (Broccoli-family crops) 

Plant by direct seeding or by using transplants. Transplants are preferred with many Brassica crops as they establish faster and mature earlier. Harvest these crops at the right time based on the edible part of the plant by following instructions on the seed packet or plant label. For broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, harvest once head forms. Timing is essential because vegetables can easily become over-mature, e.g., when broccoli begins to flower. For kale and collards, harvest the outer, mature leaves. This allows for continual harvest from summer to fall. 

Leafy greens 

You will want to direct seed most leafy greens because it is more economical. Lettuce and Swiss chard can be transplanted, but spinach, mustard, and turnip are best direct-seeded. Consider succession planting. This means planting in two-to-three-week intervals to yield a more useable harvest over a longer period.  

Most leafy greens are fast maturing. Leaves should be harvested when young and tender and can be harvested as baby leaves. Typically, lettuce and mustard are ready to harvest from seed in just 30 to 40 days. Harvest by cutting whole plant or harvest individual, outer leaves. 

General vegetable gardening tips 

• Prepare the soil well and fertilize as needed. 
• Incorporate organic matter into the soil annually. 
• Choose disease-resistant plants. 
• Purchase fresh seed. 
• Provide consistent moisture during germination period. 
• Plant and harvest at the proper time. 
• Provide proper post-planting care. 
• Water deeply and less frequently (at least 1” per week).  
• Mulch with straw (free of seed heads) or shredded leaves. 
• Monitor for pest and disease. 
• Follow good sanitation practices. 
• Clean up the garden at the end of the growing season. 
• Consider planting a cover crop  

For more information about gardening, check out Illinois Extension website Watch Your Garden Grow at extension.illinois.edu/veggies or Illinois Extension Horticulture YouTube Channel go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture. 

Download this handy guide on Cool Season Vegetables. 

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.  

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Ryan Pankau, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension 

They are beautiful, tempting, and frequently for sale in Illinois garden centers, but blue spruce and Callery pear have no home in land of Lincoln landscapes. 

These two fall onto my ‘do not plant’ list. Many such ornamental plants make my list due to their invasive habit, but some are on there for generally poor performance as urban trees. 

Colorado Blue Spruce 

One such tree, the Colorado blue spruce, Picea pungens, is native to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado and several surrounding western states. Adapted to the cool, dry climate of the Rockies, it does well in more sandy and well drained soils.  

However, it is commonly sold in Illinois gardening centers. Despite its unique and beautiful, blue-green foliage, Colorado blue spruce tops my list of trees not to plant in Illinois. When planted in the Midwest, blue spruce suffers from our hot humid summers and often poorly drained soils. 

Unless blue spruce is planted in near optimal conditions for Illinois, the stresses of our climate and soils add up over time to reduce plant heath and vigor. As these trees mature, it is a sure bet they will suffer from a variety of common diseases, issues and problems.  

For information about common issues with spruce trees, check out go.illinois.edu/SpruceProblems. 

Callery Pear 

Callery pear, Pyrus calleryana, is widely planted for its ornamental value, with more than 20 cultivars available at my last count.   

The plant certainly has ornamental appeal, with nearly a month or more of flower display each spring, beautiful dark green foliage and a nice pyramidal habit. A native of East Asia, Callery pear has relatively few disease or insect issues here in the U.S. However, it is highly susceptible to storm damage.   

Callery pear’s compact and pyramidal habit can be attributed to a propensity for narrow branch angles with weak attachment. At maturity, the ultimate fate for many of these trees is to peel apart in a wind or ice storm, leaving an irregular and unattractive canopy. 

On a more serious note, this species has shown increasing invasive activity over the past few decades.  While most cultivars are sterile, cross pollination between the many commonly planted varieties has created fertile fruits.  As birds eat and disseminate these fruits, new pear trees pop up all over the place.   

From fence rows to highway right of ways, to edges of our yards or local natural areas, you can see Callery pear on nearly any drive around central Illinois when it is in flower. 

It is one of the only woody species to have white, abundant flowers during its bloom time in early spring, making it easily identifiable.  

Callery pear is yet another plant that I would argue has great ornamental value, like the blue spruce. However, vulnerability to storm damage can limit its longevity in the landscape and when you combine that with the threat to natural areas it poses as an invasive species, it’s just a tree that we all need to stop planting. 

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. 

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Chris Enroth, Extension Educator

Gardeners facing the aftermath of a hard winter often find themselves staring at problematic raised beds with soil that seems to have shrunk since the first frost.

Many gardeners remember building and planting their first raised beds. Without a doubt, the plants grow exceptionally well. Root crops are a breeze and weeds almost non-existent.

Then after the first winter, they inspect the beds only to find boards are starting to bow, weeds have begun to sprout and soil levels have dropped significantly.

Tackle soil problems

It is especially important to care for the soil in raised beds, and there are many methods of mixing soil and organic material to create that perfect raised bed fill. But even the best of gardeners will need to refresh the raised bed eventually. I thought I was done hauling wheelbarrow loads of dirt, but settling soil is simply a fact of raised bed gardening.

Annually, topdressing with a few inches of compost or high-quality topsoil into our raised beds should be enough to keep up with the settling soil level. But occasionally a raised bed demands more significant attention to its soil structure.

Most raised beds are filled with some type of compost and topsoil mixture. For newly built raised beds, there is little soil structure to this freshly installed fill material. It is due to this poor structure and frequent disturbance by the gardener, that raised bed soils tend to settle.

Cover crops, tilling and weed management

One way to help build structure is to sow cover crops in the offseason. That way roots consistently inhabit the raised bed soil, which helps to build the soil structure. While cover crops won’t halt raised beds from settling it will slow the process and build a vibrant medium for your garden to grow.

Tilling has its place in gardening but can be overdone. Typically, I recommend gardeners till new raised beds, if necessary, to mix the different fill components. Tilling can also be useful if you need to make some significant amendments in the future. However, avoid tilling your raised bed once it is established as tilling can destroy the developing soil structure of your raised bed and speed up the settling process.

While often raised beds start weed-free, over time weed seeds will find their way into the garden. Mulching the raised bed can be combined with topdressing to help suppress germinating weed seeds. Mulch can come in a variety of forms. Typically, vegetables gardeners use mulch that can decompose such as straw or arborist wood chips.

Though raised beds require maintenance, and while it may require getting out that wheelbarrow, the effort can be worth it for improved growing conditions and easier access.

Illinois Extension features information on caring for soil at go.illinois.edu/GoodGardenSoil, and a detailed how-to on raised bed gardening at go.illinois.edu/HORTRaisedBeds. Off season cover crops are covered in depth at go.illinois.edu/OffSeasonCover.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, Extension Educator, Illinois Extension 

Spring brings thoughts of beautiful, colorful, fragrant blooms that brighten up our landscapes after a long winter.  

But we aren't the only ones on the lookout for flowers. Pollinators are looking for them also. Heirloom flowers provide these pollinators with more of the resources they require. 

Heirloom vs. Hybrid 

Hybrids are a cross between two types that create specific traits such as flower shape, color, the height of the plant, or disease resistance. These varieties are very uniform in the first season of growth. Seeds saved from those first plants develop into plants with much more variation.   

Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated. These flowers stay true to type if another variety does not cross-pollinate them. If you plan to save seed from your heirloom flowers, plant other varieties of the same plant at least 3 feet away from each other. Plant them closer together to experiment with creating your own varieties.   

Benefits of heirloom flowers 

If you are looking to create a pollinator-friendly flower garden, heirloom varieties are a good choice. They often produce more pollen and are a nectar food source for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Plant in groups to make your garden even more attractive to pollinators.   

Heirloom varieties are also known to have more fragrance than modern hybrids. You may notice that old-fashioned roses and sweet peas have more scent than newer varieties. Finding unique bloom color that varies from the current trend is also possible with heirloom varieties.   

Because heirloom varieties are usually taller, they are excellent for cutting gardens. These beautiful blooms can brighten up a room. Since they grow taller, supporting them with stakes is a good idea.   

Heirloom annuals for your flower garden 

Here are some heirloom annuals that can be planted directly into your garden. Not only will they produce an abundance of blooms, but they will also provide much-needed resources for pollinators.   

• Sweet peas, Lathyrus odoratus, have beautiful, colorful, fragrant blooms. This vining plant does best in cool weather and is one of the first blooming annuals in the garden. Harvesting flowers will encourage more bloom growth. They will produce blooms until the heat of summer. Look for old-fashioned heirloom varieties for the best sweet pea fragrance. 
• Bachelor's buttons or cornflowers, Centaurea cyanus, are hardy annuals that self-sow. These pretty little blooms are great for a flower bed or as an addition to cut flower bouquets. They range in color from white to blue to burgundy. Bachelor's Buttons are a lovely flower to add to a cottage-type garden.   
• Cosmos, Cosmos bipinnatus, are delicate-looking flowers but are drought tolerant and prefer poor soils. Varieties vary in color from white, pink, burgundy, yellow, and orange. These beautiful blooms are lovely bouquets. This cut and come again plant will produce flowers from summer to fall. 
• Four o'clocks, Mirabilis jalapa, are easy to grow from seed. These flowers open in the cooler temperature of the evening. These trumpet-shaped blooms have a lemony-sweet scent that attracts hummingbirds and moths. Flowers can be white, yellow, and magenta with stripes or splashes of colors on the petals.   

For more details on growing flowers and pollinators, contact your local extension office at extension.illinois.edu/global/Where-We-Serve. For more garden tips, check out the Illinois Extension Horticulture website at go.illinois.edu/exthorticulture.  

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.  

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!  

By Kelly Allsup, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

When victory gardens returned last spring, long gone were acre plots with rows and rows of vegetables.

Instead, a new generation of gardeners emerged, interested in home cooking and food access. They grew herbs and small-scale varieties in backyard strips, patios, or balconies.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, 16 million people, many under the age of 35, started gardening, according to the Garden Media Group.

We expect these new gardeners will continue growing in 2021. Most will likely be growing their own vegetables, fruits, and herbs in small spaces like raised beds, containers, and grow bags. 

Produce from lettuces to peppers can be grown successfully in a variety of containers and gardeners are only limited by their imagination, willingness to experiment, and availability of drainage holes. Whether choosing standard patio containers or fabric grow bags, each vegetable has unique minimum size needs.

For example, tomatoes need a container that is at least 20” in diameter at the top, while leafy greens only need a 10” diameter container.

The diameter of the top of the container is the “Minimal Pot Size.” Container heights are usually categorized as “standard” or “azalea." Azalea pots are shorter and ideal for plants with minimal roots such as herbs. When in doubt, standard pots are recommended for growing vegetables and are readily available at garden centers.

Container sizes and Soil Volume Recommendations for Common Plants

Minimal pot size

• Tomatoes >20”
• Peppers >16”
• Carrots >12”
• Radish, Onion, Beets, Leafy Greens, Herbs and Flowers > 10”

Soil Volume by pot size

• 10" = 3 gallon
• 12" = 5 gallon
• 14" = 7 gallon
• 16" = 10 gallon
• 18" = 15 gallon
• 24" = 25 gallons
• 30" = 30 gal.

Containers do well with spinach, Swiss chard, beets, kohlrabi, kale, eggplant, peppers, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, and herbs such as cilantro and basil.

Container Friendly Vegetables

We’ve learned that some vegetables, tomatoes and squash for example, are not well suited for containers. But the green industry has created smaller varieties that can grow in smaller soil volumes.

Many of these container suitable vegetables may need to be ordered as seeds from garden catalogs, but some may be available as transplants in local garden centers. 

• ‘Micro Tom’ tomato
• ‘Dwarf Yellow Crookneck’ squash
• ‘Romeo’
• ‘Short Stuff’ carrots
• ‘Baby Ball’ beets
• ‘Mexican Miniature’ watermelon
• ‘Striped Guadeloupe Fairy Tale’ baby eggplant
• ‘Tom Thumb’ peas
• ‘Mini White’ cucumbers
• ‘Kitchen Minis’ bell peppers and tomatoes
• ‘Huckleberry’ potatoes.

Container Friendly Fruits

Bushel and Berry is a series of berries described as “patio perfect.” They grow shorter but may have cold hardiness issues. It includes a ‘Raspberry Shortcake’, which fruits in late June, and ‘Baby Cakes Blackberry’, which produces a crop its first year in September and its second year in July.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Jennifer Fishburn, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Culinary herbs can add variety and splashes of color to any deck, balcony or patio, making them an excellent option for many small space gardeners.

These plants add a variety of color to the landscape and are good filler plants in perennial and herb gardens. In addition, herbs will add flavor to your favorite food dish, and many are a source of pollen and nectar for pollinating insects. Planting a container garden can be fun, adding variety, fragrance and a splash of color to a deck, balcony, patio or any small space.

A container is anything that will hold growing media and has drainage holes, which are important because they prevent root rot.

Herbs in containers can be planted alone or mixed with annual flowers or vegetables. Place containers where plants will receive full sun.

For some fun, pick a theme for your container:

• Chocolate-covered strawberries: chocolate mint and a strawberry plant. 
• Lemon drop:  lemon basil, golden lemon thyme, lemongrass, lemon balm, and lemon verbena.
• Pizza garden: oregano, sage, thyme, marjoram, and winter savory.
• Kitchen corner: thyme, lavender, sage, oregano, parsley, rosemary, and chives.

Select a container large enough to allow space for root growth. For good root growth, most herb plants will need a soil depth of 6 to 8 inches. Taller plants such as dill and fennel need at least a depth of 10 inches. A 12-inch container will hold about three or four herb plants while a 15-inch container can support about five or six plants.

A good quality potting media should be sterile and should retain moisture and allow for aeration. Plants in containers will need fertilizer throughout the growing season, so purchasing a potting media with slow-release fertilizer is a good idea. Or use a soluble complete fertilizer after planting.

Be sure to apply soluble fertilizers at a low application rate. Too much fertilizer will cause herb plants to grow quickly, reducing flavor and aroma. 

Drought tolerant herbs do particularly well in containers, and tender perennial herbs such as rosemary are good choices as well. Plants with a trailing habit look nice cascading over the edge of a pot. You can also plant herbs and vegetables together.

The most important thing to remember is that container gardens must be watered. The most common problem with container gardens is under or over watering. Over-watering may cause root rot, fungal problems or fungus gnats. Symptoms of over-watering include wilting and reduced growth. Under-watering symptoms include wilting and scorching. As with over-watering, repeated wilting will stunt growth.

To properly water, apply water until it runs out the drainage holes. Containers dry out quickly so check containers at least twice a day on hot, dry, windy days.

Harvest herbs regularly to keep the plant growth compact and bushy. Herb plants are easy to maintain, can grow in almost any full sun location and give gardeners the satisfaction of eating the fruits of their labor.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Gemini Bhalsod, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Those who love wildflowers, gardening, or an have an expansive lawn may want to plant a native plant garden this year.

But you don’t need a huge space to incorporate native plants into your existing environment.

Illinois native plants are not only beautiful, but they also support pollinators and have environmental benefit. There are many low maintenance options that will work great for you.

Planning is key

Planning and design are an important first step towards designing a successful garden. And though the cold is currently upon us, it’s never too early to begin thinking about the warmer days ahead.

We usually think about installing, planting, and enjoying our gardens, but I encourage you to spend time this winter and early spring planning your native gardens. By making note of your garden’s conditions, you can choose plants that are most likely to thrive.

First, pay close attention to sun and soil, considering whether you want to plant your new garden bed in full sun, part sun, or shade. Determine the condition of your soil. Is it usually wet with poor drainage? Illinois Extension resources can help you understand more about what you will need for success.

Say goodbye to existing vegetation

Be sure to kill off any existing vegetation, such as turf and weeds. My favorite eco-friendly way to kill existing vegetation is to use a weighed-down tarp or layers of wet cardboard and newspaper. You can just remove the tarp and plant directly in the soil after a few months, or put fresh soil and mulch on the cardboard and plant immediately. The materials will eventually break down.

When selecting plants and designing, keep these things in mind for success:

• Select Illinois native species from your region.
• Look for straight species, not cultivars, for the greatest wildlife benefit.
• Choose locally grown plants when possible.
• Determine the size of the plant you need to purchase (seeds, plugs, quarts, or gallons). The more the roots are developed, the easier the plant is to establish
• Choose plants with four-season interest and aim for continuous blooms throughout the spring, summer, and fall.
• Plant in groupings of three or five plants.
• Layer plants for more dimension: trees, shrubs, grasses, forbs, and ground covers
• Install edging for a well-managed look. Native gardens don’t all need to look like prairies!
• You don’t have to plant all or nothing, mix natives and non-natives into your landscape.
• Keep low growing plants in front of windows to keep a nice view

For more information, watch Illinois Extension’s Good Growing webcast about native plants at go.illinois.edu/hortvideonatives.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Mary Fischer, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Gardeners who look forward to enjoying their landscapes during warm summer nights should consider creating a moonlight garden to extends the experience late into the evening.

Moonlight gardens have been around for centuries. There’s something about a beautiful garden illuminated by moonlight that engages the senses in a different way.

It’s not difficult to create a moonlight garden, provided the designer takes care to focus on specific elements.

Site selection

First, determine where moonlight typically falls, and consider existing objects or plantings that occupy the space. These could block out moonlight through the shadows they cast. Consider views from within the home. These should be as unhindered as possible.

Install low-output artificial night lighting. Hardware stores and home centers offer inexpensive lighting kits, and solar lights can offer subtle illumination to specific garden areas. Reflective items such as mirrors add ambiance and a perception that the space is larger.

Consider a water feature, which provides relaxing sounds and can be illuminated for interest as well.

Plant Selection

Fragrant plants add charm and romance, something gardeners have recognized for centuries. Archeologists discovered ruins of a lost garden at the Taj Mahal that contained night-blooming white flowers that perfumed the evening air.

Consider plants that sparkle or glimmer in moonlight or in subtle lighting. Make sure to include plants that have light colored or white blossoms and light or silver-gray foliage. Add evergreen plants, since these provide the garden with structure in winter, and vividly contrast with white flowers and light-colored foliage.

Suggested annuals, perennials, and other plants

White-blooming annual varieties include ageratum, begonias, cosmos, daisies, dianthus, impatiens, marigolds, pansies, spider flower, violas, and zinnias. White-scented annuals include alyssum, petunias, night phlox, stock and flowering tobacco.

White or light-colored perennial varieties include asters, bellflowers, bugbane, candytuft, dahlias, Shasta daisies, daylilies, foamflower, foxglove, irises, mums, peonies, creeping phlox, and violets. White-scented perennials may include peonies and roses.

Designers should also look for trees and shrubs that have white flowers, and include bulbs such as crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, lily-of-the-valley, snowdrops, and tulips. And remember vines, which can add vertical interest, as well as light and depth to the space.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator

Those thinking green this holiday season may want to skip the tree lot and consider buying a living evergreen to plant outside after Christmas.

Buying the tree is the easiest part. Caring for it to ensure the tree lasts for years to come is a little more complicated.

Live evergreen trees can be purchased from nurseries either with the roots and soil balled and burlapped, also known as B&B, or in a container. B&B trees will be heavier and a little more awkward to handle than a container-grown tree which uses a light soil mix.

Unlike cut trees, living trees should remain outside until just before Christmas to keep it dormant. Find a shady location or store it on the north side of a building away from direct sunlight.

This is also a good time to pick a roomy spot for the tree’s permanent home. Evergreen branches will be at least 12 to 15 feet wide at the base and unless it’s smaller stature variety, trees can easily be at least 35 feet tall. Layer one or two bales of straw 6 to 8 inches deep over the site to keep the soil from freezing deeply.

Timing for moving the tree indoors and then planting it outdoors is critical.

Trees should only be inside for four to five days total. Otherwise, they may begin to break their winter dormancy and actually start to grow indoors.

Keeping the tree’s root ball or container moist before it is planted is important.

Container-grown trees have very efficient drainage and should be checked daily to make sure that the soil is moist. Place a large saucer underneath the container and water the tree evenly and just enough so a little water collects in the saucer.

B&B plants have heavier soil, which holds more moisture but needs more preparation. Use a large watertight container, such as a reusable plastic tub or large pot, filled with moist potting soil or shredded peat moss to support and insulate the root ball.

Once inside where the air is drier, check moisture levels daily.

If the living tree is shorter than a typical cut tree, consider elevating it on a stable structure, such as cement blocks. The tree is out of reach of pets and there is more room underneath for presents.

When the tree is ready to be planted, move the straw and dig a shallow hole that is at least 12 inches wider than the ball or container to give the roots room. Remove the burlap or container and any rope or twine. The root flare, where the base of the trunk starts to flare out, should be at ground level or slightly higher.

Water the newly planted tree well and use the straw to mulch it, which will slow the ground from freezing and allow the roots to acclimate.

When spring comes, plan on watering it regularly to supplement the rain as needed, especially during dry summer months.

By Ken Johnson, Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator

Miniature living evergreen trees, often decked out with bells and bows, are a common decoration or gift during the holidays. With proper care these Norfolk Island pine trees can last for years as beautiful houseplants.

Despite their name, these evergreens are not actually pine trees. Instead, they belong to the ancient plant family Araucariaceae, which were widespread during the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods but are now confined to the southern hemisphere. 

In their native habitat on Norfolk Island, which is in the South Pacific, these evergreens can reach heights of up to 200 feet and have trunks up to 10 feet in diameter. European explorer James Cook arrived at the island in 1774. With the trees’ long, straight trunks, Cook believed the island’s evergreens could be used to make ship masts.

Ever since, Norfolk Island pines have been transported around the world. They can be found growing in humid coastal areas in many countries, including the U.S.

In addition to being used as an ornamental plant, their wood is used for construction, woodturning, and crafts.

As houseplants, Norfolk Island pines grow slowly, about 3 to 6 inches a year and they typically will reach heights of 6 to 8 feet, although they can grow taller. 

The key to maintaining any healthy houseplant is to mimic its native environment as closely as possible.
Homes tend to be dry, especially in winter, so it is important to take steps to increase the humidity around plants. This can be done by misting plants, using a humidifier, or making a humid microclimate.

Fill a saucer with rocks and add water until the rocks are slightly above the water line; then place the plant on top of the rocks. While Norfolk Island pines like moist conditions, if the plant is overwatered or has wet feet it can lose branches. Allow the soil to dry between waterings and make sure the pot has drainage holes. 
A diluted liquid houseplant fertilizer can be used every two weeks while they are actively growing, typically from March to September.

Norfolk Island pines enjoy bright locations, but they can tolerate lower light conditions once they have been acclimated. If plants are not allowed to acclimate, entire branches may yellow and die. In low light conditions, branches become long and droopy, and growth will slow. Turn the plant occasionally so it receives adequate light and grows evenly and straight.

With proper care, a holiday Norfolk Pine tree will last for years to come.

By Ron Wolford, Illinois Extension horticulture educator

From pre-lit artificial trees to potted living evergreens, the holidays have more tree options than ever, but for some only a visit to the tree lot or farm will do. 

Visiting a Christmas tree farm, garden center, or pop-up lot and choosing a real tree is a family tradition for many. Keeping that tree fresh throughout the holiday season is a lot easier with some pre-visit planning.

The first step is to find the perfect spot. Pick a location away from heat sources, such as spaces heaters, fireplaces, TVs, radiators and air vents to avoid drying out the tree and creating a safety hazard. 

Next, measure the height and width of the space in the room where the tree will be placed. There is nothing worse than bringing a tree indoors only to find it's too tall. Take a tape measure with you to the farm or the tree lot.

If the tree will be displayed in front of a large window, choose one that looks as good as possible from all angles. If the tree is against a wall, a tree with three good sides is a great option, while a tree with two good sides would work well in a corner. 

Keep in mind, the more picture-perfect a tree is, the more expensive it will be.

When choosing a tree, look for a healthy green specimen with few browning needles. The needles should be flexible and not fall off easily. Raise the tree a few inches off the ground and drop it on the trunk end. It is normal for a few inner brown needles to fall, but very few green needles should drop off the tree. 

Make sure the trunk or base of the tree is straight and long enough so that it will fit easily into the stand after making additional trunk cuts. When buying a tree from a retail lot, Wolford recommends going during the day to get a better view. 

If you’re not putting it up right away, store the tree in an unheated garage or some other area out of the wind. Make a fresh 1-inch cut on the end and place the tree in a bucket of warm water.

Before moving the tree indoors, check for any bird nests or insect egg masses. Cut another 1-inch slice off the stump and place the tree in a sturdy stand with water. Commercially prepared mixes, sugar, aspirin, or other water additives are not necessary. Research has shown that plain water will keep a tree fresh. 

The stand’s water reservoir should provide one quart of water for every inch of trunk diameter. Keep the water level several inches above the cut. If the base dries out, resin will cover the cut preventing the tree from absorbing water. 

After the holidays, consider rehoming the tree. Many communities offer a recycling program with trees going on to provide habitat for wildlife, enrichment for zoo animals or to create erosion barriers. 

For more information about trees selection and care, visit go.illinois.edu/ChristmasTreeCare.

By Martha Smith, University of Illinois Horticulture Educator

As constant as the New Year’s Eve ball drop in New York City, every year the Perennial Plant Association presents its plant of the year. Its 2021 choice is calamint, a sun-loving, low-growing bushy perennial with long-lasting blooms that benefit pollinators.

Since 1990, Perennial Plant Association members have voted for a standout perennial to showcase annually. These plants are always low maintenance with multiple-season interest and are suitable for a wide range of growing climates according to the association.

Calamint, Calamintha nepeta subsp. Nepeta, is a member of the mint family and is an excellent companion for an herb garden, does great in containers and is lovely cascading over low retaining walls

It is low maintenance, undemanding and dependable and is the perfect companion for other summer bloomers and foliage.

With tiny white flowers sometimes touched with pale blue from early summer until frost, calamint supports bees, butterflies and other pollinators while its aromatic foliage is deer resistant.

Native from southern Europe to Great Britain, calamint prefers full sun and will tolerate partial afternoon shade. It does best in soils with good drainage but once established it can be drought tolerant. Plants grow up to 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and work well as an edge planting.

It is a favorite in stylized meadows, matrix plantings and other modern perennial designs. Gardeners can also create a lovely monochromatic garden with past plants of the year such as Anemone xhybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ and Phlox paniculata ‘David’, or complemented with ornamental grasses such as switchgrass, Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’, or little bluestem, Schyzacharium scoparium. 

Gardeners may have noticed that the scientific name of calamint refers to a sub-species, subsp., instead of a plant variety, var. The difference is a matter of taxonomic semantics. The two terms are interchangeable according to the International Association for Plant Taxonomy. Much like the metric vs. imperial systems of measurement, European plant taxonomists use subspecies while North American taxonomists prefer variety.

Calamint is easily started from seed. It may spread in the garden by rhizomes or self-seeding to form an interesting ground cover. Stems touching the ground may root at the nodes.

Shear or cut back plants after flowering to tidy the planting, to remove unsightly foliage or to prevent any unwanted self-seeding.

To see calamint in its full glory, visit Lurie Garden in Chicago where it is planted in several areas. 

By Brittnay Haag, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

The tradition of giving flowers to family and friends to express affection on Valentines’ Day began centuries ago. Give your loved one a gift this year with blooms that can be enjoyed long after February 14.

Blooming houseplants are great alternatives to traditional bouquets of cut flowers. With a little care and maintenance, these plants can thrive in your house or office and rebloom multiple times.

Kalanchoe

This waxy leafed succulent is low maintenance and has colorful blooms. Kalanchoe flowers can be red, pink, yellow or white. Cut off the blooms once they are faded to encourage new buds to form. The soil should dry out between watering, as this plant can be easily overwatered.

Kalanchoe grows best in bright, indirect sunlight and may get leggy in low light conditions. It can also be easily propagated by stem or leaf cuttings to create new plants. Place the plant outside in the summer to grow and bring them inside before the first frost. They will develop flower buds in response to the long nights of fall.

Cyclamen

These heart-shaped leaved plants have unique foliage and showstopper flowers that can bloom for four to six weeks. Flowers can be a variety of shades of red, pink and white. Water cyclamens at the base of the plant when it dries out, soaking the soil until water flows out the bottom drainage holes. Cyclamens grow best in bright, indirect sunlight and thrive in cooler temperatures, 55°F to 60°F.

Cyclamens will go dormant after they bloom with foliage yellowing and dying down to the soil. Remove the dried foliage and place the container in a cool, dark place for two months. After the dormancy period, resume watering and add cyclamen bulbs to a new container of soil and place it in bright, indirect light. New foliage should start growing soon with blooms following a couple of months after.

Miniature Rose

Instead of an arrangement of cut roses that will die after a week, give someone the whole plant. Delicate miniature rose buds can be found in red, pink, or white and can be deadheaded to encourage new blooms. When grown indoors, roses need bright sunlight in a south-facing window and constant temperatures ranging from 60°F to 75°F. Lightly mist the foliage daily to maintain humidity levels.

They can be planted outdoors in a container or the ground in the summer but bring them inside before the first frost. Most miniature roses will go dormant in the winter and begin to grow again in the spring.

Orchid

Many orchid species grow well indoors. Phalaenopsis are commonly found in stores and the easiest to care for. While orchids can be a challenge to rebloom, they will if placed in a window with bright, indirect light.

Orchids also need a good source of humidity. They do well in the kitchen, a bathroom or on a tray of gravel and water. Water orchids weekly with collected rainwater or distilled water until water flows out the drainage holes and fills the tray below. Allow it to dry out between watering. Mist the plant frequently to maintain the surrounding humidity levels. 

Or, if you are looking for something a little more unique, give a potted Venus flytrap, sensitive plant, air plant, or succulent.

Visit Illinois Extension's website at extension.illinois.edu/global/horticulture for more information about houseplant care and maintenance.

By Bruce Black, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Winter is a time for togetherness and rest before spring. It’s also a great time to look ahead and make plans for new garden ventures.

A perennial fruit garden is a great project with years of benefits. Proper planning and set up can give home gardeners decades worth of fresh produce.

Begin by looking at the landscape and deciding if and how much space there is for new additions. Tree fruit such as apples, peaches, and cherries need more space than small fruits such as kiwifruit, strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries. Those with limited space can consider container fruits.

Next, consider the site. Fruit plantings prefer a full-sun fertile location. Planting in an elevated or sloped site helps with water drainage and air circulation. A windbreak helps tree fruits in the winter and keeping out of low laying areas helps to avoid frost pockets.

Make sure to pick a convenient location close to a water source. If it is out of sight, gardeners may not prioritize its maintenance or prefer not to walk to a distant site in the heat of the summer.

Doing a soil test provides a baseline of nutrients and pH and amendments can made as needed for fruit crop varieties. 

Avoid areas that may have had Verticillium wilt, a soilborne fungus that can affect more than 300 plant species. Verticillium wilt reduces fruit yields, causes wilting, stunting and killing of plants. Plants may be infected for awhile before symptoms are visible. Try not to plant in areas planted with in the last three to five years with tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, melons, okra, beats or roses.

The final step of planning your fruit garden, is selecting plants. Cultivars should be adapted for USDA zone 5 or colder for Northern Illinois and zone 6 or colder for Southern Illinois. Look at local garden centers, nurseries, and national fruit stock retailers for cultivars and necessary cross-pollinator cultivars.

While researching and planning, feel free to contact the University of Illinois Extension office in your county with any questions. Master Gardener volunteers and Extension staff are happy to provide guidance and recommendations.

For more information on fruit garden planting, check out Illinois Extension’s Small Fruit Crops for the Backyard website at web.extension.illinois.edu/fruit/index.cfm for fruit specific information and cultivar recommendations.

By Andrew Holsinger, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Winter is a great time for orchard owners and fruit tree gardeners to reflect on how their trees are doing and to create a plan for the coming growing season.

When it comes to disease possibilities, tracking seasonal successes and failures helps in the long term.

Keeping a journal of activities of management and care is essential in caring for fruit trees. Using a spray guide provides a reference based on the disease and physiological state of the tree.

The most effective way to care for tree fruit diseases is for both commercial and homeowner level gardeners to know when to spray fungicides and herbicides. Often, a tree is infected long before symptoms are observed and prevention is key to tree health, especially with fungal diseases. Fungicide needs to be applied and reapplied to keep trees protected throughout the season.

Some sprays can only be applied in late winter and early spring to prevent disease before the leaves have emerged. Diseases often develop because a spray wasn’t applied.

Peach leaf curl is an example of a disease that can easily be avoided by spraying during the dormant season.

Fruit tree disease prevent starts early by choosing disease resistant varieties. Only plant top quality, healthy nursery stock to avoid failure. Trees that are stressed are more susceptible to disease and insect pressures. Controlling insects and other pests is important because any wound on trees or fruit is a possible entry point for pathogens.

These apple varieties have disease resistant characteristics and are good options for Illinois landscapes or orchards: Crimson Crisp, Dayton, Enterprise, Freedom, Golden Delicious, Gold Rush, Jonafree, Liberty, Priscilla and William’s Pride.

Also consider dwarf or semi-dwarf trees which are smaller and more easily manageable when it comes to disease control and fruit production.

Good tree sanitation is also important in preventing disease. Inspect trees for mummies, which are unpicked, withered and infected fruits that carry spores that can cause problems during the next season. Cleaning up fallen leaves and fruits after the harvest is a good practice to reduce the number of fungal spores, especially for apple scab, for next year.

Pruning is probably the most neglected aspect of disease control. Pruning allows for more air circulation, light penetration and more adequate spray coverage.

Spray schedules guides from the University of Illinois are available for both commercial and home growers at go.illinois.edu/MFPM and go.illinois.edu/PMHL.

By Kelly Allsup, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

As a child, my grandparents would send my sisters and I to the unmanaged portions of their property to pick blackberries. The plants were a gangly massive mess of thorns that produced a minimal amount of fruit. Most of the time we brought enough for grandma to make a pie with probably just as much of the sun sweetened fruits in our bellies.

Although, this was a tactic to get the grandkids out of the house, imagine if these wild berries had been pruned in late winter? We might have brought back enough for 10 pies.

Pruning backyard brambles in late winter not only increases production of fruits but also aids in disease prevention throughout the growing season.

Bushes have different pruning needs depending on their attributes. Everbearing plants need to be trimmed in late winter erect brambles need pruning in summer as well. To make pruning less intimidating, gardeners should identify the cultivar to make a plant specific plan before bringing out the loppers.

Primocanes vs. Floricanes

Blackberry and raspberry bush canes, the bramble’s stems, are a mix of primocanes and floricanes. Primocanes are vibrant green new-growth canes. These canes are not ready to produce flowers or fruit, except for fall-bearing brambles.

Floricanes are older, overwintered canes that produce flowers and fruit and can be productive for up to 20 years. These dark red stems are covered in a white bloom, which rubs off and is used by the plant as a sunscreen.

Without pruning or cutting back canes, the bush produces less fruit and can harbor disease and pests. Old fruiting structures on the plant indicate that the cane is a floricane that should be removed.

For example, on a semi-erect blackberry ‘Chester Thornless’ remove floricanes, and diseased canes until there are only six to eight of the strongest primocanes. On these branches, cut back the tip of the stem to 5 feet. The primocanes will have lateral branches that should be pruned to 18 to 24 inches long.

If pruning a thorned variety, wear gloves and long sleeves.

Roots suckering vs. hills

Root Suckering: Brambles such as yellow raspberries, erect blackberries, and the red raspberry ‘Lauren’ spread by root suckers, creating a hedge row. They are thinned by cutting canes to the ground, leaving 6 inches between canes and removing any canes outside of the row.

Hills: Brambles such as black raspberries and semi-erect blackberries do not spread by suckers and retain their individual plant-form in a “hill.” For pruning, last year’s floricanes are removed and the primocanes are headed back.

Everbearing vs. Biennial canes

Most brambles produce on biennial canes, but some are everbearing, which means it can bear fruit until the fall. Brambles such as yellow raspberry ‘Anne’ are everbearing.

If the primocanes that bore fruit in fall are left to overwinter, they will fruit again, lower on the cane in late spring and then die. By mowing down all the canes in late winter, you sacrifice the first harvest to have a more abundant harvest in the fall.

Erect and Semi-erect

Erect brambles produce stiff, upright canes that need summer and winter pruning. The erect growth habit is common in both raspberries and blackberries. These tend to not need a trellising system.

Semi-erect brambles produce thick, arching canes that benefit from winter pruning. These varieties will start growing upright and bend over to trail along the ground if not supported. Growth habit determines the type of trellis support canes require. Black raspberries tend to be semi-erect and if not pruned adequately the tips of branches will touch the ground and begin to root, limiting fruit production. The Refuge Food Forest in Normal, Ill., where I live grows black raspberry ‘Bristol’ that must be tipped during the summer or the mowers will have issues between the rows.

Pruning at Spring Planting

New plants should also be pruned to the ground when they are planted in early spring. If looking for cultivar recommendations for Illinois, visit Small Fruit Crops for the Backyard.

Most plants purchased online will come bare rooted and should be soaked in water at least 30 minutes before planting. Plants from nurseries or greenhouses may come potted up and will not require soaking

Plant new brambles 4 to 6 feet apart in a hedgerow when the soil is not wet. Hedgerows should be 10 to 12 feet apart for Illinois semi-erect varieties.

Dig a hole one and a half times wider than the root system and fan out the roots. Water immediately and at least every two to three weeks after planting. After planting, apply shredded bark mulch up to 3 inches thick away from the base of the plant. Apply fertilizer a month after planting.

By Austin Little, Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator

With the winter upon us, gardeners may be looking for a new project to keep their green thumbs active.

Growing microgreens indoors is a fun and relatively easy project to set up. It also rewards the grower with fresh tasty produce in a short time period.

Microgreens are the tender new shoots of vegetables plants which are harvested before they reach maturity.

The basic supplies to get started with microgreens are a shallow container with drainage such as a plastic tray or pie tin. Takeout containers can even work, just remember to poke some holes in the bottom for drainage. The rest of the supplies include vegetable seeds, growing medium, a light source and maybe a bit of plant food.

That’s really all you need to get a tray or two of microgreens started this winter. Although many enthusiastic hobbyists upgrade with some starting successful microgreen businesses in their homes.

Many vegetables can be grown for microgreens including mustard, kale, endive, arugula, beets, radish, watercress, peas, cabbage, basil and most kinds of lettuce. Plants in the Solanaceous or nightshade family which includes tomatoes, eggplant and peppers, should not be grown as microgreens due to toxins in the stems and foliage. 

Once seeds have been selected, the next step is to add the growing medium. The easiest way to get started is with a store bought premade potting mix or soil mixed with compost added to the container about 2 inches deep.

Since the shoots are harvested while they are immature, seeds need to be planted densely, about ¼ of an inch apart or less. After broadcasting a layer of seed, spread an additional thin layer of medium over the top to cover the seed and press down lightly to secure the seeds.

Water the soil so it is moist but not sopping wet. Some growers pre-moisten the medium before planting and then water a bit more after. Microgreens generally don’t require much added fertility, but it may help to include a small amount of water-soluble fertilizer or root stimulator nutrient solution with the first watering.  Rates for these fertilizers are low, around a teaspoon per gallon of water. 

Check the container daily to make sure the medium stays moist. Spray the medium once or twice a day or bottom water the container.  By placing the growing container in a tray with a shallow layer of water, it can slowly take up water over several days. 

Microgreens need about six to eight hours of light per day for optimal growth. A sunny south facing window is preferred. Alternatively, LED grow lights can provide the needed light. Also keep temperature in mind.  Microgreens grow best around 70°F but will tolerate down to 50°F although growing slower. A seed starting heat mat can be used if temperatures are low. 

Microgreens are ready to harvest in about 10 to 12 weeks. Take up the whole plant with the roots or cut them at the base with sharp scissors. In both cases, they need to be submerged in cold water and rinsed thoroughly. The greens can be harvested all at once and stored in the fridge or harvested as needed.

Compared to their full-grown versions, microgreens offer unique flavors. After a quick wash, you can ask them to salad or a stir-fry and on top of soups and sandwiches for a fresh crunch.

For further instructions, Illinois Extension has a recorded webinar on growing microgreens available go.illinois.edu/MicroWebinar.

By Sarah Vogel, Illinois Extension horticulture educator

Keeping houseplants is a source of satisfaction for many. But when plants are not thriving it can be concerning and confusing.

As soon as a leaf yellows or develops a brown spot, many reach for fertilizer or household pesticides, neither of which is an appropriate first response.

Yellowing, brown edges, leaf spots or drops are all symptoms something is ailing a plant and cultural or environmental conditions are often the culprit. Knowing what to look for can alleviate houseplant woes.

All species of plants have specific light, water, and soil condition needs. This houseplant care guide from University of Missouri Extension and available at go.illinois.edu/CaringForHouseplants outlines the basics of each.

Many plants go through an adjustment period whenever they are moved. This can happen whether it’s from the nursery to a home, the living room to a porch, or one window to another.

This may cause yellowing or leaf drop but the plant will eventually acclimate if in favorable conditions. If the yellowing continues longer than a few weeks, place the plant in another spot and change its watering schedule slightly.

Yellow leaves can also mean the plant is overwatered. A great way to decipher watering issues is to carefully remove the plant from its container and look at the roots.

With some exceptions, healthy plants generally have white roots. If the roots are rusty orange to light brown it is underwatered, and if the roots are dark brown to black it is overwatered.

Gently place the plant back in the container and adjust the watering schedule accordingly. If overwatering is the issue, withhold water until the soil is quite dry and gradually begin a new watering schedule. After two weeks, apply a water-soluble, houseplant-specific fertilizer. If no improvement is seen in the next two weeks, repot in fresh soil.

Yellowing may also occur if a plant needs to be fertilized. Depending on what nutrient is needed, yellowing may begin on the outer edges of leaves, or from the vein outward, or the leaf may even curl. Become familiar with the fertilization needs of each species. Occasionally a plant needs fertilization when it becomes root-bound and may simply need to be repotted into a larger container.

Leaf spots on foliage can be caused by too much sun. When spots appear consistently, move the plant to a place it receives less sun.

Leggy or stretching plants occur when they are reaching for more light. Move them to a brighter location or turn them occasionally to keep them growing evenly.

Some fungal diseases may also cause leaf spots so ensure proper circulation, remove and destroy infected plant parts, and allow soil to dry between waterings.

Brown edged leaves may indicate an erratic watering schedule or exposure to cold drafts. Another cause of brown leaf edges is an accumulation of fertilizer salts on containers. If other issues have been eliminated and the brown edges continue, scrub the edges of the pot and flush the soil with clear water.

Most common insect pests on houseplants include scale, fungus gnats, aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. If the plant is heavily infested with scale, it is best to discard it. Fungus gnats can be greatly reduced by letting the plant dry completely between waterings. Aphids can be controlled by washing away with water or using insecticidal soap. Spider mites often affect already stressed plants so keeping plants healthy is the most effective control measure. Horticultural oil or insecticidal soap may be used for spider mite infestations. Mealybugs can be wiped away with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.

When using pesticides, make sure they are labeled for indoor use and read and follow all label directions.

If the problems persist, horticulture educators and master gardener volunteers are available to provide assistance at Illinois Extension offices around the state. Local offices can be located at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

By Ken Johnson, Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator

When it comes to the most popular holiday plant the winner is surprising. With their varying shades of cheery colors, poinsettias are the bestselling potted plant in the United States and Canada.

There are more than 100 varieties of poinsettias from the traditional red plants to pink, white, yellow and purple. If taken care of properly, their bright displays can last for several weeks says Ken Johnson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

“The colored parts of the plants aren’t flowers,” Johnson says. “They are actually modified leaves called bracts.”

The greenish-yellow flowers, cyathia, are in the center of the bracts. Poinsettias will drop their bracts and leaves once their flowers have shed all their pollen. So, for long lasting poinsettias, choose plants that have little or no pollen showing in their flowers. 

One of the most longstanding myths about poinsettias is its toxicity.

“Contrary to popular belief, poinsettias are not poisonous,” Johnson says. “The misconception began in 1919 when an Army officer’s child allegedly died after eating a poinsettia leaf.”

While this was never proved and was later determined to be hearsay, the story has persisted. In fact, a study by Ohio State University showed that a 50-pound child would have to eat more than 1¼ pounds of the plant, 500 to 600 leaves, to have any harmful effects.

That being said, poinsettias may ooze a milky sap and some people that have latex allergies may have a reaction to it.  This may also cause mild irritation and nausea in pets, so it may be best to keep them away. 

Poinsettias are sensitive to extreme temperatures and cold temperatures can damage the bracts and leaves. Keep them wrapped when transporting them outside.

Once home, place poinsettias in indirect sunlight for six hours and make sure they aren’t touching windows. Poinsettias should have daytime temperatures around 60°F to 70°F and nighttime temperatures around 55°F.  Warmer temperatures will shorten the length of the poinsettias display.

Poinsettias come wrapped in foil and plastic. If left on, make sure to poke holes in the bottom so water can drain out. Water poinsettias when the soil becomes dry and discard the excess. Waterlogged plants can get root rot and die.

After the holidays, fertilize poinsettias them once a month after they are done blooming. 

For more information on poinsettias, visit go.illinois.edu/Poinsettia.

By Bruce J. Black, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

The fruits of our summer labors have been ripening, and soon, more fruits and vegetables will be ready for harvest. As gardeners, overplanting is a common problem, and it is a struggle to get the longest life out of the harvest.

“Most of us end up with more produce than we can use,” says Bruce Black, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “Neighbors, friends, coworkers, and others usually benefit from the overflow.”

The quality of harvested produce follows an 80-20 rule.

Most of what happens after it is harvested, 80%, is decided by pre-harvest factors such as genetics, environmental, and cultural factors. The remaining 20% is determined by how the produce is handled after harvest.

Home gardeners often pick specific fruit and vegetable varieties for their flavor, fresh consumption, or preservation needs. They don’t pick varieties for their built-in resistance to diseases or response to natural environmental conditions.

“Unfortunately, we have yet to figure out how to control the weather or the amount of sunlight yards receive,” Black says.

How gardeners respond to fluctuating natural conditions, such as high winds or drought, can give plants a fighting chance. These cultural responses are the things we can control: irrigation, fertilizing, pulling weeds or using pesticides, and choosing when and how to plant and harvest.

While the 80% pre-harvest factors may have more influence, the post-harvest 20% can actually make a significant difference with produce.

Tips to improve post-harvest quality and extend shelf life:

• Take care to prevent dropping, bruising, or picking injuries.
• Harvest produce during the cool part of the morning to limit heat damage. Shade fruit left outside if picking large quantities at once.
• Store similar produce together for optimum temperature and humidity requirements in refrigerator crisper drawers.
• Store ethylene producing produce (apples, melons and tomatoes) and ethylene sensitive produce (peppers, green beans, cucumbers and lettuce) separately.

Ethylene is the natural gaseous plant hormone mostly responsible for ripening. When a fruit or vegetable is injured, four things happen: increased ethylene production, increased rate of respiration, increased water loss, and the creation of an entry point for pathogens.

Taking these factors into consideration as you harvest should help your produce have a longer post-harvest life and give you time to plan how to best enjoy your harvest. Given the investment of the time, money, sweat, and even tears you put into your garden, getting extra time to savor their flavors just makes gardening sweeter.

For more information on postharvest, check out University of Illinois Extension’s Watch Your Garden Grow website.

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

As summer comes to an end, many vegetable gardeners are busy reaping what they’ve sown and harvesting the fruits of their labors. Growing your own vegetables has health, nutritional, and environmental benefits, says University of Illinois Extension Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle. 

The health benefits are exponential with the combination of nutrients, sunshine, and exercise gained through gardening. Walking, bending, lifting, and pulling movements that naturally happen in the garden fit into the moderate excise category that can increase your body's immune system function.

Certain vegetables, such as broccoli, cabbage, and brussels sprouts, produce a disease-fighting compound called sulfurane after being cut. Colorful vegetables provide antioxidants such as lycopene and beta carotene. Eating a diverse group of vegetables ensures balanced nutrition.  

“Different varieties of vegetables have different flavors,” Flowers-Kimmerle says. “Growing your own vegetables from seed allows you to choose varieties for your garden to suit your tastes.”

The flavor is also based on biochemical changes that happen to the produce once it is harvested. "The sugar in sweet corn kernels starts converting to starch as soon as the ear is harvested," Flowers-Kimmerle says. “Cook sweet corn as soon as you can for the sweetest flavor.”

Harvest timing can also affect the flavor of a vegetable. Harvesting vegetables at their peak ensures maximum flavor. Locally grown vegetables benefit the environment by reducing carbon emissions from burning fossil fuels to transport grocery store produce.

“No plastic packaging is required when you harvest vegetables straight from the garden, which also reduces fossil fuel inputs,” Flowers-Kimmerle says. Pesticide and other chemical inputs tend to be lower in small, well-tended gardens than even small farms.

When vegetable gardeners use kitchen and yard waste as compost, they keep it out of landfills and create their own soil amendment to increase the garden's productivity.

These health and environmental benefits can last even longer with cool weather plantings for a late fall harvest. Vegetables that grow well in cool weather, such as leaf lettuce, radish, spinach, and turnips, can be planted throughout August. Visit the Illinois Extension website Vegetable Garden Guide at  web.extension.illinois.edu/vegguide for planting dates.  For more information on how to start a fall vegetable garden, contact your county Illinois Extension office or visit extension.illinois.edu.  

By Jennifer Fishburn, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Winter squash is a tasty, nutritious fall treat that comes in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors, and flavors. There are hundreds of varieties available to grow and enjoy on the dinner table.

“A few of the more popular winter squash include butternut, acorn, spaghetti, and butternut,” says Jennifer Fishburn, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator serving Logan, Menard and Sangamon counties.

• Butternut squash is one of the most popular. This long, pear-shaped squash is tan, with a thin rind that is easy to cut or remove with a vegetable peeler.
• Acorn squash is a small squash that resembles an acorn and is available in a variety of skin colors, including dark green, gold, and white.
• Spaghetti squash, as its name suggests, resembles pasta strands when cooked. The strands can serve as a low-calorie, low-carbohydrate pasta substitute.

Harvesting and storing winter squash

Squash, a fruit, is generally harvested in September or October and must be harvested before a hard frost. A light frost will kill the vines, but won’t harm the fruit.

“Unlike summer squash, such as zucchini, which is harvested in the immature stage, winter squash is harvested when the fruit is mature,” Fishburn says. Their rinds are dull, dry, and hard and cannot be punctured with a fingernail. Rinds should be free of cracks and soft spots. Use caution not to injure the rind during harvest.

When cutting squash from the vine, leave a 2- to 3-inch stem. Avoid handling fruit by the stem since the weight of the fruit can cause the stem to break. Most winter squash, with exception of acorn and delicate, benefit from a curing process. To cure, place squash at a temperature of 70°F to 80°F for 10 days.

Winter squash have a long shelf life if stored properly. Acorn squash can be stored up to two months, butternut up to three months, and hubbard up to six months. Optimum storage conditions for most winter squash harvests is around 55°F with a 50% to 75% humidity in a cool, dark location with good air circulation. If possible, store squash in a single layer and keep fruit from touching each other. All winter squash except hubbards should be stored with stems attached.  

Eating winter squash

Most winter squash can be baked, boiled, or steamed. Fishburn cautions that the hard, tough rind is a challenge for most cooks.

With the exception of spaghetti squash, winter squash is often eaten as a sweet or savory side dish. Squash can be flavored simply with salt and butter or with warm fall spices, such as cinnamon, ground cloves, nutmeg, or basil and sweetened with brown sugar, maple syrup, or honey.

Squash’s dense texture holds up well in soups, stews, chili, and casseroles. The flesh can also be used in pies, muffins, and cakes.

By Chris Enroth, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Just because summer is over, doesn’t mean you have to stop gardening. Hydroponic systems allow year-round growing

The year 2020 has created a lot of new gardeners, says Chris Enroth, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. Some may have dabbled in hydroponics, the process of growing plants in a liquid nutrient solution without the use of soil.

“When it comes to gardening in the ground, it is important to manage the soil,” Enroth says. “Hydroponics shifts that focus to managing the nutrient solution. It’s not any less or more work, you’re just modifying your practices.”

What options do home gardeners have when it comes to growing plants hydroponically?

There are several at-home hydroponic systems sold by various companies. Some come with all the materials you need. Nutrients are pre-measured and applied based on the manufacturer’s instructions. Some even come with an app that walks users through the process of growing hydroponically.

While commercial at-home systems are convenient, they can be pricey

Many home hydroponic growers begin their journey with a passive system using simple plastic storage tubs with a locking lid. Choose a container that is not clear or opaque to avoid light getting to the liquid solution which will encourage algae growth.

“Cut round holes in the lid sized to suspend a netted plastic pot in the tub’s nutrient solution, but narrow enough so the lip of the pot cannot slip through,” Enroth says. ”The plant and the roots still need some type of structural support in the plastic pot. This is done with soilless media such as rock wool, perlite, coconut coir, expanded clay, or coarse sand."

An air stone attached to a pump helps inject oxygen into the solution and keeps the water moving. These can usually be found wherever aquariums are sold.

The biggest investment for an DIY hydroponics system?

This will likely be the EC, electrical conductivity, meter and pH meter. Some are priced as low as $20, while others are more than $200.

“Keep in mind this nutrient solution is your ‘soil,’ ”Enroth says. “Instead of a tiller, you are buying tools to manage your solution.”

EC meters measure the amount of salts in the solution, which gives an idea of how much nutrition is available for the plants. The pH meter measures the water’s acidity or alkalinity, which will vary by source. Most plants do well in a slightly acidic range of a 5 to 6 pH level, Enroth says.

With the EC and pH measurement readings, users can adjust the nutrient solution as needed. “I’ve often found kits that include the meters and amendments take most of the guesswork out of managing the nutrient solution,” Enroth says.

One crucial component is supplemental light. An inexpensive shop light works well, and new LED technology is promising for indoor plant production.

Plant choice is important for indoor hydroponic systems:

• No: Tomatoes, zucchini
• Yes: lettuces and herbs 

“We grew basil in our hydroponic system and it did exceptionally well,” Enroth says. “Even if you don’t eat it, we just loved brushing against the leaves as winter sets in to give us a feeling of summer.”

By Kelly Allsup, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension 

Illinois needs to plant milkweed, and a lot of it, over the next 18 years to ensure the state’s official insect, monarch butterflies, survives.  

Kelly Allsup, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, says the task of planting 150 million new milkweed stems by 2038, championed by the Illinois Monarch Project, needs public buy in.  

“Major statewide strategies,  such as updated roadside mowing guidelines, creating habitat in natural areas, and allowing it to grow in farmland not in production, may not be enough,” Allsup says. “Monarchs may need homeowners to plant a larger patches of milkweed.” 

The prairie state, as its name suggests, was once covered in grasses and flowers that were habitat and food for migrating butterflies. Development has reduced the availability of milkweeds, which is the only food source for monarch caterpillars. Monarchs (Danaus plexippus) will be considered for inclusion on the Endangered Species list in December 2020. 

Anyone can grow milkweed in their yard or garden, Allsup says. “Do you have an alley that does a good job at growing weeds? Perhaps you are ready to move on from a ditch full of daylilies, or you have an empty garden bed. One 10-square-foot garden can hold 150 stems of milkweed.” 

Harvesting and germinating milkweed seeds 

While there are a number of different species of milkweed, monarchs prefer swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), Prairie milkweed (Asclepias sullivantii), and Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata). 

“With permission from landowners, you can pick milkweed seed pods this fall rather than buying seeds or purchasing plants,” Allsup says. “Once harvested, you can either plant them in the fall or wait until spring.” 

Each pollinated milkweed flower forms one to two large teardrop-shaped green pods that turn brown or maroon as they mature.  

“Pick pods when they are dry and just starting to split open,” Allsup says “Seeds can’t germinate if they have not been allowed enough time to mature on the plant.” 

Allow pods to dry out then pry them open and separate the seeds by holding one end and stripping the seeds away from the white fluff known as floss.  

“Another way to separate the mature seeds from the floss is to place the seeds in a paper bag with a coin,” Allsup says. “Cut a hole in the bottom of the bag so the seeds fall out after a good shaking.” 

Once you’ve harvested the seeds you can plant them this fall or store seeds in a dry and cool place in a labeled paper envelope with species, date, and location to plant them in the spring.  

Milkweed seeds need to be stratified and require cool moist conditions, to germinate. Growers can accomplish this at home by placing seeds in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator for four to six weeks. Start seed germination in early April to have them ready for planting after the last frost in May. 

Steps to planting milkweed 

• Clear out any weeds or existing plants and water the soil.  
• Place germinated seeds about 12 inches apart and 1 to 2 inches deep. Tip: Plant two seeds per hole and if they both germinate, remove the weakest one.  
• Cover with moist soil.  
• Put flags or bamboo sticks near your planting holes and mulch with straw.  
• When the seedlings come up, consider transplanting or culling plants to achieve 2 foot spacing.  
• Weed aggressively every two weeks as the plants grow bigger. A fertilizer can be used when the seedlings start to grow to give them a jump start, but after that, fertilizer is generally not needed, Allsup says. 

“Milkweed gardeners can record their efforts so the Illinois Monarch Project knows if they are reaching their goal,” Allsup says. Milkweed plantings can be submitted at monarchwatch.org/waystations/#register. Illinois gardeners can also register their habitat as a Pollinator Pocket or Monarch Waystation at extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/pollinator-pockets. 

By Ken Johnson, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

As fall draws near, it’s time to bring houseplants inside for winter. Many houseplants are native to tropical and subtropical climates and do great outside in Illinois in the summer, but cannot tolerate cold temperatures.

“When temperatures drop below 55°F, it’s time to bring plants indoors,” says Ken Johnson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “Be sure you don’t also bring in unwelcome guests.”

Insects, such as aphids, whiteflies, scale, and spider mites are pests commonly found on outdoor plants. Inspect plants for any insects and other pests before bringing them indoors. Once inside, populations can rapidly increase and spread to other plants.

Before resorting to insecticides, spray foliage with a steady stream of water. “If spraying doesn’t work, insecticidal soaps can be used to eliminate soft-bodied insects,” Johnson says. "Follow label instructions.”

If plants are infested, it may be prudent to dispose of them.

In addition to the foliage, Johnson recommends checking the soil. Insects, such as earwigs and ants, will move into soil in potted plants. Flush pots with water to drive out insects. If ants are present, the plant may need to be repotted.

Over a period of about a week, gradually reduce light levels by moving plants to increasingly shadier areas. This will start to acclimate them to light conditions indoors. Once plants are indoors, put them next to the brightest, sunniest window, typically south or west facing. If you don’t have a sunny location, provide supplemental lighting.

Plants grow slower indoors, so will need less water and fertilizer. For most plants, allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, Johnson says.

“One way to check soil moisture is with your finger,” he says. “Stick your finger in your potting media up to your second knuckle. If the media is still moist, you don’t need to water.”

If the pot feels light when lifted, it may be time to water.

Plants can be watered by top or bottom. If top watering, apply enough water so that some water comes out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This may need to be done more than once if the soil is very dry. If you have a saucer under the pot, make sure to empty the water out after half an hour or so. This will allow the potting mix to absorb additional water, but prevent the mix from becoming saturated.

To water from the bottom, fill you’re a plant saucer or sink with a few inches of water and let plants soak. Once the potting mix on the top of the pot is moist, the plant can be removed from the water.

Plants often drop leaves and yellow when they are moved indoors. Increasing humidity levels around plants and providing supplemental lighting can help reduce leaf drop, Johnson says. Over time, plants will acclimate to their new environment.

By Brittnay Haag, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

As fall approaches, many perennial plants are ready to go dormant for the winter. Now is the time to start thinking about next spring’s floral display and planting spring-flowering bulbs.

Since spring bulbs need a cold period during the winter in order to bloom, the best time to plant is late September through October to allow sufficient time for a good root system to develop, says Brittnay Haag, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

“Investing a little time and money in the fall will pay off greatly next spring when you start seeing pops of color blanketing your garden,” Haag says. “Depending on the location, spring bulbs, such as snowdrops, begin blooming in late February and continue until late June with alliums.”

Bulbs should be firm and free of rotting spots or signs of disease. “When buying bulbs, keep in mind that larger bulbs will produce larger blooms,” Haag says.

If the bulbs cannot be planted immediately after purchasing, store them in a cool, dry place away from ethylene-producing fruits, such as apples, bananas, melons, pears, and peaches to prevent flowering disorders. 

For the greatest visual impact, plant bulbs in groupings and large drifts or waves of color. Mix them in with other perennials and shrubs to screen the foliage after blooms fade. To produce maximum blooms, most bulbs will need at least eight hours of sunlight daily.

Most bulbs require fertile, well-drained soil to prevent the bulb from rotting. Poorly drained soil can be improved by adding organic matter such as compost or peat moss. The material should be incorporated into the soil before planting at a rate of four-parts soil, one-part organic matter. A balanced fertilizer, 20-20-20, can also be incorporated into the soil at this time.

“The general rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to plant them two to three times the length of the bulb, measured from the bottom of the bulb,” Haag says.

Large bulbs, such as daffodils or tulips, should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep. Small bulbs, such as snowdrops and crocus, should be planted 3 to 4 inches deep. Bulbs should be spaced 6 to 12 inches apart to allow for the spread and future divisions. Plant bulbs with the nose of the bulb facing upward and the root plate facing down.

After covering the planted bulbs with soil, water the area well to settle the bulbs into the soil and initiate root development. If there is little rain in the fall, continue to water weekly until the ground freezes. A light, 2-inch layer of mulch can be added after planting to minimize effects of winter temperature fluctuations and to help converse soil moisture.

“Spring bulbs can vary in flower color, timing, height, and shape depending on the species and variety,”says Haag. “Add a new type of bulb each fall to have a beautiful mix of spring bloomers in your garden.”

Visit Illinois Extension's website for more information about spring bulb selection.

By Austin Little, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Retailer shortages of the most popular native perennial plants were common this spring as there was an unprecedented run on supplies. But fall is another great opportunity to plant, says Austin Little, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

It’s often recommended to plant herbaceous natives like butterfly milkweed or echinacea from transplants in the spring; however, planting in fall has a few more benefits than spring, such as improved establishment and flowering in the following spring, better vigor, and greater weed suppression, Little says.

Native plants are a critical part of our ecosystems and contribute to beneficial insects, birds, wildlife, and important microorganisms living in and on soils.

In the fall, soils hold onto heat longer even as above-ground temperatures are dropping, which is ideal for new root structures to grow. The root systems need time to establish new micro or feeder roots which helps the transplant to acclimate, then gradually go into dormancy as colder winter temperatures arrive. Fall transplants have better root structure and more time to acclimate to the local environment. 

Herbaceous native perennials transplants or seeds can be ordered online or from a local nursery. Plugs are easier to plant and establish quicker. They need to be planted about six weeks before the first frost of fall. In Southern Illinois, the first frost date is historically in the last two weeks of October. Northern Illinois is a week or two sooner than that, so be sure not to plant too close to the first frost.

“If direct seeding, wait until the first hard frost to apply the seed to a weed-free bed with open soil so the seedlings do not germinate prematurely,” Little says. “Most native herbaceous perennials have very small seeds and need only a thin layer of soil and mulch to undergo the chilling process known as stratification.” 

Transplants need to be thoroughly watered when they are installed. To encourage deeper root growth, it’s better to water less often but more deeply, once or twice a week for about 30 minutes depending on rain and temperature. When it’s getting close to the average first frost date, Little says it’s a good idea to back off on the water.

“Even if it warms up a bit in late fall, it’s best to hold off on watering to avoid interrupting the hardening off process,” he says.

Fertilizing in the fall is not recommended. Many native herbaceous plants are adapted to lean and low fertility soils. Adding nitrogen and other nutrients in the fall may cause the transplant to put energy into new vegetative growth that will be damaged by winter conditions and suppress the establishment of roots. Hold off on fertilizing until early spring, Little recommends

Do add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch or compost around the base of plants, making sure to leave some open space around the stems to avoid harboring unwanted pests and moisture build up. Fall plants don’t need to be mulched immediately after planting and can benefit from the sun warming the soil. Mulching can wait until night-time temperatures are in the 32°F range. By adding mulch, such as straw or finely shredded hardwood wood, and making sure plants are well anchored in the soil, frost heaving can be avoided.

Adding fall compost around any new plants is also recommended. By spring, most of the compost will be broken down and ready to be taken up by plants with root structures that have a head start on spring transplants. 

Tips for fall planting native perennials

• Order and buy plants with enough time to plant six weeks ahead of the first frost.
• Water deeply once or twice a week, then stop watering after the first hard freeze.
• Help overwinter fall transplants with mulch and compost.
• Do not fertilize new transplants until spring.

New homeowners often wonder about the value of planting shade trees when they first move in when there are so many more areas to focus on with a new home.

“Planting shade trees is an investment for the future just like other home upgrades,” says Richard Hentschel, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “A smaller, young tree will be cost effective and will increase in value along with your home as well as providing indirect benefits.”

Trees can be planted throughout the year, depending on how they were grown. Fall and spring are prime times homeowners can consider a planting project to provide the extra care and time needed during transplant recovery.

Environmentally, there are several positives that come from having shade trees in the home landscape. The recent devastation caused by the invasive Emerald Ash Borer has taught developers the need for shade tree diversity. A single tree species and its cultivars should make up no more than 20% of the urban forest in order to survive stressful environmental conditions such as repeated droughts and severe winter conditions.

“Younger trees tolerate these conditions better than older trees, so new trees need to be continually planted,” Hentschel says.  

A big benefit for human health is a tree’s ability to generate oxygen while reducing carbon dioxide in the atmosphere by collecting and storing carbon as they grow and mature. You’ve heard about industry carbon credits? Well, trees have always done this.

Shade trees also absorb water and hold soil in place, two benefits during severe weather conditions such as floods.

Trees support insect populations that create the balance of nature and are part of the natural food chain. Illinois white oaks support more than 500 insect species throughout the growing season, mostly butterflies and moths. Their caterpillars are not only the main food source for migrating and breeding birds, but also are essential food for baby birds. That shade tree supports birds, squirrels, and more wildlife by providing food and shelter.

One big benefit of shade trees for homeowners can be the long-term energy savings. An air conditioner will not work as hard or stay on as long when your house is shaded by trees. Temperatures can easily be 5 degrees or more cooler in the shade.

“It’s estimated that one tree is the equivalent of 10 window air conditioner units,” Hentschels says. “Two trees shading the west side of a home from the harsh afternoon summer sun have the potential of reducing cooling costs by 30%.”

In the winter, a deciduous tree allows sunshine to warm the home and the windowsill providing a nice warm spot for a cat.

There is no doubt the value of a home is increased when surrounded by mature shade trees, but they also encourage neighborhood socialization.

“There is a growing body of research that indicates plants and trees are a major benefit to mental health,” Hentschel says. “They also provide a sense of unity.”

Aesthetically, they offer beauty with springtime blooms and greenery and come fall the bright reds, yellows and golds of changing leaves. If there is shade to gather in and talk, adults are more likely to stop and pass the time as children climb tree branches or play in a tire swing.

For more information about selecting a tree for the home landscape, visit web.extension.illinois.edu/TreeSelector.

By Gemini Bhalsod, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

With a name befitting the season it blooms, common witch hazel is a fall favorite for Illinois gardeners looking to add a small tree with character to their yard.

“People are very interested in plants that add some interest to their landscape in fall and winter,” says Gemini Bhalsod, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “Common witch hazel is one of my favorites because it supports pollinators and has unusual yellow flowers.”

There are many different witch hazels, all in the Hamamelidaceae plant family. Common witch hazel, or Hamamelis virginiana, is native, although it is uncommon in natural areas as Illinois is the western edge of its native range. 

“Witch hazel is a beautiful addition to any garden because of its linear yellow flowers,” Bhalsod says. “The long, thin petals give the small flowers an interesting texture that stands out in the fall.”

Since common witch hazel blooms late in the year, its flowers blend in nicely with the colorful turning of the leaves. In Northern and Central Illinois, it flowers around mid-October, and in Southern Illinois, near the end of October.

Witch hazel is susceptible to few pests and diseases making it a great low-maintenance addition to any landscape. It even supports wasps, flies, and various moths.

“You might not think of flies or small wasps when you think of pollinators, but just like bees and butterflies, they are important to our ecosystem,” Bhalsod says. “Witch hazel also provides crucial cover for birds, who also eat its seeds.”

Take an inventory of the conditions in your yard before planting a witch hazel tree in early spring. Witch hazel is also sometimes called a large shrub because it might have one trunk or multiple trunks, but it can grow to be about 20 feet tall. It provides enough screening for edges and borders, but also works well as an understory tree.

It blooms the best when planted in part-sun, but it is adapted to many different growing conditions and is relatively shade tolerant. It works well in sandy to loamy soils with good drainage.

Find more information about witch hazel on the Garden Scoop blog.

By Andrew Holsinger, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

There are plenty of ornamental features to get excited about when it comes to trees, but one interesting feature often gets overlooked: exfoliating bark.

“Exfoliating bark is amazing all year long,” says Andrew Holsinger, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “And some varieties of trees have an amazing color contrast.”

The process of shedding bark, or exfoliating, is normal for some trees. Weather influences this process, including how much of bark is shed in a season.

A word of caution though: peeling or exfoliating bark is not a good sign for trees that don’t naturally exhibit this bark characteristic and can be a sign of problems.

“Bark can be a helpful identification characteristic when identifying trees,” Holsinger says. “Some Illinois native trees with exfoliating bark include sycamore, river birch, bald cypress, ironwood, and eastern red cedar.”

The bark of most young trees is smooth and thin. As the tree matures, the bark becomes thicker, protecting the tree. The outermost layer of bark dies and naturally sloughs off, but with exfoliating trees, this layer peels and reveals the inner layers of bark.

Even in the actively growing state, Holsinger says, the exfoliating bark is a nice feature that can add to the uniqueness of the home or urban landscape.

Exfoliating bark trees provide a great home for bats. Many of bat species native to Illinois use trees with exfoliating bark for summer roosting and maternity colonies.

Some exfoliating bark species are fire resistant. The bark acts somewhat like an insulator protecting the tree.

The following trees have exfoliating bark characteristics and can create a focal point for your landscape:

• Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
• Birch (Betula spp.)
• Black cherry (Prunus serotina)
• Dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyplostroboides)
• Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
• Ironwood/hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana)
• Lacebark elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Paperbark maple (Acer griseum)
• Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris)
• Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata)
• Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
• Zelkova (Zelkova serrata)

By Ryan Pankau, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Most people think of spring as the ideal planting time for trees and shrubs, but fall offers a nice planting window with some added benefits.

“Fall is my favorite time of year to establish woody plants,” says Ryan Pankau, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “With temperatures cooling off, roots need less moisture. And, Illinois typically gets enough fall rains to help ensure adequate soil moisture going into winter.”

All trees and shrubs experience transplant shock, which can last two to three years, sometimes even longer. To overcome transplant shock, trees and shrubs need to expand their root system beyond the planting hole. A mature tree will typically have a root system two to three times wider than the spread of its limbs.  When you think about that ratio for a newly planted tree, it takes considerable time to develop an adequate root system.

The most common mistake when planting a tree is digging a hole that is too deep.

“We can really help a tree overcome transplant stress by digging a shallow, wide planting hole,” Pankau says. “A wide hole with well-loosened soil where the edges are roughed up provides a nice space for roots to grow into the native soil.”

Planting holes don’t need to be deep because most of the tree roots are concentrated in the upper 12 to 18 inches of soil. Trees need to be planted at the proper depth, which is typically shallower than expected.

To determine the proper planting depth, start by identifying the root flare, or trunk flare, on a new tree. The flare is the portion of the trunk at the bottom of a tree that begins to flare out, or taper out, as trunk tissue transitions into root tissue. The flare needs to be even with the soil surface.

Trees that are planted too deep struggle to establish and often suffer from a lifetime of other issues. Improper depth is the most common mistake in tree planting because the depth of the tree’s original container, or root ball on balled and burlapped trees, is misleading.

“The root flare of the tree is commonly buried in the pot or down in the root ball on most nursery stock,” Pankau says.

If the root flare on your new tree is not easily identifiable, gently dig down into the container or root ball to search for the first root or roots coming out of the trunk. A young tree will have little trunk taper, making the first roots the best indicator of the root flare.

Mulch provides the finishing touch by adding a protective layer to the soil that retains moisture and prevents roots from freezing. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch as wide as your planting hole was dug.

Next spring, the tree will awaken from dormancy and its winter rest with a full canopy of green leaves. 

By Nancy Kreith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

After spring, fall is the next best time to plant a tree. When adding trees to the landscape, it’s important to research and make a suitable list of tree species. Select a proper planting location based on mature size, preferred soil conditions, disease and pest resistance, and multi-seasonal interest, says Nancy Kreith, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

“While shopping for trees at a garden center, inspect them carefully before purchasing,” Kreith says. “Look to make sure no roots are exposed. Inspect the trunk for damage, such as cankers. Be sure the container or root ball is the appropriate size compared to size of tree canopy and that trees have been watered on a regular basis.”

There are many tree species that do well throughout Illinois’ zones. These trees are appropriate for fall planting and includes native and non-native species:

• Kentucky coffee tree (Gymnocladus dioica): This Illinois native grows 60 to 75 feet tall and prefers full sun and moist, well-drained soils. It has fragrant, white flowers in the spring and persistent fruit pods. Pods can be messy, so consider a male cultivar. There are no serious pest problems and the Kentucky Coffee tree is adaptable to urban conditions, tolerating drought and pollution.
• American elm ‘New Harmony’ (Ulmus americana ‘New Harmony’): Although an Illinois native, this cultivar or another resistant cultivar, should be planted due to risk of Dutch elm disease. This tree grows up to 40 feet tall and prefers full sun and moist, well-drained soil; however, it will tolerate a range in soil pH and is wind and heat tolerant. It features a picturesque vase shape and has a nice yellow fall color. Morton Arboretum offers a list of pest resistant American elms.
• Downy serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea): This 10- to 30-foot tall Illinois native requires little maintenance and is best transplanted balled and burlapped. It features smooth gray bark, excellent fall color, and slightly fragrant white flowers in mid-spring. Best placement is in full- to part-sun and moist- to dry-conditions with well-drained soil.
• Redbud (Cercis Canadensis): This Illinois native grows 15 to 30 feet in height  and prefers part sun and rich, moist, well-drained soils. Pink blossoms occur in mid-spring before leaves appear. Seedpods can persist through winter. This tree is naturally short-lived. If dieback occurs, cutting it to the ground encourages sucker growth than can become a substantially-sized tree.
• White fir (Abies concolor): White fir grows  30 to 50 feet high. This pyramidal evergreen tree that prefers full- to part-sun and moist, well-drained, sandy soils. It is valued for its silvery green foliage and useful for screening or as a specimen tree. It is relatively pest free and performs well in Midwest conditions.
• Limber pine (Pinus flexilis): This 30- to 50-foot-tall evergreen tree prefers full- to part-sun and moist, well-drained soils. This long-lived species works well as a specimen tree. It is adaptable to dry soils, windy sites and is more tolerant to salt spray than most pines.
• Serbian spruce (Picea omorika): This evergreen grows 50 to 60 feet high and prefers deep, rich, moist, well drained soils. It tolerates part-shade and urban conditions, except for pollution. It serves as an excellent specimen tree, with dark green needles and contrasting white on the underside.

Consider cultivars bred for certain characteristics. Redbud ‘Lavender Twist’ is a weeping form that reaches 4 to 5 feet high. Serbian spruce 'Sky Trails' has a weeping habit, with blue-green needles and contrasting white underneath. Kentucky coffee tree 'Espresso' features a vase-shape, and its male cultivar will not produce fruit.

Wait until spring to plant trees, such as hemlock, willow, river birch, white oak, bald cypress, ginkgo, sweetgum, magnolia, American hophornbeam, or hornbeam since establishment is often difficult and slow, Kreith says.

For more information about tree selection, please the Illinois Extension tree selector website.

By Sarah Vogel, Horticulture and Natural Resources Educator, Illinois Extension

This fall use leaves to grow next year’s healthier garden. By adding fallen leaves to compost, homeowners can save money, improve soil quality, and act more environmentally friendly.

“The science behind composting may sound technical, but it is as simple as throwing leaves and food scraps in a pile and using a shovel to move it around,” says Sarah Vogel, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. “Composting can be a great way to reduce the amount of biodegradable material entering landfills and save money by reducing lawn bag use.”

Compost is organic material, meaning it comes from an organism that was once alive. Composting is the breakdown of organic material through controlled decomposition. This decomposition can occur aerobically with oxygen, anaerobically without oxygen, or sometimes, even with worms.

Aerobic composting, or allowing oxygen into the mix, can be accomplished on the ground or in a tumbler. A tumbler is a receptacle that keeps things tidy and is easy to turn but dries out faster and does not receive beneficial microbes from the soil unless added. For those who have a small garden or do not produce a lot of organic waste, a tumbler may be a good option.

“Many people compost in a pile or a bin system,” Vogel says. “There are several do-it-yourself bin systems also available for purchase. A pile is a very simple way to start and easy to access when turning the compost.”

Depending on the size of the compost pile, what is added, and how often it is tended, compost can take anywhere from 90 days to two years to become usable. Using the three-bin or three-pile method, each of the three piles are in varying stages of development: new, partly aged and usable. Composters can speed up the process by turning more frequently.

To start a compost pile, select a shady spot as moisture content will remain important for decomposition. To create good compost, use one-part green materials (the nitrogen component) and two parts brown materials (the carbon component). Add greens and browns in alternating layers, occasionally adding non-glossy newspaper or a bit of soil. Turn every 30 days to aerate and mix.

• Greens: Kitchen scraps and coffee grounds, fresh grass clippings, livestock manure.
• Browns: Fallen Leaves, non-glossy shredded paper or cardboard, wood ash, straw, sawdust, hair trimmings.
• Do not compost: Diseased or pesticide treated plants, weeds with seed heads, twigs, meat or bones, dairy products, human or pet waste.

Compost will produce heat as a by-product of the microbial breakdown of organic material. The amount of heat will depend on the size of the pile, moisture content, aeration, and the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. When the compost is ready, it will be dark in color and smell earthy and rich.

How a compost smells will tell you a lot about how to troubleshoot any issues.

• For an ‘off’ odor, add browns.
• Damp and smells sweet, but not heating up, add greens.
• Ammonia smell, add browns.
• Compost is dry, add material in layers and cover to lock in moisture.

For more information contact your local Extension office, or visit the Illinois Extension composting website.

By Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Don't put that trowel and rake away yet. Fall may end this year's gardening season, but it is the perfect time to begin preparations for next year. Taking care of a few details now means fewer chores, pests and problems next spring. 

Take stock

The first step is taking stock of how your garden fared this year. Do a walk-through and take notes on plant location and performance, says Martha Smith, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

“You should sketch out your vegetable garden,” Smith says. “Crop rotation is very important when it comes to vegetable diseases. In the spring, you can refer to your sketch rather than rely on your memory and plant vegetables in different locations.”

Perennials and annuals should also receive a year-end review. Note whether this season's plants met expectations or if different plants and varieties are needed for next year. Perhaps choosing a different location for certain varieties will help their performance. Do any perennials need to be divided? Do it now or make a list for next spring.

Landscape clean up
Diseased plants should be completely removed. Healthy plant debris can be added to your compost pile. If any perennials have been seriously and routinely plagued with disease, fall is the time to discard them before they spread problems to other plants.

After the first frost, remove annuals and cut back tops of tall herbaceous perennials. Many gardeners prefer to leave most of their perennials as they are, cutting them back in the spring. Tall perennials more than 3 feet tall will flop over under the weight of snow or ice and create environments for rodents and other wildlife; many may reseed..

“I always cut seed heads off of Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) and Blackberry Lily (Belamcanda chinensis) before they spread,” Smith says. “But if you want more, let them be.”

Fall bulbs
Dig up tender bulbs such as gladioli, dahlia, and canna lilies. Dry them, and store over winter in a cool, frost-free area. Garden centers have hardy bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, and crocus in stock now. Check out the selection and plant in October and November for spring blooms.

Leaves in the landscape
Rake leaves and add them to your compost pile or locate them near the garden so they are handy to add as mulch next spring and summer.

Don't let fallen leaves accumulate and mat down over your desirable turf. After the heat of summer, grass is actively growing in the fall. Leaves smother the grass and prevent photosynthesis which is the plants ability to produce food. Consider using fallen leaves as winter mulch around tender plants.

Container plants
Container plants should be pulled and added to your compost pile. Saving potting mix to replant for next year is difficult. Roots are not going to disappear over winter and you will have to deal with them sooner or later. Potting mixes will also lose their organic matter content since it breaks down through the growing season.

Throw roots and media in the compost pile if this is the case and clean out the container with a mild bleach solution of 10-parts water, one-part bleach.

If saving the soil for next year, store it in a dry area or cover it with plastic to keep out debris and prevent it from getting waterlogged.

“Now, you can begin to put away your garden tools,” Smith says. “But while you're at it, remember to clean the tools, wipe the metal blades with oil, and store them under cover so they too are ready for next year.”

By Ron Wolford, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

When you think of Halloween, you may think trick-or-treating and fall, but you likely also think pumpkins.

Illinois is the top pumpkin-producing state in the U.S., says Ron Wolford, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

“In 2018, Illinois pumpkin farmers produced an estimated 500 million pounds of pumpkins,” he says. “The town of Morton claims to be the Pumpkin Capital of the World, with 82% of the world's canned pumpkin processed there.” 

Although jack-o’-lantern pumpkins are edible, other squash varieties have better texture for making pies, soups, and breads. The world's largest pumpkin pie was made at the New Bremen, Ohio, Pumpkin Fest in 2010. The pie was 20 feet in diameter and weighed 3,699 pounds.

Pumpkins are grown on every continent except Antarctica. The largest pumpkin on record was grown in 2016 and weighed 2,624 pounds.

Tips for selecting the perfect pumpkin for carving

• Choose a pumpkin with a stem at least 1 to 2 inches long. Never carry it by the stem.
• Select a pumpkin with a flat bottom, so it will stand upright.
• Avoid pumpkins with holes, cuts or soft spots. These areas will decay.
• Use the thumbnail test. Press your thumbnail into the pumpkin, if your nail makes a scratch in the pumpkin, do not select.
• Color is also important. Light-colored pumpkins are easier to carve because the skin is not as hard as darker ones, but they will not keep as well.

Before carving or display, wash the pumpkin with warm water and let it dry. The pumpkin will last longer in a cool place. After carving, coat the inside of the pumpkin and the cuts with petroleum jelly. A pumpkin cut for Halloween will last seven to 10 days depending on weather conditions.

Avoid using candles to light a pumpkin because the heat will cook the flesh, shortening its lifespan.

For more information about pumpkins, check out the Illinois Extension website Pumpkins and More.