By Horticulture Educator Chris Enroth

When confronted with lawn weeds, typically we think of dandelion, creeping Charlie, and violet. These plants and many others are classified as broadleaved weeds, or dicots, and are easily distinguished from grasses which are monocots. Scientists have engineered herbicides that target broadleaved plants, while the chemical does not affect desirable turfgrass.

But what happens when you have a grassy weed appear in your lawn? Selective lawn herbicides containing 2, 4-D or dicamba, are useful in controlling broadleaves, but will not work on grasses.

Annual grasses, such as crabgrass are best controlled with a preemergent herbicide applied before the offending weeds germinate. Once the seed has germinated a homeowner should practice good lawn care culture that can make a lawn more competitive with the weeds.

Perennial grassy weeds like quackgrass or nimblewill are becoming more common in home lawns. They are difficult to control because they are perennial, meaning they come back year after year.

And since cool-season grassy weeds, like tall fescue, match the lifecycle of our desirable cool-season turfgrass species this makes it difficult to find a targeted timeframe or chemical that will kill the offending plant, but leave the desirable turfgrass. Often homeowners must resort to spraying a non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, rake out the dead patch and reseed with their desired species of turf.

Enroth says lawn herbicides containing mesotrione have shown to be effective at controlling some troublesome grassy weeds like nimblewill. But other products are a bit pricey and best left to professional lawn care companies. And most can only legally be used by licensed applicators.

I do not spray herbicides on my lawn. I practice good lawn culture, which gets me about 80% of the way to a perfect lawn. The other 20% is easy to live with.

With this approach, I look for established vegetation. A successful lawn has a groundcover that won’t erode and send sediment into the streams and rivers, plus the plants must tolerate family activities. The benefit of weeds is that they are still green. The added benefit of weedy grasses is that at least they blend in, more or less, with the turf.

Proper lawn care practices

1. Mow high – Set the blade to almost the highest setting (3½ inches). Cool season grasses, like turf-type tall fescue, prefer this height.
2. Sharpen blades – Getting a mower’s blades sharpened can make a world of difference and will cut your lawn instead of beating up the lawn with a dull blade.
3. Avoid high amounts of nitrogen in the early spring. The grass grows fast enough at that time of year. If you will only fertilize once, opt for the late summer to early fall for cool-season lawns.
4. Overseed from late summer to early fall.
5. Keep it clean. Pick up after pets.
6. Stay on top of mowing. Avoid removing more the 1/3 of the leaf blade to not stress the lawn.

For more information on lawn care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger

This summer has brought drought to many parts of Illinois. Most gardeners are aware that plants need water to thrive, but it can be helpful to review the ins and outs of garden hydration to ensure the best results. 

Many environmental conditions factor into plant survival. Hydration is one of the most important of those factors.

Plants vary in their moisture requirements, but as a general rule, vegetable crops require at least 1 inch of water per week. Excessively hot or windy days lead to a need for more frequent irrigation because more water is lost from the plant. Too little water can cause not only drought stress but also increased disease or insect susceptibility.

The most straightforward way to identify drought is to look for the impacts such as on plants. Sometimes these impacts may go unnoticed, especially with trees and shrubs. Water is especially important in the fall for evergreen trees and shrubs as these plants still lose water even during the winter.

Mulch can help conserve moisture and reduce the plant’s demand for more water. For plastic mulches, the plants will need to be irrigated regardless of rainfall events. Water does not readily penetrate beneath the plastic, so it is often necessary to add drip irrigation under the plastic.

Putting moisture in the right place, where the plant is located, is also a way to reduce weeds because you’re not providing water where it isn’t necessary. 

It’s not advised to water mid-day during hot periods as more water is lost to evaporation. Morning is usually the best time to water as it allows for the foliage to dry preventing fungal diseases caused by leaves that have remained wet for too long.

Drip irrigation delivers water to the base of the plant instead of on its foliage. Gardeners should avoid excessive water application on leaves to avoid fungal pathogens and diseases, some of which can cause wilting. Surprisingly, overwatering can also cause wilting, so be sure to check the soil before watering. 

For most plants in the garden or landscape, a well-drained soil is required. However, in some spaces where drainage may be an issue, a raised bed can help increase drainage. Raised beds can be used for both ornamental and edible crop plantings.

Containers can be great for growing, but they need adequate drainage holes. A more frequent watering schedule is required for containers, as they dry out more quickly than garden beds.

It’s rare in Illinois to see consistent precipitation throughout the season, and an attentive gardener is aware of it. Your watering schedule will have to be adjusted over the season. 

As plants mature, they require more water. Therefore, if you have a limited amount of water available to dedicate to your garden, you may want to plan ahead. Setting up zones based on water use can help to distribute water at appropriate levels to plants based on their cultural requirements.

For more information on plant care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Brittnay Haag

Fall blooming plants extend the season of our gardens after many plants have dried up or are done blooming for the year. They are also a much-needed food source for pollinators who are still foraging and getting ready for winter.

Prolong the floral show in your yard with annual or perennial plants that bloom late summer into fall.

When designing the garden, aim to have plants blooming continuously from spring to fall, using a variety of plant species. Perennials can be planted now, but make sure to allow at least four weeks for the roots to develop before a hard frost arrives.

If you don’t get to it this year, make plans for next year. Perennial plants can also be planted in the spring or early summer.

Perennials with late-season blooms

• Helenium (Helenium autumnale L. var. autumnale)
• Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
• New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta),
• Sedums (Sedum sp.),
• Japanese anemone (Eriocapitella hupehensis).
• Shrubs: Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata), or Bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis).

Annual plants, those completing their lifecycle in one year, can offer colorful blooms from spring until frost. Consider sprucing up your overgrown or spent-looking summer containers with a fall makeover to create a beautiful display of warm, autumnal colors.

Combine some fall blooms or foliage with existing plants that still look healthy and are blooming. Many thriller plants or focal plants such as ornamental grasses and tropicals will look great through the fall. They will add structure and height to the arrangement since many of your newly planted annuals will be shorter.

If you plan to overwinter any of your tropical plants indoors, make sure to transplant them to a different container and move them indoors before temperatures drop below freezing.

Pansies (Viola sp.) can be added for a bright pop of color in any container and will have a long and late blooming season. They will do best in partly shaded areas and regular waterings. Ornamental kale and cabbage (Brassica oleracea) create a rosette of colorful and interesting foliage mixed with blooming plants. Find varieties with combinations of greens, purple and white to add to your full-sun containers. Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ (Beta vulgaris) is typically grown as an edible, but it is too beautiful to not include in decorative fall containers. The combination of rainbow-colored stems and glossy green foliage almost makes it look artificial.

To make your fall containers last longer, cover them with light blankets or larger containers when nighttime temperatures are below freezing. Many of the annual plants at the garden centers this time of year will survive in temperatures as low as 20°F without any damage.

For more information on plant selection or care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Nancy Kreith

When people think of fall, harvesting salad greens rarely comes to mind. However, late summer is a terrific time for gardeners to begin planting lettuce, arugula, endive, or other leafy greens for salads. Not only are these plants quick and easy to grow as temperatures start to cool, but they also add a significant source of nutrients to your diet.

Most leafy greens are rich in vitamins A and C, potassium, calcium, and fiber, and are low in calories. Studies have shown lettuce to have high antioxidant compounds – red leaf being the highest – that help to fight certain types of cancer.

When growing salad greens, transplants are not as easy to come by in late summer as they are in the spring. The best option may be to plant seed directly into the garden bed. Transplants can be set into the ground in early to mid-September and seeds should be planted in late August to early September. Refer to seed packets for specific planting dates for your region. Direct seeding is a great method for most salad greens, considering many will go from seed to harvest in less than 45 days.  

Whether planting seeds or transplants, loosen the soil first, add all-purpose granulated organic or synthetic fertilizer, plant, and water. For transplants, carefully spread out the roots, place the plant into a hole, and lightly firm up the soil around the base of the plant. 

For seed, dig a shallow trench, add a pinch of seed along the row, and lightly cover it. Be sure not to plant seeds too deep. A general rule of thumb is to plant a seed two to three times its thickness underground. Keep seeds evenly moist with a light sprinkle of water every other day until they germinate, usually in about a week. Typically, most direct-seeded salad greens will not need to be thinned. 

Gardeners should think about what types of greens will suit their tastes when choosing what to plant.

Common salad greens 

• Green leaf lettuce is known for its mild flavor and grows in a loose bunch. 
• Red leaf lettuce adds color to your diet, is rich in antioxidants, and has a shorter shelf life.  
• Butterhead (bib or Boston) lettuce grows into a soft head with tender, rounded leaves and is known for its mild, buttery flavor.  
• Arugula grows very fast and is often harvested as baby leaves. It has a distinctive peppery flavor and is quite pungent. Harvest this green before it becomes overgrown and hairy. 
• Mizuna is tangy, not as tender as most greens, and will add texture to salads with its deeply cut fringed leaves.  
• Japanese red mustard has a sharp flavor with notes of pepper, garlic, and mustard. It should be harvested as baby leaves for use in salads. Larger leaves are commonly used in stir-fry dishes.  
• Baby bok choy has a mild, refreshing flavor and crunchy, celery-like texture. The outer, more mature leaves of this green can be harvested as needed or wait until the loose head has matured and cut the entire plant at the base.  
• Belgian endive is pale yellow and has a dense, long head of crunchy leaves. It can be added to salads but often is used for wraps or other appetizers.  
• Curly endive (frisee) has beautiful, frilly, yellowish-green leaves with a strong, somewhat bitter taste. 

Once salad green varieties are selected, sourced, and planted, follow the best practices for post-planting care. Provide plants with at least 1 inch of water per week. Plants should not need another round of fertilizer with good quality soil. Remove weeds and consider mulching the soil with straw or untreated grass clippings. Monitor plants and harvest them as leaves mature or as needed depending on the type.  

It is important to have a plan for harvesting, as greens can quickly become overgrown and result in a tough texture and bitter taste.

For continued harvest, cut the outer leaves first and keep the central point growing. Baby leaves can be harvested, clear cut, as the plant grows and are tender and tasty. Plants will grow back for another round of harvesting after being clear cut. Leaves can be rinsed in cold water before serving and pat dry with a clean towel. 

If a bulk supply of greens are ready to harvest, cut and store them in the refrigerator rather than letting them over-mature. Lastly, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor, as these nutritious salad greens will make a wonderful addition to the garden and your plate. 

For more information on vegetable gardening, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Emily Swihart

Spring showers, summer thunderstorms, a winter dusting of snow; these are familiar weather events for Midwesterners, but as climate changes so do weather events. Extreme weather is increasing in Illinois.

Over the past 120 years, significant changes have occurred that are causing more extreme weather events, according to a recently published report from The Nature Conservancy in Illinois “An Assessment of the Impacts of Climate Change in Illinois.” Heat waves have increased, and as a result, summer storm intensity has increased. The number of extremely cold days, with temperatures less than 32°F, will decrease and the freeze-free season will be extended. Warmer winter temperatures result in heavy rain and snow events.

The impact of climate change is not limited to humans. Plants, especially long-lived plants such as trees, are affected by these changes too.

So many of us love the trees in our lives and it can be devastating to see one fail because of a weather event. Taking actions before and after a storm can help promote tree resilience and longevity.

Regardless of the type of storm, healthy trees are better able to withstand severe weather. Healthy trees are well balanced in form, free from disease and injury, and have adequate root systems.

Proper, regular care of young trees contributes to the development of healthy mature trees. Planting the right tree in the right place is the first step to having resilient trees.

Tree species vary in site condition preferences and tolerances so matching tree requirements to site conditions will promote its establishment and overall health. Assessing a tree’s form and making proper pruning cuts when necessary, can create a canopy that is well balanced, encourages a single leader, and has strong branch attachment angles. Providing supplemental water to young trees during times of drought encourages root system development. Strong root systems support healthy canopies by providing adequate amounts of water and nutrients and help anchor the tree.

During a severe weather event, extra stress is put on the tree. Snow and ice storms add extra weight to the branches and cause breaking or failure. High winds can ‘push’ trees over in an event known as wind throw when root systems are not capable of resisting the extra force put on the canopy. Winds may also cause tree trunks to fail at weak points or trunks may sustain damage due to twisting of the canopy.

Drought stress can cause short- and long-term damage to trees. Extreme heat can contribute to canopy dieback and health decline. Extreme cold can cause twig and branch die back or destroy flower and leaf buds.

After a storm or weather-related event, your safety is the priority. Stay away from any fallen powerline or tree interacting with a powerline.

Utility lines should always be considered live and dangerous. Call the utility provider before damage assessment and site clean-up.

After a weather-related event, many factors contribute to determining which trees require maintenance to restore health or have sustained fatal injuries. A certified arborist is a trained professional who can assist with assessment and tree removal if necessary. It is recommended that routine inspections be conducted on trees remaining on a site to monitor for decline or disease.

Finally, trees provide a wide variety of services in our communities – from cooling homes to creating habitat for wildlife. If trees are lost, after clean-up has occurred, replanting is the final step in recovery. Planting and caring for trees ensures that the landscape will continue to have these life supporting species for years to come.

For more information on tree selection or care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Ken Johnson

Plants such as cannas, caladiums, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, and tuberous begonia can make a great addition to the landscape. These plants are commonly referred to as tender bulbs, or summer-blooming bulbs. Not all of them actually grow from bulbs, but this is what their fleshy storage structures are commonly referred to as. Other storage structures include corms, rhizomes, tubers, and roots.

Unlike spring-blooming bulbs such as tulips and daffodils, these tropical plants will be killed by our cold winter temperatures if left outdoors. So, if you don't want to have to buy new bulbs every year you’ll need to dig and store them indoors for the winter.

Keep an eye on the plant’s foliage. Once the leaves begin to yellow or have been killed by a frost, the foliage can be cut back. The plants should be dug up within a few days of a frost to make sure rot-causing organisms don't enter the bulbs. Be careful when digging plants; if the bulbs are accidentally cut or “skinned” this creates an entry for pathogens that can quickly spread disease.

One way to avoid damaging the bulbs is to begin digging several inches away from the plant. Loosen the soil all around the plant, then lift the entire clump. After the clump has been lifted, remove any excess soil on the bulbs and discard any damaged bulbs. Using a digging fork can also help avoid causing damage to bulbs.

Most bulbs will need a curing, or drying, period before being stored for the winter. This can be as short as one to three days or as long as three weeks for plants like gladiolus and callas. While drying, keep the bulbs out of direct sunlight and in a well-ventilated area with temperatures around 60°F to 70°F.

Before storing bulbs inspect them again for any signs of disease or insects. Discard or treat any bulbs that may have pest problems. If you store them with 'healthy' bulbs the problems can spread over the winter and become a much larger problem.

It's also a good idea to label what the bulbs are so that you know what's what come spring. There's not much more frustrating than having a bunch of bulbs and having no idea what's what.

Dried bulbs can be stored in 2 to 3-inch layers of peat moss, sand, vermiculite, sawdust, or coconut coir in a well-ventilated container such as milk or bread crates or cardboard boxes. Try not to let bulbs touch one another while they are being stored. This will help prevent the spread of rot between bulbs.

Store bulbs in a cool area with temperatures around 40°F to 50°F such as an unheated garage or unfinished basement.

Periodically check your bulbs throughout the winter and remove any that appear to be rotting. Also, check the moisture levels. If bulbs are beginning to shrink and become wrinkled, moisten the media they are being stored in with a spray bottle. Just make sure not to moisten them too much because that can lead to rot.

For more information on plant care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Christina Lueking

Gardens can grow a variety of surprising things, but one item you wouldn’t expect to find grown next to beans and tomatoes is a loofah sponge. But one member of the Cucurbitaceae family does just that.

While most people think a loofah sponge comes from the ocean or at least an aquatic plant, it’s actually found on a trellis in a garden. A loofah, or luffa, plant is considered a vegetable. Luffa aegyptiaca, is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family like squash or cucumber says Christina Lueking, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. This gourd is starting to show up farmers markets this time of year and you may be curious to try growing it next year.

The first time seeing one growing you might think it is a very long cucumber. The vines grow extremely long and produce edible fruit growing off them which turn into fibrous gourds when left to mature on the vine.

This outer layer is then peeled away to expose the inner fibers that everyone recognizes as a luffa sponge.

The loofah gourds are a unique addition to any garden, but especially demonstration gardens for youth.

Starting from seed

Loofa seeds should be soaked and started indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. One thing to consider is that you will have to have some patience for this plant as it has a 150 to 200-day growing season. It is important to harden off your transplant to reduce transplant shock before planting in the garden.

Growing needs

Loofa plants need full sun and a strong structure to allow the up to 30-foot-long vines to climb and trellis on while producing fruits in three months. Loofah plants need to be trellised for the weight of the green fruit but as they mature, fruit will dry and lose moisture.

Loofah plants have male and female flowers like winter squash. If pollinators are limited in your garden, hand pollination techniques can be used to pollinate the female flower to increase production. It is recommended that pinching of all flowers and small luffa occur two months before the last frost to direct all the remaining energy to the gourds that will be left to harvest.   

Harvest

These diverse plants can be harvested for eating when they are 4 inches to 7 inches long and are traditionally served in Asian dishes. Depending on your growing zone, you will either harvest brown and lightweight gourds or green gourds. Harvest the gourds with hand pruners from the vines.

Those in Southern Illinois’ growing zone 6 climate will need to harvest some green fruit that may not be completely dry and brown before our first frost.

Processing loofah

1. To process harvested loofah, lay the gourd on a hard surface and press down to crack the skin of the gourd.
2. Press your thumbs into the skin and pull the skin apart. This process takes more effort if the skin is still green.
3. Pull the skin or pieces off the fibers to expose a long sponge that contains black seeds.
4. Rinse the sponge under water and let the sponge sit overnight on a piece of cardboard to dry out.
5. Some seeds might drop during this process, just sit them out to dry. Once dry, you can shake out the remaining seeds over the cardboard and enjoy your new sponge.

For more information on plant care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Mary Fischer

For centuries, gardens have provided a unique bridge between humans and the natural world. Gardens were viewed by many cultures as a “reflection of heaven on earth.” Today, most gardens are considered landscape projects. But sensory gardens, with their engaging sights, sounds, smells, scents, and tastes once again connect us with nature.

Throughout history, special gardens have been created to enhance the experience by engaging the senses resulting in a profound positive effect on human well-being and behavior. Sensory gardens are designed to entice a visitor to view at close range, to reach out and touch, to inhale a fragrance, to listen and actively experience the garden with all their senses.

These gardens can be designed for spaces of all sizes, from small courtyards or borders, even containers. Garden “rooms” can be designed specifically to stimulate one sense at a time or multiple senses simultaneously.

Sensory gardens are also multi-functional. They can be used for teaching, relaxing, and multiple therapies. Some sensory gardens are design-specific, such as for children, the visually impaired, tactile or kinesthetic learners, and for therapeutic horticulture. Including raised beds and wider pathways allow sensory gardens to be accessible to all.

Sensory gardens often contain additional, non-plant, sensory opportunities. Since people-plant interaction is encouraged, interpretive signs are important. The different textures of hardscapes, like large rocks, are added to provide visual and tactile experiences. Pathways made of various surfaces like sand, woodchips, flagstone, or flat steppingstones craft distinctive tactile and auditory experiences.

Water features create additional sensory experiences through sight, sound, and touch. 

Bird feeders invite feathered visitors to also enjoy the garden. These birds offer brilliant bursts of color to please the eye and bird songs to entice the visitor to identify the avian guest.

When choosing plants, remember they need to be people-friendly. Do not use poisonous or allergenic plants. Avoid plants that require pesticides. Select plants with contrasting forms and textures to create visual interest. Low mounds of satiny wormwood next to tall spires of flowers work well in terms of shape and texture. Brushing against plants spilling over the edge of a raised bed offers a tactile experience that can be enhanced by a fragrant plant choice like lavender.

Sight: Adding visual interest to a sensory garden can be as simple as adding plants with different color blossoms and habits like creeping, climbing, trailing, busy or upright. Incorporating plants that bloom at different times of the day or season, differing leaf patterns, unusual bark, and stem colors provides visual interest.

Smell: The sense of smell, adds nostalgic stamps to our memory banks. Scents often trigger remembrances of special places or people. Sensory gardens can be full of intertwining aromas evoking emotions. Sweet smelling fragrances of honeysuckle, gardenias, or peonies and more savory scents of herbs like thyme, rosemary, or oregano provide ample occasions for stimulating long ago memories and creating new memories.

Sound: To stimulate the sense of sound, select flora that make noise when the wind blows through them, such as rattlesnake master, false indigo, bamboos, or ornamental grasses. Wind chimes can increase the variety of sounds. Bird feeders and birdbaths draw the attention of feathered friends to enjoy a feast, take a drink and offer their songs as payment. Dry leaves on the ground or graveled walks add crunch when trod underfoot. Water features further add an extra element of auditory stimuli.

Touch: Gardens designed with a tactile experience are wonderful for children and the visually impaired. The sense of touch allows visitors to enjoy the sensory garden in a more personal, tactile way. Select sturdy plants that will withstand frequent handling as well as those with contrasting textures including soft and fuzzy or rough and spiky. The velvety feel of rose petals, the soft, silky texture of wormwood, the fuzzy foliage of Lamb’s ear, the smooth, leathery surface of a Southern Magnolia, the spiky rosette of sea holly, all increase a sense of connectedness with nature. Succulents have leaves with a range of tactile experiences.

Taste: Visitors can entice their taste buds with edible fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Fruit could include strawberries, thornless blackberries, small fruit trees like blueberries, apples, and peaches to name a few.

Find a detailed guide to creating a sensory garden at go.illinois.edu/SensoryGarden. For more information on plant selection or care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Plant options for a sensory garden

Sight

• Bleeding hearts, Dicentra spectabilis. Heart-shaped flowers
• Butterfly weed, Ascelpias tuberosa. Attracts butterflies.
• Cockscomb, Celosia argentea. Bright flowers.
• Pinks, Dianthus hybrid. Soft colors, scent.
• Zinnias, Zinnia elegans. Showy flowers, butterflies.

Smell

• Creeping Thyme, Thymus Serpyllum. Scent.
• Catmint, Nepeta mussinii. Cats love this.
• Anise Hyssop, Agastache foeniculum. Licorice-like scent.
• Hyacinths, Hyacinthus orientalis. Sweet, strong scent flowers.
• Lily-of-the-valley, Convallaria majalis. Sweet-scented flowers.

Sound

• Balloon Flower, Platycodon grandifloras. Popping sound when squeezed
• False Indigo, Baptisia australis. Rattling seed pods
• Pigsqueak, Bergenia cordifolia. Foliage squeaks when rubbed
• Switchgrass, Panicum virgatum. Sound of wind through leaves

Taste

• Chives, Allium schoenoprasum. Mild onion-like flavor
• Nasturtium, Tropaeolum majus. Peppery flavor
• Mint, Mentha spp. Peppermint or spearmint.

Touch

• Lambs’ Ears, Stachys byzantine. Soft, furry foliage
• Satiny Wormwood, Artemisia schmidtiana. Fine, silky foliage.
• Wooly Thyme, Thymus pseudolanuginosus. Fine, soft hairs on leaves

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle

Clovers are making a comeback in lawn seed mixes. Today many families want to attract more pollinators to their yards. They are searching for ecologically sound ways to grow grass, including adding white clover back to the turf seed mix. Clover adds diversity to lawns and provides food for bees says Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

If you are looking for an eco-sustainable alternative to lawns, try adding clover to your lawn. The short growing, self-fertilizing, low maintenance, long-living micro clover species will provide more a more biodiverse, durable grass lawn.

White clover, Trifolium repens, was common in lawns before the introduction of broadleaf weed herbicides in the 1950s. Although broadleaves weeds were typically the target of these chemicals, white clover was often damaged or killed.

All clovers are in the legume, or pea, family. Legumes are very useful plants for our environment because they pull nitrogen from the air and convert it into nitrogen in the soil that helps feed plants. Unlike any other plant, legumes create their own fertilizer. Because of these characteristics, there is interest in using microclover in lawns to enhance turfgrass growth and reduce nitrogen fertilizer applications which helps limit fertilizer runoff into waterways.

Unfortunately, white clover sometimes forms clumps and competes with desirable turfgrass, resulting in a non-uniform lawn appearance. Microclover (Trifolium repens var. ‘Pirouette’ and ‘Pipolina’) is a selection of white clover with smaller leaves and a slower, less aggressive growth habit.

Preliminary research finds that microclover mixes better with most turfgrass species than common white clover when seeded at appropriate rates. The microclover seed often comes coated with a Rhizobium bacterium – a natural organism that the plant needs to fix nitrogen, sometimes lacking in residential lawn soils.

There are many benefits to adding microclover to a lawn. It mixes well with turf grasses and provides a uniform appearance while its flowers are a food source for bees. Microclover is competitive with weeds, so less herbicide is necessary. And it helps prevent soil compaction which reduces nutrient runoff.

Lawn clippings that include microclover are a natural organic nitrogen source, which means you can reduce how many times you apply nitrogen.  

But microclover may not be suitable for every lawn. It does not tolerate high heat and drought and does not do well in shady conditions. Microclover may require reseeding for long-term growth in the lawn and its top growth dies back in the winter, which can leave bare spots and lead to erosion. Its seeds are expensive and not readily available in retail stores. Most broadleaf herbicides labeled for use in lawns will kill microclover

To establish micro-clover in a lawn, plan to plant between early spring to late summer. No tilling is required. Mow the grass low before seeding. Set the mower to the lowest setting to reduce competition with existing grass. Rake and core aerate the soil.

Sow microclover seed by hand or use a broadcast spreader for a more even distribution in larger areas. Water the area every day for the first seven to 10 days because the soil needs to stay moist until the microclover has sprouted. White clover typically blooms in mid-March and grows slower during the summer months.

For more information on lawn care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Sarah Vogel

As gardeners know, weeds will grow nearly anywhere. Even cracks in the pavement can sustain plant life if there is soil, water, and light. Whether a plant is considered a weed depends on how it is affecting the intended use of the site and who is looking at it.

A white oak seedling is not typically considered a weed, but if it’s growing in a vegetable garden it is often treated as one. Some gardeners eliminate broadleaves to maintain a perfectly manicured lawn, though if you’re a hungry pollinator insect, a dandelion, violet, or clover flower may be a welcome sight.

Weeds compete with desirable species for available moisture and nutrients. They can harbor pests and diseases, or even present health hazards. Occasionally weeds are so troublesome that removal is required by the Illinois noxious weed law. Characteristics that make weeds so successful also makes them difficult to control, and gardeners should consider a management strategy to keep weeds in check.

Because weeds reproduce through many means, they must be managed at various times throughout the growing season. The most successful approach is through a combination of control methods and proper timing. To minimize cost and environmental effects, use mechanical or cultural techniques to control weeds before trying pesticides.

Prevent weeds

The first line of defense against weeds is keeping desirable plants healthy. Choose disease-resistant varieties of species that are adapted to the site where they will be planted. Place the right plant in the right site, scout for pests and diseases regularly, provide adequate water and fertilizer, and cover bare soil for weed prevention.

Grow healthy lawns: Keeping a healthy, dense stand of turfgrass is the best way to keep broadleaves out. In established turf, mow lawns high before weeds produce flowers. Lawns mowed at higher deck height have deeper roots and fewer weeds.

Apply mulch: In landscape or vegetable beds, apply mulch to suppress weeds, prevent soil temperature fluctuations, retain moisture, and add organic matter back to the soil. Organic mulch sources are wood chips, shredded bark, straw, grass clippings, shredded leaves, or compost. Inorganic options include landscape fabric, punctured black plastic, or clear plastic which creates a heating effect called solarization.

Grow cover crops: Cover crops are another way to manage weeds in both new and established areas. Some species are chosen for their ability to replenish soil nutrients, while others improve soil tilth, or its physical condition. Cover crops keep weeds in check by forming a living mulch since they grow densely. When the garden bed is ready for use, some cover crops can be turned under and put to work as green manure.

When establishing a new garden plot, manage weeds before planting or you may wind up in a losing battle all growing season. If the pressures of weeds in your garden beds become too demanding, you may consider alternative growing systems like raised beds or containers. 

Controlling weeds

A mechanical approach to weed supression is best achieved when weeds are small. tilling, hoeing, shoveling, using a flame weeder, or simply weeding by hand are efficient but may be impractical for large plots. Some perennial weeds may require repeat management. 

Chemical control may not be necessary to treat weeds, and most herbicides are not recommended for vegetable gardens. How effective a product is depends on the type of herbicide used, when it’s applied, coverage, and environmental conditions. Applying unnecessary herbicides can cause harm to plants, soil, water, beneficial insects like pollinators, or humans. Always read and follow label directions when using pesticides.

For more information on weed control options, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Brittnay Haag 

Roses are red, violets are blue and they have also earned top honors being named Plant of the Year by the International Herb Association. Every year, the association selects plants that are considered outstanding for decorative, culinary, or medicinal use. This year, they have selected Viola, a genus of flowering plants.

With their brightly-colored blooms that resemble cheerful faces peeking out of the foliage, Violas make a great addition to any early-season container or garden plantings. Blooms can be found in a variety of colors, including solids, bicolor, and mixes.

In the language of flowers, a common practice in the Victorian era that allowed messages and emotions to be shared with others, Violas symbolize thoughts filled with love. It is also the birth flower of those born in February.

Members of the genus Viola – including pansies, violets, and Johnny jump ups – are cool-season plants that grow best in spring and fall. They should be planted in areas with morning sun and moist, well-drained soils. As the weather warms in late May and June, many cool-season plants will fade out and stop blooming but can be moved to a cool, shady place in the garden to extend their growing season.

Violas are also great for pollinators. These cool-season annuals supply early spring pollinators with much-needed nectar.

In early March, pollinators emerge looking for food sources to survive. There are very few flowering plants at that time, except spring-blooming bulbs like grape hyacinth and crocus. Planting cool-season annuals provide an important addition to their spring diet. Johnny jump up flowers even have thin dark stripes that serve as guides for the pollinators to find nectar as they visit the flowers and pollinate other flowering plants by transferring pollen.

When planting Violas in spring or fall containers, add interesting twigs, like birch, contorted filbert, or curly willow to the center of containers. These elements add height and interest to the arrangement of low-growing flowers. If planting these annuals in-ground, group them in large masses to create waves of color amongst shrubs, ornamental grasses, or perennials.

An added bonus to including pansies or violets in the garden is that the flowers can be harvested and added as a colorful edible garnish to soups, salads, and desserts. They can also be candied for a sweet treat. If you plan on eating the flowers, raise them without chemical treatment.

Past International Herb Association Plants of the Year to also consider planting in your garden are parsley (Petroselinum), anise hyssop (Agastache ssp.), coriander/cilantro (Coriandrum sativum), and savory (Saturea ssp.).

For more information on gardening, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Staci Coussens, SNAP-Ed Educator, and Nick Frillman Local Food Systems and Small Farms Educator

When home gardens are bursting with an overabundance of fresh produce, growers start looking for ways to share their bounty. Backyard gardeners can help feed their community by donating fruits and vegetables to local food pantries.

Growers planning on donating to food distribution centers can take steps, even before they plant, to ensure they are providing safe, useable produce.

Connect with your local food pantry

Donating garden crops starts with connecting with a local food pantry. Donors can find a list of pantries that will accept produce at ampleharvest.org.

The pantry’s listing will show what produce is accepted and pantry distribution times. Contact information for the pantry manager is provided so donors can find out what the preferred drop-off time is.

The pantry manager can also advise on what produce is best to donate and what their pantry users like. Preference varies across the state, but the most popular fresh produce items at pantries are greens, peppers, and tomatoes.

If the pantry does not have a refrigerator, only produce that is safe to store at room temperature, such as potatoes and onions, can be donated. However, donors may be able to bring produce just before distribution time so it can be handed out on that day.

Grow with Good Agricultural Practices

Under the 1996 Bill Emerson Good Samaritan Food Donation Act, gardeners who donate fresh fruit and vegetables in good faith to nonprofit organizations for distribution to people in need from criminal and civil liability will not be held liable if someone becomes sick after eating the produce. Nick Frillman, Illinois Extension Local Foods Systems and Small Farms educator, says gardeners should follow good growing practices to reduce chances of food contamination.

Good Agricultural Practices, or GAP, is a set of guidelines created by the USDA that help to reduce the risk of microbial contamination in fruits, vegetables, and nuts and aims to make sure these foods are safe for you or anyone that receives your food donation to eat.

Gardeners planning on donating produce should pay attention to the major factors that affect food safety:

• Soil preparation
• Harvest handling and sorting
• Produce washing, packing, and storage.

Soil prepartion: Most gardeners do not use manure, but this is one of the most likely ways fresh produce is contaminated. Do not use animal manure or manure-based compost at least 120 days before planting in vegetable gardens. Instead, use finished compost, available in bulk from landscaping suppliers or in bags at garden centers.

All food safety concerns are important, but especially so for crops that are typically consumed raw, like greens, tomatoes, or melons. Outbreaks in particular with these types of crops often make the news because they don’t require cooking to be eaten. With crops like potatoes, cabbage, winter squash and others that are rarely consumed raw, there is some added protection because the cooking required to eat these foods kills pathogenic microbes.

Growers should take extra precautions with consumed-raw crops. Trellis tomato and pepper plants so that fruits do not have contact with the soil. Wash hands when working with crops, especially on harvest day.

Harvest and sorting: After harvesting crops, inspect them for things like insect damage, mold, yellow or off-color leaves, bugs, and rot. Creating a sorting station that is used to discard these types of things before continuing the harvest process. Do not let these items make it into the harvest bin.

Washing, packing, and storage: Make sure that the containers used to deliver food donations are washed with fresh, soapy water, scrubbed out, sanitized with a light food-grade sanitizer, rinsed, and dried. Produce put in dirty bins – or even clean bins that are still wet – are subject to bacterial contamination.

Washing is necessary for some crops and not for others. In fact, washing some vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, can increase the risk of food safety issues. Greens should be washed with fresh municipal tap water, or a water source that is regularly tested for bacteria.

For more information on gardening, donating produce, or finding a local food pantry, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Ken Johnson

Whether you started your first garden this year or are a veteran grower, we’re coming up on the heart of harvest season. One of the advantages of homegrown vegetables is that you can harvest produce at its peak quality and flavor.

But knowing when to harvest a crop can be difficult, especially if it’s your first time growing it.

General Harvest Tips

• Harvest in the morning: Almost all vegetables are best when harvested early in the morning. If you can’t harvest in the morning, keep produce out of direct sunlight and cool as soon as possible.
• Harvest when plants are dry: When it comes time to harvest your vegetables, make sure plants are dry. If you harvest while plants are wet, you risk spreading diseases. It’s also important to handle plants with care and avoid damaging them.
• Use pruners: Damaged areas can provide openings for diseases to enter. If the vegetables you are trying to harvest don’t easily come off, cut them off with a knife or pruners to avoid damaging the plant.

Snap or green beans should be picked when the pods are fully grown but before the seeds have started to get large. The beans should be crisp and snap easily. When picking, break off the stem above the cap and harvest frequently.

Cucumbers should be harvested before their skin turns yellow and the seeds become hard. The size of the cucumber will vary depending on the type. Pickling cucumbers are usually picked when they are between 2 and 6 inches long. Slicing pickles should be picked at 6 to 8 inches long and burpless should be 1 to 1½ inches in diameter and up to 10 inches long. Cucumbers develop quickly, so plants may need to be checked every other day.

Peppers can be harvested at any size. Green bell peppers are typically picked when they are mature and about 3 to 4 inches long, firm, and green. If you are growing colored bell peppers, wait until the fruits change color. One way to tell if the fruit is mature is that they will easily break off of plants when picked. Hot peppers can also be picked at any stage but are typically picked when fully ripe. The mature color of the fruit will be different depending on the variety.

Summer squash (straightneck, crookneck, or zucchini) should be harvested when they are small and tender. Pick when the fruits are 2 inches or less in diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. “When growing conditions are favorable, you may need to harvest every other day or daily,” Johnson says.

Winter squash (acorn, butternut, pumpkins) can be harvested when the fruits have turned a deep, solid color, no longer have a glossy appearance, and the rind is hard. Leave at least 2 inches of stem attached and harvest all squash before heavy frosts arrive.

Tomatoes are at their best quality when allowed to ripen on the vine. Tomatoes should be firm and fully colored. During hot conditions, 90°F, tomatoes will quickly soften, and color development is reduced. During these conditions, pick tomatoes when they begin to develop color and ripen them indoors. If plants still have fruit on them in fall, you can harvest mature green fruit before the first frost and ripen them indoors.  

For more information on vegetable gardening, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger

Summer may be the season for vacations, but if you can’t get away create your own backyard paradise with a tropical plant garden.

Tropical plants can be planted in the ground or in containers and overwintered inside. Treat tropical plants as annuals in the Illinois landscape.

Tropical plants are known to be heat-loving and enjoy the humidity we have in Illinois over the summer. When grown indoors, a humidifier can be a wise investment to replicate the environment they grow best in.

Some plants may be sensitive to direct sunlight, so be cautious in your site selection. Plants that prefer full sun may not get their intense coloring if the container is shaded at all.

Overwintering tropical plants is also an option, especially when grown in containers. Size may be a consideration as the size of the container may influence the size of your tropical plant. Pots of various sizes may be used but 24-to-36-inch diameter pots are a good start. Scout for pests before bringing plants indoors for overwintering.

The root zone is one of the most important parts of growing tropical plants. Bark-based commercial mixes do well for containers, especially when supplemented with a slow-release fertilizer and a water-retention agent. Water-absorptive materials such as sphagnum peat moss or coconut coir need to be balanced with good drainage. Add wood chips to the bottom of containers filled with potting mix.

Elephant ear is the common name of one tropical plant with big, broad leaves. The tuber or corm can be saved to be planted the next year. When planting, orient the corm or tuber correctly. Shoots are the first to emerge and should be planted upright.

Cannas are rhizomes and can have some spread. Many different types of foliage and flowers add to the beauty of this plant when in a container. Rhizomes may need to be divided as they enlarge over time.

Caladiums can make a strong visual statement with a range of colors from pure white to burgundy. This plant likes moist, shady locations. Enrich the soil with compost or humus to enhance the moisture and nutrient retention.

Tropical plants need regular maintenance. They need frequent watering when grown in containers and fertilizing with a slow-release fertilizer will allow them to grow to their fullest potential. Remove dead foliage or flowers and trim excess growth to aid in the health of the plant and keep plants balanced in the container with their counterparts.

Be sure to research the requirements and culture of the tropical plants you choose to grow. Use caution when selecting plants as some have toxic properties. For example, castor bean has toxic seeds.

To complete the tropical effect, considering adding tropical-looking hardy perennials. Clumping bamboo is a non-invasive option compared to other bamboo species.

For more information on tropical plant care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Nutrition and Wellness Educator Mary Liz Wright

Sour, sweet, bread and butter, Kosher dills, spears, chips, or slices on a sandwich, or as a snack or side dish – pickles are everywhere. For home gardeners with an abundance of cucumbers and other produce, pickling is a great way to preserve your bounty.

While cucumbers are one of the most commonly pickled items, many foods can be pickled says Mary Liz Wright, University of Illinois Extension nutrition and wellness educator.

Fruit, eggs, artichokes, mushrooms – you name it and it can probably be pickled.

Pickling is an ancient form of food preservation, dating back to 2030 BC when cucumbers from India were pickled in the Tigris Valley. The word “pickle” comes from the Dutch pekel or northern German pókel, meaning “salt” or “brine.”

The pickling process, for the most part, falls into two categories or methods: quick pickles and fermented pickles. Fresh pack or quick pickles are made with vinegar and salt solution or a vinegar and sugar solution. Fermented pickles require time and salt to do the preserving.

Every region of the world has its own form of pickling as a way to extend the life of fruits and vegetables before refrigeration. Eastern Europe has Kosher dills and lacto-fermented cabbage, known as sauerkraut. English sweet pickles are made with vinegar, sugar, and spices, while the French serve tiny, spiced cornichons or cucumbers. In the Middle East, pickled foods are served with every meal, from olives to lemons. Russians pickle tomatoes, and Koreans have spicy kimchi. The Japanese pickle plums and daikon radishes, and Italians pickle eggplants and peppers.

When selecting cucumbers for pickling, chose fresh and firm pickling cucumbers. Cut 1/16 inch off of the blossom end. Use these ingredients in recipes: canning or pickling salt, white granulated sugar or brown sugar, and vinegar with 5% acidity.

To learn more about how to pickle and to find recipes, visit Illinois Exension’s website go.illinois.edu/PicklingFoods. Wright also suggests exploring the National Center for Home Food Preservation at bit.ly/3LtK6sC. Or, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Refrigerator Pickles

These easy pickles can be made in minutes and will keep in your refrigerator for 3 to 4 weeks.

Ingredients

• Vegetables of your choice
• 3 Cups water
• 3 Cups white or apple cider vinegar (5% acidity)
• Pickling salt
• Sugar
• Dry herbs/spices (optional): Bay leaves, celery seed, chili peppers, cumin seed, dill seed, mustard seed, pickling spice, peppercorns, turmeric.
• Fresh herbs/spices (optional) jalapeno or habanero peppers, dill, garlic, oregano, shallot, horseradish.

1. Wash and chop your vegetables.
2. Select flavorings. Mix and match fresh or dried herbs and spices. Add up to 2 tablespoons per jar.
3. Pack the vegetables snugly into washed pint-sized canning jars or similar-sized glass or heatproof plastic containers with lids.
4. Make either a sweet or sour brine. Start with vinegar and water. For a sour brine add 3 Tbsp. canning/pickling salt and 2 Tbsp. sugar. For a sweet brine add 2 Tbsp. canning/pickling salt and 1 ½ cups sugar. Bring all the ingredients to a boil and let boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. This recipe yield 6 to 7 pints jars.
5. Carefully fill the jars with brine to within 1/2 inch of the top of the rim. Place the lids on the jars and refrigerate. Allow the flavor to develop for one to two days before serving. 

Source: University of Maine Cooperative Extension

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By retired Horticulture Educator Richard Hentschel

Experienced gardeners know where poison ivy is likely to be in the home landscape and newer gardeners will likely learn fast. Without knowing poison ivy is in the yard, it is all too easy to get the oils on your hands and clothing while clearing beds of otherwise harmless weeds says Richard Hentschel, University of Illinois Extension Horticulture educator. 

Until you can easily identify poison ivy, the adage of ‘leaves of three let it be’ are pretty good words to live by.

All parts of poison ivy have oil that gives us dermatitis; watery blisters are common. You can get poison ivy even in the winter when plants and vines are dormant. Thoroughly wash your skin with soap and water immediately after encountering the plant.

In the home landscape, it is best to remove poison ivy while it is small and before it begins to vine. Never burn poison ivy as the oils will be in the smoke. Young seedlings will die if pulled out and left to dry, handling them as little as possible.

Use a digger of your choice, so you do not come in contact with the plants and consider wearing an unlined rubber glove.

As a small seedling, poison ivy looks like many other immature weeds, not quickly recognizable. As it continues to grow, poison ivy will grow its characteristic three leaflets comprising a compound leaf and take on vining growth habit. As a vine, it can easily hide in a bed of ground covers, reaching out into the lawn from the edge of the woods, climbing up the house wall with the Boston ivy or other ornamental vines. Gardeners will also find it while pruning their shrubs.

Poison ivy has outstanding reds and oranges for fall color and is quite attractive. Look, but don’t touch.

With slightly bigger plants, gardeners could use a glyphosate pesticide product, but apply it carefully around valuable ornamentals.

When the poison ivy vine runs into a tree trunk, the vine develops brown aerial roots that can cling to the bark. Vines growing up the tree can be as small as a quarter of an inch to over 3 inches in diameter for a larger mature vine. In this third form and its mature stage as a tree-climbing vine poison ivy leaves can be 2 feet in size. This is where the vine begins to flower and fruit annually. Its berries are eaten by wildlife and later deposited along fence rows, beneath deciduous and evergreen tree canopies, and shrub borders.

 If you find yourself with a tree vine, the best control option is to carefully cut through the vine at the soil line. Leave the vine to dry in the tree.

For more information about managing poison ivy or other horticulture topics, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Nancy Kreith

Difficult growing conditions leave gardeners stumped when selecting plants. These planting areas may include alkaline soils, dry shade, over a septic tank, a large local deer population, and more.

Always consider the existing site conditions when selecting new plants for the garden. Look at soil conditions, sun exposure, and drainage. Develop a maintenance plan for weeding and watering while establishing plants for the first two years. 

Taking the time to choose plants that suit your unique growing situations can be intimidating, but your work at the start of the project will be rewarded with long-term success. No one likes having to constantly replant an area.

This plant list of trees, shrubs, grasses, and forbs for challenging site conditions to help ease time and efforts for home gardeners.

Alkaline soils: For soils that are alkaline, which is common in northern Illinois, aim for plants that are tolerant of a higher pH level and that will help combat nutrient deficiencies. Illinois native plant options include ironwood, chokecherry, bur oak, viburnum, yarrow, purple coneflower, and summer phlox. Other options include smokebush, panicle hydrangea, astilbe, clematis, coral bells, hosta, creeping phlox, and salvia.

Compacted soil: In urban areas, construction practices have compacted the soil and exposed clay soil from sub-base layers, but there are plants tolerant of these soils. Native plant options include black chokeberry, red osier dogwood, columbine, New England aster, blue false indigo, purple coneflower, rattlesnake master, wild geranium, blazing star, bergamot, wild quinine, gray headed coneflower, black-eyed Susan, little bluestem, golden alexander. Another option is stonecrop.

Septic tanks: Home gardeners should limit their use of water and avoid disturbing soil over septic tanks so chose low-maintenance plants with drought tolerance. Native plant options include butterfly weed, sideoats grama, purple coneflower, prairie smoke, blazing star, wild bergamot, beardtongue, little bluestem and prairie dropseed. Other options are fescue and sedum.

Deer: Deer populations are difficult to deal with and even tolerant plants get eaten from time to time. Protect plants with physical barriers after their initial installation. Deer will not eat many nonnative plants such as ageratum, wax begonia, heliotrope, sweet alyssum, daffodil, geranium, blue salvia, dusty miller, and lamb’s ear. Native options are purple coneflower and nannyberry viburnum.

For more information about plant selection, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Ryan Pankau

Download the factsheet

Nothing beats the light and airy look of tall, distinctive grasses in a landscape arrangement. The fluffy seedheads and slender, attractive stems practically dance in the wind on breezy days, adding texture as well as a structural element to any landscape bed.   

For many years, there was a trend toward non-native grasses. However, there is a growing interest in native prairie grasses, given their inherent adaptability to our climate and their ecological value.

Big Bluestem, Andropogon gerardii, is one of his favorites for its wonderful height, sometimes reaching up to 8 feet including the seedheads. It’s known for attractive, blue-green foliage and steams that fade to reddish-bronze in fall. Interesting seed heads develop late in the growing season and persist into winter.

Big bluestem fits well in the rear of a border planting or as a backdrop for other, shorter natives. It also works nicely in mass plantings or as a visual screen when planted in groups. It can be maintained as somewhat of a specimen when mixed into native plantings, although it does tend to slowly spread by rhizomes over time. Spread can be limited by other competing prairie plants or by periodic removal of spreading shoots.

Switchgrass, Panicum virgatum, is another very tall native grass used for both its ornamental appeal and its tough adaptability to a wide range of soil conditions. However, one issue with switchgrass is its innate ability to spread, either from rhizomes or by seed. For this reason, it’s probably better used in mass plantings or as a solid border to create visual screening. It works well in problem areas such as wet spots, areas with erosion or locations with some partial shade.

While switchgrass can have a really nice fall color, I think its seedheads provide the most interest. As seedheads mature and expand late in the growing season, they created a cloud-like effect with their open and airy form.

Little bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium, packs a ton of beauty into shorter stems and fluffier seedheads. Foliage and stems emerge with a deep blue-green color that matures to lighter green with reddish accents at stem nodes. In late summer, flowers begin to emerge as beautiful purplish-red structures that mature into fluffy tufts. Perhaps the plant’s greatest beauty lies in its wonderful fall color creating a spectacular reddish-purple color. Little bluestem works well as a more vertical component that is not overly tall at only 2 to 4 feet by the season’s end. It works well in a great variety of garden uses, from mass plantings to small pollinator pockets.

In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful and colorful of our native grasses, and it behaves well as it is slow to spread retaining a clump-like habit.

Another smaller native grass that works well in the landscape is prairie dropseed, Sporobolus heterolepis. While it does have interesting seed heads and nice fall color, this plant has most value in its fine-textured foliage during the growing season and much smaller size at around 2 feet in height. 

This is one of my favorite plants to add along a sidewalk or at the front edge of a native garden. It creates a welcoming and inviting view with its fine-textured, hair-like foliage that wonderfully frames the planting.

It’s a highly underused landscape plant that deserves more attention given its overall low maintenance requirements and well-behaved habit.

For more information about plant selection, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

-

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. Join the Gardener’s Corner email list for direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Bruce Black

Another Illinois winter has gone with the promise of spring to soon arrive. Garden catalogs have been arriving for months allowing gardeners to look forward to spring 2022 - the fresh air, energic wildlife, and the gardening. While many have already bought seeds and started to sow them, what if you’re just now thumbing through seed and plant catalogs looking for inspiration, warmth, and a new challenge?

Start by keeping good garden records from previous years to aid in the planning for the new spring. I always like to test a new plant or six, that is suited for USDA hardiness zone 5, which can sometimes be a challenge without a plan or a map.

After mapping out your existing perennials, think about what new plants could be added to your landscape and their space requirements. After covering this topic now for seven years, my starting place is the All-America Selections.

All-America Selections, AAS, is a non-profit organization that releases several trialed plants each year as AAS Winners. AAS tests new varieties every year at their private and public trial sites located around the United States and Canada. Currently, there are four trial locations in Illinois – three northern, and one central.

Independent judges, who are professional horticulturists in geographically diverse areas, evaluate trial entries against comparison plants. The results and observations are compiled, and winners are chosen. For the best plants suited to Illinois, look for Great Lakes winners or National winners on the AAS winners lists.

This year, there are 12 AAS Winners, 10 of which are suited for Illinois – six vegetables, one fruit, and three flowers.

National Vegetable Winners

• Eggplant Icicle F1, Solanum melongena var. Icicle F1: This is a white eggplant with fewer spines than other eggplants. The larger cylindrical fruits have fewer seeds. At 48 inches tall, it requires staking. It has 55 days to harvest from transplant. The plant spreads 28 inches.
• Lettuce Bauer, Lactuca sativa variety Bauer: Ideal for in-ground, containers, or raised beds. Uniform, compact, dense heads of dark green leaves. 58 days to harvest from seed and 34 days from transplant. Harvest at baby or full-sized leaves for enjoyment. An excellent candidate for controlled environments.
• Pepper Buffy F1, Capsicum frutescens variety Buffy F1: Good yielding, faster maturing, hot pepper with thick walls and 500,000 Scoville units. Upright, 28-inch plants with heat tolerance and ornamental value. It has 70 days to harvest from transplant.
• Pepper Dragonfly F1, Capsicum annuum variety Dragonfly F1: Purple, four-lobed, sweet bell peppers with thick walls. The purple color changes to red if it is left on the vine too long. Plant height is 24 inches to 36 inches. Each plant produces 40 peppers. It has 75 days to harvest from transplant.
• Tomato Purple Zebra F1, Solanum lycopersicum var. Purple Zebra F1: A sweet-leaning acidic tomato with disease resistance. It has green stripes on dark red thinner-skinned fruits. It has 80 to 85 days to harvest from transplant. Its upright growth habit requires staking. Each plant produces 150 to 200 tomatoes.

Regional (Heartland) Vegetable Winner

• Tomato Pink Delicious, Solanum lycopersicum variety Pink Delicious: A pink, early maturing, higher yielding, and beefsteak uniform tomato. Good disease resistance. Higher Brix (sugar) for a pink tomato. A 6-foot-tall upright climber with a 3-foot spread. It has 84 days to harvest from transplant.

Regional (Great Lakes) Vegetable Winner

• Watermelon Century Star F1, Citrullus lanatus variety Century Star F1: A 10-pound, round, seedless, spotted variety. Crisp melon with sweet flesh. Vines spread 9 feet to 11 feet. Bears two to three fruits per plant. It has 65 days to harvest from transplant and 75 days from seed.

Gold Medal Winners

• Begonia Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1, Begonia x hybrid variety Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1:  An annual, trailing begonia with rose-colored flowers that is excellent for hanging baskets and containers. Heat, weather, and disease tolerant. Pollinator friendly and 50 days to flower from transplant.
• Petunia Bee’s Knees, Petunia x hybrid variety Bee’s Knees: This is the first petunia Gold Medal winner in 72 years. It has lush yellow, non-fading flowers on green leaves and needs little maintenance with a mounding and trailing habit. It is an annual flower that is heat and rain tolerant and pollinator friendly.

National Flower Winner

• Sunflower Concert Bell F1, Helianthus annuus L variety Concert Bell F1: Sturdy and durable, Concert Bell F1 has multiple clusters of 10 to 12 annual flowers. It is a uniform height at 5 feet to 6 feet. It is earlier to flower than other sunflowers. Direct seed for a great landscape attraction or for cut flowers.

Looking for something else to fill in your landscape and gardens? The All-America Selections website, all-americaselections.org, contains a list of all past vegetables and flowers winners since its founding in 1933.

For more information about gardening, check out the Illinois Extension Horticulture website at extension.illinois.edu/global/horticulture or their YouTube channel at go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Mary Fischer

Download the Gardening with Pelleted Seed Infosheet

Have you noticed the windowed packets of seeds at garden centers with brightly colored “seeds”? These pelleted seeds are small or irregular seed that have a specialized inert coating applied to improve planting, spacing, and germination. Often the coating, which increases the weight and size of the seed, is colored which aids in planting several varieties of seed in one tray, a row in a garden, or a field. 

While pelleted seed was originally developed for commercial production with a mechanical seeder. Then, seed companies began producing pelleted seed for vegetables and flowers and seeds are now available at local garden centers and big-box stores.

History

Pelleted seed has been used intermittently since WWI. The improved pelleted seed was introduced for cereal seeds in the 1930s by a British seed company, Germains. In the 1940s, the U.S. used several types of pelleted seed in reforestation studies. The 1960s saw large-scale use of pelletized seed by commercial growers primarily for its ease of use with mechanical planters and new seed coating technologies. In the 1970s, California banned the use of short-handled hoes, increasing the use of pelleted or coated seeds.

Benefits of Pelleted Seed

Today, pelleted seed has many positive benefits for commercial productions and home gardeners. The coating protects seed from birds, rodents, and a wide range of environmental conditions that often lead to replanting. It reduces loss from needing to thin plants.

Precise spacing requires less seed, and since the seed is coated and visible, less seed will be used saving gardeners money. 

For large-scale producers, it is easier for specific applications like aerial dropping or mechanical seeders. There are nutrient benefits with increased oxygen availability. The coating allows for pre-inoculation of legume seeds. Since chemicals are applied to the seed and not the whole field, application is safer and there is a lower cost of agricultural chemicals.

One obstacle to widespread adoption of pelleted seed has been the ability of the coating to split open once it is hydrated allowing oxygenated moisture to reach the seed. New levels of coating densities for commercial growers has overcome that issue.

Meghan Shinn has two precautions when using pelleted seed in a March 1, 2020 article from Horticulture Magazine. First, the growing medium needs to remain consistently moist, but not soggy, after the seed is sown. Secondly, all the pelleted seed must be used in the season it is purchased. This should not be a problem with most home gardeners as seed packets contain smaller amounts of seed.

How to Use Pelleted Seed

Pelleted seed is very easy to use. The colored coating allows a home gardener to see the seed as it is planted, the seed spacing, and where it is planted before covering with soil. If a home gardener is starting seed in a tray for transplant later, pelleted seed makes it easier to identify the different types of seed as it is planted.

How to Make Seed Tape

Another method of planting pelleted seed is to make your own seed tape. This is quite easy to do using single-ply toilet paper and glue.

1. Simply tear off a length of toilet paper to fit the garden plot. Fold it in half lengthwise and cut into two pieces. Fold each length in half longways and open.
2. Following the recommended spacing on the seed packet, place small dots of glue at the appropriate distance to one side of the fold, then add a seed.
3. Once the entire length has been planted, fold the other side over the seed side.
4. This tape can be wrapped around an empty paper towel roll and labeled for later use.
5. When ready to plant, prepare the garden bed, lay the tape on the bed, and cover it to the proper depth as directed on the seed packet.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle

Growing food is not limited to outdoors in the summer. With some planning, you can grow food indoors throughout the year.

Before starting an indoor kitchen garden, it is essential to think about what you want to gain by growing food indoors. You might wish to have herbs to give recipes a special touch or boost nutrition for added health benefits.

Keep in mind the amount of work you want to put into your indoor garden, schedules including your daily routine and time away, and whether your plants will be only indoors or transferred to outside during nice weather. 

Light Needs

The limiting factor for growing plants indoors is light. Three aspects of light must be considered when planning to grow an indoor garden – light intensity, duration, and quality.

Most plants grown for food need intense, bright light. A south-facing window is a good location for natural light exposure for plants.

Many plants are sensitive to changes in the time they are exposed to light. Light duration affects their growth, flowering, and setting fruit. Supplemental light during the short days of winter will ensure the plants get light for the required time. Plants also need times of darkness. A timer is a helpful tool to help you deliver the proper duration of light to your plants.

Light quality refers to the color of the light. In general, blue-green light is required for plants to have healthy growth. Red-orange light is necessary for flowering and fruit. Sunlight has all the colors of light. 

Supplemental light varies depending on the source. Fluorescent lights give off light in the blue spectrum. Incandescent light is in the red/orange spectrum and gives off heat. It is not essential to buy expensive lights for an indoor garden but to understand how to use light resources effectively.

Water, Air, Soil and Pollination

Providing the proper amount of water is critical for an indoor garden. Check the soil for moisture to determine when to water. It is best to keep the soil profile consistently moist. Too wet or too dry can cause stress to the plant.

Good air circulation around plants helps to prevent fungus and disease problems.

Sterile potting media is a good choice for an indoor kitchen garden. Start your garden without worrying about disease or insect pests. Choose media that drains well to help plants thrive.

Wind and insects pollinate food plants outdoors but are lacking in indoor spaces. Some plants such as tomatoes can be pollinated by shaking them to mimic the wind, while others such as strawberries need to have the pollen transferred by hand to mimic insects. 

Indoor herb options:

• oregano
• Thyme
• Lemongrass
• Chives
• Mint

The first four thrive in bright light, but do not tolerate overwatering. Only water when the top of the soil is dry. Growth can be slow during the winter, so harvest leaves sparingly until new leaves form. Mint can tolerate less light and more water. Keep some on hand to add to teas or desserts.

Indoor fruit and vegetable options:

• Lettuce
• Microgreens
• Tomatoes
• Citrus trees
• Alpine strawberries

A variety of lettuce can be successfully grown indoors. Scatter seeds evenly across moist soil media and lightly cover. Lettuces thrive in cooler temperatures and need less light than other edible plants. Microgreens are packed with nutrition. These delicate plants are best grown indoors where environmental conditions can be controlled.

Patio varieties of tomatoes and citrus trees can be grown in pots with bright light and moist soil. Keep in mind that these plants will need some help with pollination for fruit to form. 

Alpine strawberries can grow well in a bright, cool space out of direct light. For fruit, hand pollination is necessary. 

There are so many options for growing an indoor kitchen garden. Try one or more to have fresh, nutrient-filled food all year long. 

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn

Culinary herbs are a favorite of many gardeners. They are easy to grow as they require little care, have few insect and disease problems, and generally prefer moderate fertility levels. In addition, they add fragrance and beauty to the garden. Many herbs such as lavender, sage, and purple basil, are very ornamental and combine nicely in flower or vegetable gardens. 

Now is the time to plan what herbs you will plant this spring. First consider what herbs you use in food dishes, then consider which herb plants will add texture, color, and fragrance to your garden.

Seeds and plants can be mail ordered and most can be purchased locally. Herbs such as dill, cilantro, and basil are easy to grow from seed. Lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme are easily grown from purchased plants.

Mint and oregano are easy to divide, so ask a fellow gardener for a start of their plant.

Herb care

Throughout the growing season, herbs do need some attention including weeding, watering, and harvesting. Weeding takes persistence. If planted in a garden, most established herb plants don’t need additional watering. However, when rainfall is less than 1 inch per week, additional moisture may be needed. The key is to avoid overwatering as herb plants do not like wet feet.

Harvesting Herbs

Harvesting of herbs can be done throughout the growing season. Throughout the summer, annual herbs grown for their leaves such as basil, summer savory, and sweet marjoram, should be cut back leaving approximately 6 inches of stem and leaves. Cut back the stem to just above a leaf or pair of leaves. Most annual leafy herbs don’t survive frost or freezing. So, if frost is predicted, remove as much of the plant as you desire for preserving. 

Dill and cilantro are annual herbs grown for both leaves and seeds. For a continual supply of fresh leaves, reseed every two weeks. If growing for seeds allow the plant to mature before harvesting. Collect seed heads as they turn a light brown. Place seed heads upside down in a paper bag. Allow to dry for about two weeks and shake seeds off stems before removing stems from the bag.

Prune leafy perennial herbs such as sage, rosemary, thyme, and oregano by removing one-third of the top growth at a time. Avoid heavy prunings of perennial herbs after the beginning of September. In the fall, plants that will overwinter, need to start shutting down. Heavy pruning will promote new growth which keeps a plant actively growing. 

Herbs are best used fresh, however, most can be dried or frozen for later use. Before preserving herbs, wash them to remove dirt and other particles.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Christopher Enroth

Over the years, there has been a growing demand for organic-based fertilizers to use in the garden and landscaping. There are of course ways to manufacture these organic fertilizers, but what if we could use a byproduct of the manufacture of a different product? It is an efficient use of our natural resources and perhaps even creates a sustainable source.

Byproduct fertlizer

This has given rise to many different types of organic fertilizers appearing on the market that are the “leftovers” of some other type of industry.

For instance, corn gluten meal is an organic fertilizer that is a byproduct of the corn milling industry. Milorganite is a hybridized trade name of an organic fertilizer. “Mil” means Milwaukee, “orga” shortened from organic, and “nite” for nitrogen. Though I was originally taught “nite” came from the term “night soil” which is human waste. Milorganite fertilizer is made of biosolids from treated sewer sludge from the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District.

What is Fish Emulsion Fertlizer?

And then there is fish emulsion. Fish emulsion is the leftover liquid from the fish meal and fish oil industry.

To get a picture of fish emulsion think back to or look up the Saturday Night Live video of Dan Aykroyd hawking his Super Bass-o-Matic ‘76. With the help of a blender, some water, and a dead fish, Aykroyd made a fish emulsion.

Of course, some other items go into processing fish emulsion, like straining out solid pieces and adjusting the pH so the product doesn’t spoil in the container, but it is for the most part liquified fish. 

What the Research Says

There are many unverified claims on the magic of fish emulsion. Some will say to soak seeds in this product for better germination rates. Initial studies show this not to be true. Others note to use this as a foliar spray for plants to absorb nutrients directly into their leaf tissue for big yields. Again, studies of sweet peppers show no difference in yield when using fish emulsion foliar sprays.

Fish Emulsion is an Effective Fertlizer

Fish emulsion has been shown to be effective as a fertilizer. While nutrient ratios may vary, a typical fish emulsion may have nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) rates of 2-4-1 and the micronutrients calcium, magnesium, sulfur, chlorine, and sodium.

A possible benefit of fish emulsion, and many of the organic-based fertilizers, is that they offer protein to feed our soil microorganisms, which may help to build a more robust soil food web resulting in improved plant health for the long term.

Then, there is the issue of the odor.

A liquid fish emulsion smells, well like blended up fish. I now avoid using it on houseplants, after applying it once and booting the plants outside after a day of playing the game ‘Find the Smell!’ 

Outdoors the odor is of little consequence. However, the raccoons took a very keen interest in why I was hiding dead fish in my outside containers and proceeded to dig in each pot on my patio. While this is not established research, over time several people have called the Illinois Extension office about raccoons digging in pots. After investigation, there does seem to be a trend of fish emulsion fertilizer use and mischievous raccoons.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Gemini Bhalsod

Spring ephemeral flowers are nature’s gems after winter. These short-lived beauties are wildflowers that grow in woodlands in the early spring before the leaves on deciduous trees are open. They are called spring ephemerals because they have a relatively short blooming time.

These seasonal plants grow, flower, and set seed relatively quickly. They are usually dormant by mid-summer when the leaves die back again. In your garden one moment and gone another.

Spring ephemerals complete most of their life cycle in the early spring before the trees and understory shrubs leaf out and take over most of the available light. These plants start growing roots in the fall and winter, to fully emerge above ground in the spring. This time of year is a tough time to be a growing plant – soil temperatures are low, the weather is unpredictable, and there are just a few pollinators foraging.

As temperatures increase and sunlight becomes less available in the late spring and summer, growth slows down, nutrients are stored underground, and the plants begin to die back.

There is some conflicting information and opinions out there as to whether spring ephemerals are just a special type of spring flower or if they are a spring bulb. One major difference, with a few exceptions, is that ephemeral foliage dies back in the early summer while the foliage of spring bulbs lasts longer.

How to Grow Spring Ephemerals

With the right location, gardeners can grow spring ephemerals in their yards. Since a lot of spring ephemerals can be slow to grow and spread, plant them in groups to have a sense of fullness.

Plant in high organic matter areas that mimic a woodland; no fertilizer is needed. Water only during establishment or in times of drought. Leaf die back is normal.

Many nurseries sell spring ephemerals these days due to their increased popularity. Planting seeds can be a less expensive, but slower approach and you’ll have to break the dormancy of the seed before it grows. Nurseries sell potted plants in the spring and fall. If it’s a little later in the spring, the above ground portion of the plant might look yellow, but the root mass is still alive.

Never collect plants in the wild as it is illegal, and can really disrupt natural habitat. 

Plants bought online that are mailed, they will likely be dormant with bare roots. There will be no top growth and they are usually packed in moist packing material. Plant them right away.

• Skunk Cabbage, Symplocarpus foetidus, is one of the earliest spring ephemerals that emerges in February. There are tiny yellow flowers held on a spadix inside of a purple flower. The plant attracts carrion flies as pollinators. After it flowers, large smooth cabbage-like leaves develop.
• Dutchman’s Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria, is a distinct plant that flowers in April. It gets its common name because the individual blossoms resemble pants, or ‘breeches.’ Leaflets are feathery and fern-like and it is pollinated by bees.
• Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum, has very distinctive flower and seeds. The outside of the flower could be green, or purple striped. After flowering in June, the flower turns into a cluster of green berries which are persistent until they ripen into a bright red in early fall for birds to eat.
• Virginia Bluebells, Mertensia virginica, appear in March. These plants are known for spreading into masses of flowers. Clusters of bell-shaped purplish flowers stand over the foliage and the plant quickly dies back after blooming.
• Mayapples, Podophyllum peltatum, grow in large dense colonies that spread through rhizomes. The large bowl-shaped white flower grows under the umbrella shaped, glossy leaves. It grows in part-to-full shade and blooms from April to May. They tolerate drier soil conditions and short periods of drought, especially when flowering is complete.
• Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis, blooms are very fleeting, sometimes lasting only a few days. It has a vibrant white flower with green-lobed leaf at the base. The rhizomes have an orange-red color when cut. Leaves can stick around throughout the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Kelly Allsup

Trees are natural caretakers – their limbs provide shade and shelter, their seeds and leaves provide food, their roots filter water. Insect scientists have another skill to add to the list – a haven for caterpillars. Entomologists are asking gardeners, homeowners, and landscapers to stop mowing and instead add permanent plantings under tree canopies to help moths and butterfly caterpillars survive.

Biologist, pollinator conservationist, and award-winning author Heather Holm describes these plantings as soft landings for insects. Once the caterpillar of a moth or butterfly eats its fill of tree leaves, most of the time it drops to the ground to pupate. It may burrow into leaf litter or the ground.

However, most people leave grass under trees, which has to be mowed. This creates an ecological trap preventing butterflies and moths from reaching adulthood.

A soft landing is critical under certain trees such as oak, willow, cherry, pines, and poplars. These keystone species trees feed a lot of species of butterfly and moth caterpillars. According to famed entomologist and author Doug Tallamy, oak trees support 534 species of lepidoptera, the insect order containing butterflies and moths, and black cherry supports 456 species. One of Illinois’ most well-known moths, the Polyphemus moth, feeds on oak and black cherry trees.

Erin Garrett, Energy and Environmental Stewardship Extension educator, asks homeowners to picture the habitat around one of their trees.

“Is the lawn under that tree a safe space to be? No, it isn’t,” Garrett says. “With leaves raked up or mowed, and lawn grass mowed weekly, those caterpillars do not have a safe space to develop.”

These soft landings do more than prevent lawnmowers from running over pupating butterflies and moths, they also provide habitat for other beneficial insects such as bumblebees, fireflies, lacewings, and beetles.  

To create a soft landing, first, figure out if your tree’s roots are sensitive to disturbance. We would never want to harm roots on a tree. Severing even one major root can cause the loss of 15% to 25% of the root system according to the International Society of Arboriculture. Those with sensitive trees should apply properly mulched rings. 

If a soft landing is appropriate, smother grass with wet newspaper or mulch. Add compost 2 inches deep compost starting 18 inches from the trunk and ending at the dripline, or the overhead canopy, of the tree.

Use small plugs of groundcovers or seed mixed with small spring-flowering bulbs such as grape hyacinth, crocus, winter aconite, snow drops, or Siberian squill.

Although most bulbs thrive in full sun, it is a myth that you cannot grow spring-flowering bulbs in shady areas because bulbs have bloomed before trees fully leaf out.

Plants for dry shaded areas

These plants, which are available in flats as small plugs, are appropriate as a soft landing ground cover in dry shade.

Lamium has silver variegated leaves with showy purple, pink or white flowers that bloom from May to July. It grows 6 to 9 inches tall and has a 2- to 3-foot spread. When planting, it is best to space plugs 18- to 24 inches apart. This plant is resistant to deer munching.

Pachysandra is an evergreen of whorled glossy leaves that blooms white in April. This plant grows 6 to 12 inches high and spreads 12 inches. Leave plugs 12 inches apart. It will need to be thinned once it is well established to prevent disease. It is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Epimedium has compound heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems that turn red in the fall. It boasts attractive flowers of red or yellow in May. It grows 12- to 14 inches tall and spreads about 18 inches. It can be slow growing but is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Blue Sedge spreads quickly and combats weeds. The bluish-greenish foliage forms a nice mound and blooms mid-June to mid-July. This ground cover furthers contributing to the biodiversity by hosting skipper butterfly caterpillars and providing seed for birds.

Plants for wet shaded areas

Wild ginger is a native ground cover with a kidney shaped leaf that blooms in April at the base of the plant. When looking, you will find a purple cup-shaped flower that is usually covered by the foliage. It grows 6- to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It is resistant to deer.

Sweet Woodruff has a delicate leaf but is a mat-forming ground cover that blooms white in late spring. It grows 8 to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It has fragrant flowers and foliage that smells like fresh-cut hay when crushed. It can be planted under black walnut trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Christina Lueking

Willow trees are most well known for their long, draping branches that give them a refined and graceful appearance. That is unless it is a corkscrew willow.

The unique branching and twisting features of the Salix genus curly willow not only adds visual interest to the winter landscape but it can also be harvested and used for unique decorative arrangements says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Christina Lueking.

Curly willow has beautifully curled branches that have led to some crazy common names such as corkscrew willow, twisted willow, and snake willow. 

Site Selection

Woody varieties generally prefer fertile, well-drained soil and full sun throughout the day. However, willows are a perfect fit for filter strips between annual crops or wet areas with their mature branches that are upright with a few sweeping younger branches that droop until they become more mature. These trees are easily propagated and can have a long lifespan as a sculptural element in the landscape or a garden bed.  

The fall leaves turn a golden yellow color before dropping to show off the brilliantly colored burgundy or golden stems. Prune these stems to 3-foot-long sections and use the results in winter decorations.

Decorative Qualities

These sturdy bundles can be molded into round wreaths, heart-shaped designs, or even free flowing sculptures in vases with white lights. Have fun enhancing your décor or arrangements with this unique willow.

Harvest of branches can range from a few feet on shrubs to several feet on mature trees. Branches can be used as a fresh or dry product in floral arrangements. Remember to mold stems while they are pliable and bundle them with wire before they dry. It is harder to shape stems if they are completely dried.

Pests and Disease

Pests that like to feed on the leaves of the willow are aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, lace bugs, caterpillars, willow leaf beetles. The willow borer drills into the trunks and creates tunnels and the adults emerge to feed on the tissue of the branches.

Scout willows to spot infestations that can be controlled by pruning the heavily infested areas and disposing of the cuttings. The areas can then be sprayed with neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Willow trees do have a couple of disease issues including crown gall and willow scab. But with scouting and mulching you can be proactive in controlling these issues.

For more information on tree care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Ryan Pankau

Every spring, magnolia trees across the Midwestern landscape offer some of the most spectacular flowering displays of any woody plant. These beautiful ornamental trees, native to Asia, are some of the first landscape plants in our area to deliver such a showy display; truly one of the most endorsing signs that spring is finally here.

Most of Illinois’ native, deciduous trees are primarily wind-pollinated and many bloom even earlier than magnolias, although often unnoticed by many of us says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Ryan Pankau. Their strategy is to produce a lot of pollen in the hopes that wind dispersion will spread their genes far and wide. Wind pollinated species do not need a showy display to attract pollinating animals or human attention. They typically lack aroma and nectar which, along with color, are the primary means plants use to attract pollinators to their flowers. 

Since most of our native trees, like oak, ash, and maple, evolved flowers for wind pollination, they are largely unnoticed during flowering.

Their smaller, low-key flowers are not designed to be colorful or attractive, but rather to allow tons of pollen to freely float away on the wind. Their pollen producing structures, called anthers, are often loosely attached, and hang down to dangle in the wind. 

Magnolias evolved a different strategy for pollination. Their flowers are quite showy, produce nectar, and have fragrance, all in the effort to attract insects. They invest more energy in these insect-attracting traits than pollen production, generating much less pollen per flower than their wind-pollinated cousins. 

The interesting twist with magnolias is that their genus Magnoliais quite ancient, evolving very early in the plant family tree, earlier than our native flowering trees. They are considered to be among the oldest of the flowering plants.

At the time of their evolution, many common pollinators we think of today, such as bees, butterflies, and moths had not evolved yet. As a result, magnolias developed flowers for pollination by beetles and flies, which were the primary insect pollinators 100 million years ago.

Magnolia flowers are relatively simple when compared to other, more specialized flowers. Pollen structures are arranged so that insects searching for a nectar reward will haphazardly bump into them and subsequently spread pollen as they amble from flower to flower. 

Flightless beetles were the primary constituents of magnolia flowers millions of years ago as they evolved and are often considered “dumb pollinators.” These poor insects get a bad rap because they cannot perform more advanced behaviors of butterflies and other pollinators that evolved later as the plant-pollinator relationship became more complex.  Butterflies and other “smarter” pollinators can perform advanced tasks, such as extraordinary feats of flower manipulation, to harvest pollen.

The lowly beetle, which receives a ton of credit for the early development of magnolia flowers, is left to dumbly wander from flower to flower. The process of co-evolution between flowering plants and insects is considered one of the most intricate multi-species evolutionary processes on earth.  When plants evolved flowers, it was a game-changer for plant reproduction. So, there is no reason to totally discount beetles as “dumb” since magnolia flowers would not be possible without these grunts of the pollinator world.

Consequently, magnolias evolved to accommodate their “less educated” pollinators with some specially tailored adaptations. Beetle mouthparts are made primarily for chewing, not pollen collection from delicate flower parts. Thus, other plant parts are often consumed in the process of harvesting pollen or nectar from the flowers.

Magnolia flowers have leathery, thick leaves along with seeds that are well protected to handle this kind of sloppiness.

Magnolias and their beetle friends are certainly an odd couple in the plant and insect world. However, their relationship has worked out wonderfully to produce some of our most exquisite flowering ornamental trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Emily Swihart

Life does not exist without water. Gardens don’t grow without water. But what happens when there is too much of a good thing? Or when that good thing is mismanaged and becomes a misfortune. Or when there are prolonged periods of drought?

The tale of stormwater is more frequently a story of feast or famine. Managing this resource onsite can have ripple effects downstream and throughout the watershed.

Rain gardens, bioswales, permeable pavement, are all methods to slow stormwater and prevent floods.

How Water Naturally Moves

Before Illinois was settled, it was covered in diverse ecosystems of prairies, woodlands, and wetlands. These features were connected through a vast network of river valleys and stream corridors. When rain fell, nearly all the water was absorbed into the soil where it was available for plant use or slowly percolated into groundwater.

Water that travels through the soil profile does so at a slower rate than water flowing on the surface. Water is cooled and filtered while traveling through the ground on its way to being discharged in a natural spring. The water that did exit the site as surface runoff, did so slowly, having to weave in and out of the stems of plant materials, minimizing the potential for erosion and flash flooding.

As human populations grew, large portions of natural ecosystems were converted into impermeable surfaced areas of rooftops, roads, and parking lots. Stormwater that falls on these areas cannot infiltrate into the soil, nor does it leisurely travel downslope. Stormwater on impermeable surfaces is quickly whisked away, traditionally toward a storm sewer.

Build with Green Infrastructure

In large storm events, communities with combined storm and sanitary sewer systems can become overwhelmed and flood.

Managing stormwater by channeling it can help minimize local flooding or water ponding but can compound challenges downstream. Furthermore, stormwater that is removed is no longer available during dry weather.

“Green infrastructure” systems more effectively manage stormwater and can help reduce runoff and capture rainwater onsite or close to where it falls. Many of these systems are beautiful and can easily be incorporated into existing landscapes. Multiple systems can be utilized for increased impact.

• Rain gardens are a depression or shallow basin planted with native species to capture runoff from an identified source and hold it temporarily until the water slowly filters out. Most native plant species have vast root systems that penetrate deep into the soil profile and encourage water infiltration. Properly designed and installed rain gardens do not hold water for long periods of time. Rain gardens can be beautifully designed and can incorporate steppingstones for access, sculptures for aesthetic appeal, or a wide variety of plant forms for a personalized effect.
• Bioswales, or stormwater swales, are similar to rain gardens. These shallow channels move water offsite. By design, the low slope and intentionally selected plant material move water slowly over the surface, increasing infiltration and filtering out contaminants prior to reaching a stream or storm sewer.
• Permeable pavement or pavers allow water to move through the hardscape into a gravel layer beneath. Water can be stored in the gravel until it is evaporated back into the atmosphere, it can move through the subsurface slowly before discharging into a storm sewer or can be removed from the site through a pipe into a rain garden or bioswale.
• Rain barrels and cisterns are containers that capture and store stormwater. Retained water is available for use during dry periods, typically to water landscape plants.

Incorporating green infrastructure into a home landscape is an excellent way to enhance aesthetic appeal while helping to better manage water resources. For more information, get in touch with horticulture staff at your local Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

Vermicomposting or vermiculture, which is also known as worm farming, is the practice of keeping worms to produce worm castings or vermicompost. Vermicomposting is a natural process where worms digest organic matter and produce a waste product that is high in plant-available nutrients, beneficial microbes, and organic matter.

Gardeners have been using vermicompost to improve soil and plant health for decades which is why it’s known as black gold.

Worm farmers often prefer to keep their worm bins outdoors or in an outbuilding. This is fine during the warm season as long as they are kept out of direct sunlight. However, in the months of winter, extra measures are needed to ensure the current worm population’s survival. 

Larger compost bins will maintain more of their internal heat and will give a deeper space for worms to migrate into if it gets a little too cold; smaller bins will need more protection. If you plan on keeping your bins outside, they can be insulated with blankets, burlap, straw, insulation foam, or other material as long as some gaps are left for air. If worms are kept outside and insulated, they will need less food over the winter months. The typical rate of feeding is 1lb of scraps per 1lb of worms a day, but in colder temperatures, this will be significantly reduced.

Another good option is to bring the bin indoors, where it will be much easier to maintain a steady temperature above 55°F. If worms will be stored in a garage or cold basement, keep them off cold floors. With proper safety precautions, a seed starter heating pad or space heater can be used to maintain temperatures and avoid freezing.

Easier yet, keep worm bins inside where they can be kept in a heated basement or closet.

The most recommended species of worm for vermicomposting, Red Wrigglers (Eisenia foetida), are most active at temperatures between 55°F to 77°F. While worms don’t exactly hibernate, they do slow down at cooler temperatures and will die when it gets close to freezing which is why it’s important to maintain a minimum temperature of around 55°F.

A great way to keep an eye on the temperature of the bin is to use a compost thermometer, which is great for other compost projects as well.

Worm bins should not smell bad. If they do, it usually means they are being overfed or there is too much moisture in the bin.

It’s also important to check on them every week or so to ensure they have adequate bedding and moisture. Due to the drier air conditions in winter, the bedding which typically consists of shredded paper or cardboard should be spritzed with water and moved around a bit to ensure airflow and moisture.

Whether keeping worms outdoors or bringing them in for the winter months, keeping them warm is key to having a happy worm that will produce nutrient-rich vermicompost for your garden.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Gemini Bhalsod, horticulture educator.

After this year’s summer drought in Illinois, it is more important than ever to monitor soil moisture conditions and water trees and shrubs going into winter. Drought conditions in the late fall, along with dry air and low soil moisture, can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided.

If soil is dry, homeowners should consider watering their trees and shrubs this fall and winter. Plants under water stress are more susceptible to insects and diseases. They can also experience injuries to roots or foliage.

Before watering, check the soil moisture. Monitor the moisture levels about once a week. Dig a small hole under the tree's drip line, 4 to 6 inches is enough. Feel for moisture. If the soil is dry, the tree should be watered. This little bit of consistent effort will pay off in the long run.

In particular, newly fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials should be monitored and watered late into the season, since they do not have as much time to develop extensive root systems as anything planted in the spring.

Pay attention to evergreens and shallow-rooted trees such as birches and maples. Some shallow-rooted trees can be identified by roots breaking the surface of the soil. Evergreens do not go dormant in the winter and are still actively respiring and lose water through their needles. Dormant trees respire at lower rates. Since soil insulates and cools down later in the year than the air temperature, roots stay warmer longer and respire at higher rates than the above-ground parts, the trunk, and branches, of deciduous trees after their leaves drop.

Only water when the temperature is above 40°F. In some places, that could be as late as the end of December. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because at this point the trees cannot absorb water through the frozen soil. 

To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water. Soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. This method results in less runoff and the water is more likely to be absorbed by the root zone. If your hose is stored away and your tree or shrub is small, pour water very slowly or drill a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill that with water.

Water at the tree’s drip line and not right against the base. To conserve water, start with newly planted trees and shrubs weekly and then large and established trees once a month if it is a dry period.

Avoid fertilizer, which stimulates late-season growth, and instead, consider applying mulch. Mulch can help conserve moisture over the winter months. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the base of the tree all the way to the drip line in a doughnut shape around the trunk, leaving 2-to 4 inches of space in between. As always, planting hardy species or cultivars with deep roots is best since they are more likely to be able to survive temperature fluctuations and prolonged periods of cold. 

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Bruce J. Black, horticulture educator

Winter is that time of year where gardeners rest and plan for spring. But with the holidays, why not make loved ones plant gifts?

Impossible bottles, or bottles with an object inside that doesn’t seem like it can fit through the bottle’s mouth, have been things of wonder throughout history with ships or decks of cards being built inside bottles. Bottle terrariums are similar feats of wonder using plants. Terrariums are either tightly closed or open transparent containers with plants inside. Credited for inventing terrariums, Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward used hermetically sealed glass containers with soil inside to better observe the change of the chrysalis of sphinx moths.

Bottle terrariums are a creative way to use plants. Recycling old bottles and turning them into works of art is fun and easy.

When designing a bottle terrarium there are a few questions to think about first. Will it be an open or closed terrarium? What type of container is wanted? What is the theme? What plants –tall or small –will be used? Are there any additional decorations?

Closed terrariums will act like a greenhouse and be a mini-ecosystem. Bottle terrariums with caps, corks, or tightly fitting lids will trap the moisture inside where it will cycle. Open containers are more of a display allowing for larger and taller plants.

Any transparent container can be used as a terrarium. Glass and plastic are the two most common mediums. Besides bottles, commonly used items are fish bowls, fish tanks, jugs, jars, or light bulbs.

The best part is coming up with a theme. Developing a theme based on an event, season, movie, or genre can help to tell a story and make your terrarium unique.

To build a terrarium, first, start off with a drainage material such as gravel or stones. This allows water to pool without soaking the soil. When using foraged rocks or shells, boil them for five minutes at a rolling boil to sterilize them and prevent disease or insect issues. Allow them to cool before using.

Add activated charcoal to help eliminate chemicals that could harm the plants. Activated charcoal can be found at garden centers. It absorbs any unwanted chemicals that would be taken up by the plant and harm it. Next, add a pre-moistened potting mix suitable for the chosen plants. The gravel, activated charcoal, and potting mix should make up about a quarter of the container volume.

Many plant types such as Kalanchoe, Sempervivum, Crassula, Echeveria, Sedum can be used in terrariums. To add the plants, skewers, pipe cleaners, and long-handled tweezers may be needed depending on the size of the container’s opening. When placing plants, don’t let the foliage touch the sides of the container and wipe any debris off plants with a clean paintbrush.

Clean any figures, toys, glass, pebbles, or ceramic structures with an alcohol or 10% bleach solution and allow them to dry. Dried flowers or wood may also add to the story. Supplies can be purchased from dollar stores, craft shops, and local garden centers.

To care for the new terrarium, place it near a south or western facing window or near supplemental lighting, not in direct light. Most terrarium plants are in the medium-light requirement category. Watering will vary. Closed, tightly sealed containers will only need to be watered every four to six months. Wilting plants and bottles with no condensation are a sign watering is needed.

Open containers need to be watered more often depending on humidity levels in the home. For maintenance, don’t overwater, remove any dying leaves, turn the container weekly to keep plants growing normally, and prune or pinch plants that get tall.

Making terrariums is a great family or friends’ activity. I enjoy making them with youth and they make great gifts with the holidays coming up.

For more information, watch a Creating a Bottle Terrarium webinar at go.illinois.edu/BottleTerrarium.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator

With their vibrant, floral displays and low-maintenance needs, holiday cacti are a great holiday gift. Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cactus are each different species. They bloom reliably each year without much upkeep. 

Every December, one plant in my office comes to life despite the minimal care it receives. The plant has remained in the 6-inch pot for nine years now, receives water when it is dry, and has been used prolifically in propagation workshops for Master Gardeners.

Holiday cacti are easily distinguished by the stem margins as well as timing of flowering. These cacti don't have true leaves; instead, they have flattened stem segments that are used in propagation to grow new plants.

Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn says holiday cacti are the gift that keep on giving. They are often passed down from generation to generation as family heirlooms because they are so long-lived. 

Thanksgiving cactus, Schlumbergera truncate, has two to four saw-toothed projections resembling crab claws. Flowers are produced from late November to late December. Flower colors include white, red, lavender, salmon, orange, and yellow.

Thanksgiving cacti are often forced into bloom and sold at Christmas time, and are often misnamed Christmas cacti. 

Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera x buckleyi, has scalloped or rounded stem margins. Flowers are generally showy from late December through March. The flowers form at the tips of segments.

Easter cactus, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, has four to six rounded teeth along the stem edges and brownish hairs at the leaf tips. Flowers in shades of pink or red flowers appear March through May. Easter cactus may re-bloom.

Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti blooms are triggered by day length. They bloom when they receive 12 to 15 hours of darkness a day for five to six weeks and are exposed to cool night temperatures.

Holiday cacti are commonly used to demonstrate propagation because leaf cuttings, rather than stem cuttings, can be used to generate new plants. However, cacti do not have true leaves. The leaves are actually stems called cladophylls.

Despite being a cactus, these plants are native to the tropical rain forest and are watered regularly with other houseplants. Water cacti when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch.

To gift holiday cacti, look for 4, 6, and 8-inch pots at garden centers. Find a decorative container with a hole in the bottom of the same size. Remember these cacti are long-lived and can thrive in this pot for the next 15 years.

When transporting cacti, wrap and bag plants to prevent exposure to cold temperatures as the buds will be severely damaged by time spent outside.

Holiday cacti can bloom profusely for a month or two and may even bloom twice a year. While in bloom, use cacti as decoration, keep them away from heat sources, and water regularly.

As a houseplant, place in front of a window and water regularly. In the summer, these tropical houseplants can go outside in a partially shaded area. Between April and October, fertilize every four weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator

With their bright red blooms, Poinsettia’s are a holiday tradition, but buyers don’t have to limit their selection to one color. This winter, celebrate and decorate with a rainbow of Poinsettias.

University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger says there are plenty of new Poinsettia hues to choose from.

Beyond the traditional natural shades of red there are many other colors that can be sought after when purchasing a Poinsettia. If you are like me, you don’t want to limit your selection to the traditional red.

A number of natural colors are available including pink, white, yellow, and salmon. Any blue and purple Poinsettias are actually cream-colored varieties that have been spray painted. 

Poinsettia’s color come from bracts which are actually modified leaves. These bracts are prompted to change color in response to shorter winter daylight. While bracts of some varieties of Poinsettia are uniformly colored, others offer patterns that add to the uniqueness of these plants.

Some new and unique varieties to look for are ‘Orange Spice,’ ‘Ice Punch,’ ‘Peppermint Twist,' ‘Winter Rose,’ ‘Red Winter Rose,’ and ‘Red Glitter.’

Poinsettias are compact plants that when properly cared for have a long-lasting display of color. Keeping them at the ideal temperature of 65⁰F to 70⁰F during the day will keep the plants healthy and colors more vibrant. Single plants can be used as tabletop floral display. A mass display of Poinsettias for makes a stunning wave of holiday color.

After the holidays are over, Poinsettias can be kept for the next season. To ‘rebloom’ a Poinsettia, bring it inside after summer and provide the proper lighting conditions to trigger the coloring.

Artificially colored Poinsettia will not carry over their dyed color.

When choosing plants, select Poinsettias with cyathia that are green-tipped or red-tipped. Instead of the colorful bracts, The cyathia are the true flowers of these plants. The greenish-yellow flowers are clustered at the center of the bracts. The cyathia can be examined when purchasing a Poinsettia to determine freshness and duration of bloom. Plants with yellow cyathia or pollen indicate that the plant is past its prime.

A healthy plant will need an appropriate location. Provide adequate light but not direct sun. Avoid drafts from windows or heating vents. Make sure that adequate drainage is provided. Foil wrappings often foil the success of keeping Poinsettias for the duration of the holiday season since they keep the container from fully draining.

When decorating your home, a fun crafty project can be to paint Poinsettias. Start with a cream-colored variety and obtain a dye suited used for floral application. Make sure to protect tabletops when applying special floral spray paints.

Explore more about how to care for Poinsettias with a University of Illinois Extension infosheet https://go.illinois.edu/PoinsettiaCare.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Once holidays are over, the Christmas trees tend to come down. Instead of hauling this year’s tree to the dump or having the city pick it up, consider repurposing it in your landscape.

Ken Johnson says one popular use for Christmas trees after the holidays is to use them to block wind that can hinder feeding birds.

Trees can be used as a windbreak by placing them to the northwest of feeders to block where our prevailing winds come from this time of year. Not only will this help protect birds from the wind as they feed, but it can also prevent birdseed from blowing out of feeders.

Additionally, trees can be turned into a large festive bird feeder. Anchor the tree to the ground using a steel fence post. Then decorate it with strings of popcorn and/or cranberries, as well as pinecones smeared with peanut butter and sunflower seeds, suet, or chopped fruit in a mesh bag.

Christmas trees can also be used to create habitat for other wildlife in the form of brush piles. Place brush piles near field borders and in woodland areas along with other brush to provide cover for wildlife. Before building a brush pile, check for local ordinances that may prohibit them. 

Another use for your Christmas tree includes providing a habitat for aquatic wildlife. Trees can be sunk in ponds to provide shelter for fish and other aquatic life. A single tree won’t offer much habitat, so it’s best to group three or four together. Trees should be sunk vertically using rocks or concrete blocks as anchors.

In the garden, evergreen branches and needles can be used as mulches to cover perennial plants during the winter. These mulches are light and won't pack or suffocate the roots of the plants they are protecting. Trees can also be chipped and used as mulch in the garden to help reduce weed problems, moderate soil temperature, and retain moisture.

Your Christmas tree can also be a good source of wood for an outdoor fire. The branches and needles are good for getting fires started, and the trunk can be used as fuel.

Never burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace or woodstove. It may contribute to creosote buildup and could cause a chimney fire.

Finally, trees can be used in a variety of crafty ways. The needles can be used to make potpourri. When dry, the trunk can be cut into wooden discs and used as coasters or trivets, used to edge garden beds, or decorated and turned into ornaments.

Regardless of how a tree is reused after the holidays, make sure to remove all ornaments and tinsel.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator 

Free your houseplants’ roots this winter by creating organic art for your home through kokedama, a form of Japanese bonsai, where plants are grown in a special soil mix and wrapped in moss. Kokedama is a uniquely beautiful way to grow houseplants in a non-traditional way.

Kokedamas can be displayed on decorative trays or dishes, antique bowls or saucers, or attached to a piece of driftwood. They can also be hung with decorative string or wire from a window or ceiling, creating a string garden with more than more kokedama. These beautiful, natural planters make a great gift or can add a little green to your winter space.

Many different kinds of plants can successfully be grown as kokedama. An established houseplant that needs to be repotted, cuttings of houseplants with newly developed roots, or seasonal plants to decorate your space can all be planted in the moss balls.

Ideal plants would be ones that can grow in drier conditions, such as ferns, philodendron, dracaena, spider plants, and even small orchids. Succulents can also be planted in moss balls but will require less water.

Kokedamas can be created with any size plant. The size of the ball will just vary to accommodate the root mass of the plant.

Needed Materials

• Lightweight potting mix or peat moss
• Akadama, a coarse clay-like mineral used as bonsai tree soil.
• Moss, sheet or Spanish
• String
• Scissors
• Water

Directions

1. Start by soaking the moss in a bucket of water for one hour to rehydrate the organic material. Then, squeeze out the excess liquid and set it aside. 
2. Combine the soil mixture of 70% potting mix or peat moss and 30% bonsai soil to create the ball. Slowly add water to the mixture until it can be pressed firmly into a ball without falling apart.
3. Remove the plant from its container and gently break apart the root ball and remove any excess soil, exposing most of the roots.
4. Create a hole in the soil ball large enough to fit the roots of the plant inside. You can also gently break the soil ball into two pieces, lay the roots on one side, and push the soil back together around the roots.
5. Press the moss around the soil ball until it is fully covered. Or, create a thin layer of moss on a flat surface, set the ball in the middle, and wrap the moss around the ball.
6. Use the string to attach the moss to the ball. Secure the string to the ball and wrap it randomly around the ball in every direction to keep the moss in place. Tie it off tightly to create a firm, sturdy ball. 

Proper watering will be key to keeping your kokedama alive. Stick your finger in the top of the ball near the base of the plant to feel if the soil is dry. The weight of the ball will also tell you. Is it light? It is time to water.

To water the kokedama, fill a bucket or sink with lukewarm water. Gently push the moss ball into the water so it starts to absorb the water. Soak the completely submerged ball in the water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the water and squeeze the moss ball to remove excess water, and let it drip dry before returning it to its decorative space. Mist the moss ball between watering to keep it from completely drying out.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

Healthy soil is essential for healthy plants. Using cover crops in the home garden is one way to promote soil health.

Cover crops are non-harvested crops that add organic matter to the soil, transfer nitrogen to plants, and break up heavy clay or compacted soil. They are commonly used in agriculture, but also have a place in the home garden.

Cover crops are planted before a garden is planted or after harvest. Cover crops can also be planted in areas that are unused for the season. Using cover crops in the home garden has many benefits.

Improving soil structure, drawing nutrients up from deep in the soil, and increasing soil fertility are just a few ways cover crops to improve soil health. Suppression of weeds, habitat for beneficial insects, increased biodiversity are other ways cover crops work for the garden's good.

There are two types of cover crops to consider, warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season cover crops are planted in spring or summer before the garden is planted or in a fallow area. Buckwheat, cowpeas, and crimson clover are warm-season are common cover crops used in the home garden.

Cool-season cover crops are planted in late summer or early fall after the vegetables are harvested. Oats, winter wheat, winter rye, and crimson clover can be used as cool-season cover crops.

Keep in mind that these cool-season cover crops need to germinate and grow before winter temperatures.

Crimson clover and cowpeas are legumes that take nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form usable by plants. Notice that crimson clover can be used as either a warm-season or cool-season cover crop.

When planting a cover crop, there is no need to cover the seeds. Allow the plants to grow until the flowering stage. Once flowering begins, either mow or cut down as close to the ground as possible to prevent seed formation. If the crop is cut down too early, it may regrow. If it is cut down too late, it may reseed.

After cutting down the cover crop, leave the cut portion as a mulch on top of the soil or till it into the ground. Both options have their benefits. Leaving the plant material as a mulch can suppress weeds. Tilling can help incorporate the organic matter into the soil, but it also disrupts the delicate soil ecosystem.

Each garden is unique, so you must decide what is suitable for each situation.

Winter hardy cover crops or crops not killed by the mowing could be tilled into the soil. A cover crop that is killed by winter temperatures would not require tilling the debris into the soil.

It is important to follow the “mow, wait, plant” rule when using cover crops. After mowing a cover crop, leave the plant debris to sit for two to four weeks before planting anything else. The residue needs to break down and the flush of microbial activity needs to slow before new plants start growing.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

January begins the annual flight of vegetable, flower, and fruit tree catalogs to your mailbox or inbox. Depending on your level of gardening, the catalogs are starting to arrive frequently and en mass.

It used to be you would get either a vegetable catalog or a fruit catalog or flower catalog. Many catalogs now contain something for everyone, including the garden gadget addicts.

Illinois gardeners should start by looking for plants that thrive in USDA Hardiness Zone 5. Many catalogs offer heirloom vegetables, flowers, and fruit trees. These heirloom varieties can be some of the best tasting and or more unusual looking fruits and vegetables we get to eat.

They are called heirloom since they have had no or very little traditional breeding. This can mean they will have more disease problems though and often less production as well.

With all the plant breeding work going on, vegetables can take on new colors that are a bit outside the lines. Consider a blue potato or perhaps the more acceptable colors of green peppers being yellow, red, purple, orange. These look great in salads and other dishes. It used to be that Swiss chard was green, but it is now also available in shades of pink, orange, yellow, gold, white and purple. Newer varieties have a slenderer stalk and can be used to brighten up salads or cooked as you would use spinach.

Small fruits such as strawberries come in a variety of shades of red now. More small fruits options are also now available. Plant breeders have had success transforming smaller fruiting shrubs such as currants, gooseberries, and Aronia into well performing plants for the home garden. Rhubarb and asparagus are great additions to the garden.

Technology has been transforming gardening. There is a garden gadget for everyone. Gardeners who start their own seeds will find a variety of pots, seed starting soil mixes, markers, and more. You can start your seeds in flats individual cell packs like you see when you buy your annual flowers, or even expanding pellets. 

Planting can be done in pots made of plastic, bio-renewable materials, or an organic fiber. Additional accessories that make seed starting easier include warming mats in sizes from one six pack to a full tray, plant stands with growing lights and self-watering trays, or a variety of temporary outdoor structures to use to grow out and harden vegetable plants before they go into the garden. 

Hand tools are forever evolving each with their own unique characteristics. Choose wisely and choose what feels comfortable for you. Your gardening style changes as you age, so will your tools.

If your mailbox is not quite full enough, go online and sign up for a few more. It is quick and easy

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Throughout the growing season, gardeners and arborists talk about the benefits of pruning woody ornamentals while they are dormant, and that time is almost here.

Pruning can seem like a daunting task, but it is an important cultural practice for the health and vigor of many trees and shrubs. Pruning is done to reduce the size and shape of the plant, increase flower or fruit production, and promote sound structure.

The correct time to prune deciduous shrubs and trees is determined by the plant’s growth habit, bloom time, and health or condition. Timing will depend on the species, but any time is a good time to remove dead, dying, or broken branches. Be sure to sanitize tools between plants with a 10% bleach solution or undiluted 70% isopropyl alcohol. Sanitize between each cut if a disease is suspected.

Spring flowering shrubs, such as lilac or forsythia, will bloom on the growth from the previous last growing season, sometimes called "old wood". The best time to prune a healthy plant is immediately after flowering in spring. Overgrown shrubs may need more extensive pruning through rejuvenation or renewal methods in late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning methods may lead to fewer blooms for a few years, but will improve the overall health of the shrub.

Summer blooming shrubs, or those that bloom after July 1, produce blooms on the current year’s growth. These are best pruned in late winter or early spring.

Do not prune deciduous shrubs in late summer as that will encourage a flush of new growth that will not have the opportunity to harden off before winter, leaving the plant susceptible to frost damage and dieback

Many of the same rules for shrubs also apply to deciduous trees. Most will respond well to late winter pruning, including fruit trees. Performing this task on trees in the dormant season gives the pruner an increased visibility of the tree’s shape without any leaves and enough time for proper wound closure for the plant. When branches are cut correctly at a node or at the branch collar, the plant will seal wounds properly to prevent the spread of decay and entry for potential pests and pathogens.

There are some exceptions to early spring pruning. To reduce the spread of oak wilt disease, oaks should not be pruned from March through October. River birch will respond best to cuts made in late fall or early winter after leaves have fallen and when sap flow is reduced.

Pruning techniques on evergreens will vary  depending on the species and desired effect. Fall pruning is not recommended for evergreens, as any new growth will be susceptible to winter injury. Evergreen shrubs such as juniper and yew can be pruned in March or April before new growth emerges. Evergreen trees such as pine, spruce, and fir generally require very little pruning, and removing lower branches is not advisable as it compromises the structural integrity of the tree.

Spruce and fir trees have lateral buds on the newest growth. These are buds that grow from the sides of the branch, not the ends. To create a more dense form, prune back to these lateral buds in early spring. Pines only grow from terminal buds at the end of the branch. Pines are pruned in spring or early summer at the candle stage by removing two-thirds of the elongated bud. Do not cut branches back to older growth as they will not develop new growth from those areas.

Relieve the winter blues by choosing the next calm, sunny, 40-degree day to put on boots and get some sunshine. The improved health of your trees and shrubs will be worth it.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Fall gardens may need some added pops of color this time of year to maintain beauty and diversity until winter arrives. Asters are a late-blooming, pollinator friendly flower that looks great in the garden and in a fall floral display. 

Think beyond the obvious, fall-blooming favorite mums this year. Select a gorgeous, full-of-color aster instead.

There are 180 species of aster, many of which are native to Illinois. Their dainty, daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, white, pink, and red, all with bright yellow centers. New England aster, Symphyotrichum novaeangliae, and aromatic aster, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, are two easy-to-find favorites. 

Where to Plant Them

Asters grow best in full sun to partial shade areas with well-drained soils. They are typically perennials in Illinois gardens, but need to be in the ground at least six weeks before it freezes to develop a good root system and overwinter successfully.  

Varieties can vary in height from 6 inches to 6 feet. Taller varieties can be pruned back by a third several times throughout the summer, stopping in late July, to create a more compact plant. This will also increase the number of blooms on the plant.  

Asters will begin to bloom when the days get shorter in late summer to early fall. They are short-day plants, like mums, meaning they need long periods of darkness to initiate flower buds.  

Beware, it is normal for the lower leaves to turn brown and dry up when the plant is in full bloom.

Care and Dividing

To prevent asters from self-seeding throughout the garden, cut back the plant to about 2 inches above ground level after the first hard frost has turned the foliage brown. Gardeners can also choose to leave the plant and developing seeds for winter interest and for the birds to enjoy.  

To keep asters tidy and healthy, divide the plants in early spring every two to three years, or when the center dies out. Some varieties are unfortunately prone to powdery mildew, which can be reduced with good air circulation and watering in the morning at the base of the plant. 

A bee and butterfly favorite, asters are a great source of fall nectar for pollinators traveling on their fall migration. While most flowers have already finished blooming, asters are just starting their show in the garden.

They serve as the larval host plant for several butterflies and moths, including painted lady butterflies.   

Asters also make great cut flowers for mixed fall arrangements. Arrange them with bright yellow goldenrod and ornamental grasses for a stunning autumnal décor display.  

For more information on garden care, find a local Extension expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator 

While the bumblebee is likely the most well-known pollinator, pollinators come in a variety of shapes, species, and sizes.

Many entomologists believe the tiny sweat bee nectaring on your flowering weed is just as important to a healthy ecosystem as the more well-known bumble bee and honey bee.

Gardeners and homeowners can make a space more attractive to the small pollinators of Illinois by planting miniature flowers. These little bees, about the size of an ant, love pollinating miniature flowers in an urban environment where there is usually more floral diversity than in rural areas.  

When spring comes, instead of cutting your garden back to the ground, consider removing only the top of the stems to encourage opportunistic bees like small carpenter bees to make nesting cells to overwinter in.

Small Bees to Look For

Small sweat bees, Lasioglossum, are dark brown, gray, black, or metallic with hairs on their legs and abdomen giving them a fuzzy appearance. These pollinating bees nest in bare ground that has loose soil. They nest individually, but there may be multiple nests in one area.

Small sweat bees are especially attracted to a much-beloved Illinois native shrub, button bush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Button bush boasts minuscule tube-shaped florets on a globular white seed head in the middle of summer, followed by an ornamental red seed head. This large shrub grows to about 6 to 8 feet and can form thickets in wet environments. 

Yellow-faced or masked bees, Hylaeus, are dark bees that look like wasps with their yellow or white face markings. Lacking the hair of typical pollinating bees, these tiny bees ingest pollen and nectar, then regurgitate the mixture in nesting cells to feed larvae when they hatch.

This pollinator emerges in the late spring when the bold flowers of golden alexanders, Zizia aurea, begin to bloom and remains active until the compound flowers of goldenrod, Solidago spp, start to fade. Yellow-faced bees can be seen pollinating the miniature white and purple flowers of common mountain mint, Pycnanthemum virginianum. These small flowers are arranged in clusters that bloom in late summer.

Small carpenter bees, Ceratina, which are black and metallic blue, excavate the center of small stems in the garden. They have fine pollen-collecting hairs on their legs and carry pollen and nectar back to the nest within the stem.

Small carpenter bees are attracted to small flowers of spring-blooming pussy willow, Salix spp, and summer-blooming yarrow, Achillea millefolium. Yarrow flowers cannot pollinate themselves and rely on the service of small bees.

For more information on how to support pollinators, contact a local Extension horticulture expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Christopher Enroth, horticulture educator 

Fall is a great time to plant trees, many of which are originally grown at a nursery either in a plastic container or in the ground before they are balled and burlapped. How the tree is grown in its first years and then planted affects the long-term health of the tree.

Balled-and-burlapped trees are still widely used especially for planting larger nursery stock.  

What are Balled-and-Burlapped Trees?

Balled-and-burlapped trees are grown in ground at the nursery. When it is time to sell the tree, a large machine called a tree spade digs up an intact root ball. However, many of the smaller roots are lost when the tree spade pulls up the root ball. Up to 90% of the entire root system may be lost as the tree is removed from the ground.

The root ball is then wrapped in burlap and set in a wire cage that is tied tightly to keep the root ball intact while it is moved to the planting site.

Once at the planting site, the debate about the next steps begins. Either the tree can be planted with the wire cage and burlap still in place, or the wire cage can be removed and the burlap cut or rolled down, exposing at least the top third of the root ball.

Does Burlap and Wire Help or Hinder Trees?

Those arguing for leaving on the burlap and wire cage say it helps with establishment by guaranteeing the root ball is not disturbed and protecting any remaining roots. It also maintains the soil structure around the root system. If the burlap used is natural, the fibers will decompose and the tree will grow around the wire cage. Removing the materials takes installation crews longer, which leads to greater expense.

On the flip side, some contend that leaving the burlap and wire cage on negatively affects the long-term health of the tree. Leaving the burlap on hinders root development into the native soil. Burying the burlap slows its decomposition making it a barrier for much longer than expected.

If the tree is an unstoppable force, then the wire cage is like an immovable object the tree cannot grow around. Eventually, the tree will conflict with the cage and may grow around it, but could possibly become girdled.

In the scientific studies comparing the two methods for planting balled and burlapped trees, researchers found little difference in the overall growth and health of the trees in both situations. However, time is a major factor

If all goes as planned, a newly planted tree is expected to out-live the gardener. But scientists need to publish their data while still alive so very few long-term studies exist.

Examining the arguments for and against removing the material from a balled-and-burlapped tree, it seems to be a trade-off between successful establishment and long-term health.

Post-Planting Tree Care

This entire debate is secondary to other tree planting and care items, such as watering and pruning for future tree structure. Without basic tree care, it won’t matter whether the burlap was left on or not.

The following steps are great recommendations to follow when planting new balled-and-burlapped trees.

• Remove and discard any twine on the base of the tree and the basket.
• Pull back burlap from the top of the root ball.
• Remove soil from the top of the root ball to find where the trunk starts to flare outward. If no flare is found, which is common on conifers, remove the soil to the topmost root.
• Remove the top one-third of the wire basket.
• Pull back or remove burlap in the top one-third of the basket.
• Backfill soil, filling in all air pockets.
• Stake the tree if necessary

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator 

The splendor of trees and shrubs comes from what is above ground, but don’t forget about what lies beneath. Poorly drained areas, easily identified after a downpour of rain, are not suitable for some trees or shrubs.

Soil plays a vital role in the survival of trees and shrubs in the landscape. 

Planting the right trees and shrubs in poorly drained sites has many benefits. Roots take up excess water and promote improved soil filtration. Reducing standing water can help decrease mosquito populations and create a more pleasurable environment. Surface drainage may be preferred over sub-soil drainage, which is limited or slow. Moving the water away is a great start.

Tree placement and Care

When deciding on a new tree for a wet area, think up and down, imagining both the mature canopy and the expansion of the root system.

Trees that do well in wetter soils often have a shallower root system, so be prepared to find those roots at or near the surface as the tree matures.

Placement will be pivotal for tree success, especially when planting in wet soils. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in the soil, influences soil moisture retention. Soil texture also influences aeration, how air moves through the soil. Avoid heavy clay soils, which have poor aeration and drainage, and hardpan soil, which is underlaid with rocky material that can interfere with root development.

Do not plant trees in wet areas in the fall. One threat to planting in wet soils is frost heaving, an upward swelling of the soil during freezing conditions caused by ice formation in the pore spaces of soils.

Plant trees and shrubs on wet sites during the early spring to ensure a full season of growth and reduce the likelihood of frost heaving that happens with a fall planting. 

Other placement considerations include precipitation patterns and poorly-timed or located irrigation systems. Downspout rain discharge may also influence the suitability of a planting site.

Looking at the distribution of trees in the wild can also help guide plant selection. However, some species such as bald cypress or black gum can adapt to heavy moisture and other growing conditions that may not occur where they are naturally found.

Research to find out what the requirements for moisture are when selecting trees and shrubs. Prior performance will also indicate what trees or shrubs may be successful in your landscape.

Know Before You Grow

It is much more cost-effective to plant the right species for the location than to try to adjust the site conditions. 

Trees and shrubs that thrive in wet sites include:

• Downy serviceberry, Amelanchier arborea
• River birch, Betula nigra
• American hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana
• Common hackberry, Celtis occidentalis
• Dawn redwood, Metasequoia glyptostroboides
• Black gum, Nyssa sylvatica
• Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum
• Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis
• Gray dogwood, Cornus racemose
• Redosier dogwood, Cornus sericea
• Spice bush, Lindera benzoin

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator 

Birdseed and firewood are two common topics that show up every fall. Both take some planning to be successful. 

Feeding Birds in the Winter

Feeding the birds means starting earlier than later. Birds need to know early on that there will be something to eat on a regular basis if you want them to hang around in your yard. 

With the recent outbreak of songbird deaths, Illinois officials are not currently recommending removing feeders, but stress cleaning and sanitizing feeders every two weeks and hummingbird feeders weekly.

Choose the Right Birdseed

Buying birdseed that has a little bit of everything for every bird can add up to a lot of wasted seed on the ground. Consider putting out seed that will attract only your favorite birds. This can be more cost-effective as the unwanted seed will feed four-legged critters, not to mention make a mess on the patio or in the lawn.

The type of birdseed chosen will also help determine the kind of feeder needed. Typically, feeders are designed for the size of seed being distributed — thistle versus sunflower, for example.

You may end up with several feeders catering to a variety of your favorite birds.

Birdseed can be a feeding source for pantry pests such as the Indian Meal Moth, so keep seed securely covered and consider storage in a cool garage.

Most think of feeding birds, fewer think about supplying water, too. Consider birdbaths that have a heating element to keep them from icing over in the winter.

Seasoning and Storing Winter Firewood

Now on to firewood. It is never a good idea to burn “green” firewood in the home fireplace as it will take heat away from the room and can add substantially to the creosote buildup in the chimney. Outdoors it can make for so much smoke it is impossible to sit close enough to enjoy the fire.

It may not be critical to have the best firewood to burn in an outdoor fire pit, but it is an entirely different story for the indoor fireplace.

Seasoned firewood means the wood, for logs more than 6 inches, has been cut, split, and dried for a long time. Clues that the wood is seasoned are a gray color on the ends of a log and checkmarks showing moisture loss.

Firewood should be around 20% to 25% moisture to burn well and limit smoke. Those who purchase well-seasoned wood need to keep it dry before burning it.

Make the woodpile easy to uncover and recover, or you will find yourself leaving the cover off and allowing the firewood to reabsorb the water you paid to remove.

As a rule, the heavier the firewood, given the same moisture content, the more heat it will give off. This is something to consider if there are different tree species available to purchase.

Once the home fireplace is being regularly used, only bring in the amount of firewood expected to be used in a week. It takes more than a week to “thaw out” any outdoor insects that have hidden in cracks and crevices on the bark.

This practice will keep the insects from wandering around your home and, while not likely to do any damage indoors, will keep family peace.

As an additional precaution, when stacking firewood next to the outside wall of a home, leave a few inches between for good air movement and an extra barrier for insects.

More information about cutting, purchasing, and burning firewood is available at go.illinois.edu/Firewood.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator 

As the growing season wraps up and gardeners put vegetable beds to rest and clean and store tools for the winter, there is one task they may be forgetting. Testing the soil’s nutrients can provide a better understanding of a garden’s health and save money in the long run.

Over time, soil fertility, pH, and even soil structure can change as nutrients are depleted. Testing soils will identify missing nutrients that can then be addressed as needed. Unless there is a specific issue being remedied, soil should be tested every three to five years.

Fall is a great time for gardeners to test since soil temperatures are still above 50°F and the growing season is slowing down. Any added organic matter will then decompose, and nutrients will filter into the soil over winter well before planting season.

Depending on the soil’s natural fertility and what is being grown in it, plants can perform well for years without needing fertilizer. While fertilization can help with plant vigor and vitality, experts recommend first establishing a need and purpose for fertilizer. Understanding soil nutrient concentrations before applying fertilizer is important in a sustainable landscape.

If fertilizer is not necessary, why waste product and time applying it? Overfertilization can harm trees, shrubs, and even turfgrass, especially during drought conditions.

Excess fertilizer can also end up in waterways and lead to aquatic life and water quality issues.

What do Soil Tests Tell Gardeners? 

A basic soil test will measure soil pH and organic matter as well as macronutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7 and most horticultural crops do well in the range of 6 to 6.8. Many soil testing labs will also measure amounts of micronutrients such as boron, copper, iron, or manganese.

If you are concerned about soil contaminants, such as lead in an urban site, contact the soil lab about specific instructions and additional costs.

Since soil samples must represent an entire yard or garden, take several core samples from evenly distributed spots and then mix them together. Remove any roots, rocks, or twigs. Gardeners can use a soil probe, sharp spade, or trowel to gather soil, taking care to remove the same amount for each sample. If comparing soils, such as a seemingly fertile soil and one that does not produce well, take and test two separate samples.

Home soil test kits are widely variable and not recommended. There are several soil testing labs in Illinois. Labs vary in pricing and services, so call before mailing soil samples.

Many labs will provide interpretation of the soil test results upon request and Illinois Extension horticulture staff can provide further guidance. Locate a local county Extension office go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Along with soil testing, preventative plant care can reduce the need for not only fertilizers, but herbicides and pesticides as well. Most healthy trees and shrubs do not need fertilizers once they are mature and native annuals and perennials are more suited to local soils than non-native species reducing the need for fertilizer. Established lawns benefit from cultural practices such as using disease-resistant varieties, soil aeration, over-seeding, and mowing at the correct height with sharp mower blades.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Mary Fischer, horticulture educator 

One of the pricier expenditures for home gardeners is quality hand tools. High-quality tools will last longer, but this does mean the tools — whether shovels, rakes, pruners, or hand trowels — cost more.

Buy the best you can afford. Take care of your tools, and they will take care of you. This takes time and effort, but can extend the life of your investment.

With winter coming up, make sure to clean, oil, and sharpen tools before storing them for the season.

Store Garden Tools Properly

The first step to tool maintenance is proper storage. Do not leave tools outside where they can absorb moisture from wet grass and dew. Instead, store tools off the ground and away from potential moisture, such as in a shed, barn, or garage.

• Long-handled tools can be stored conveniently on hanging racks or tool holders, which helps prevent damage to sharpened edges and keeps the tools organized. Often more than one tool can be hung in a small area.
• Short-handled or hand tools can be stored using a pegboard system.
• An outline of the tool drawn on the pegboard can help identify a missing tool. If a tool is missing, check outside. Attach bright marking tape to the handle of tools to spot them more easily outdoors.

Maintenance and Care

Garden tools are typically exposed to soil and moisture. To preserve tools and keep them in proper working order, it is extremely important for tools to be clean and dry before storing.

Use a wire brush, paint scraper, or a strong blast from a hose to remove caked-on soil from shovels and hand trowels. Wipe small hand tools, such as pruners or shears, to remove any sap or moisture from the blades. Turpentine, alcohol, or mineral spirits can remove stubborn sap. Fine steel may be used, if needed.

Once clean and dry, apply an oil-based protective coating to any metal surfaces to prevent rust. If desired, use a good quality spray paint to protect metal surfaces. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment to protect eyes and hands while doing this.

Wooden handles should be free of rough areas. Sanding will help smooth out these spots. To maintain the life of the wooden handles, apply a protective coating using boiled linseed oil, oil from dried flax seeds. Polish smooth with a dry soft cloth.

Good quality hand pruners can be disassembled for cleaning and sharpening. Many pruner manufacturers have replaceable blades. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool and a good deal of effort to remove dirt, rust, and sap from pruner blades.

It’s very important to examine the blades for any damage due to cracks, nicks, or burrs. The beveled edge of the blade should be sharpened at the same angle as the bevel.

Before storing tools away for the winter, sharpen any dull tools used for digging or pruning and file down any nicks. When it comes to sharpening, tools such as whetstones or files, are a matter of personal preference and ability.

Whetstones come in different gradations and sizes. A longer stone may be easier to use for garden tools. Whetstones require a lubricant such as 3-in-1 oil.

Diamond-coated flat files can last a lifetime and only require water for lubrication. For a quick sharpening job during the season, try a ceramic sharpener. Another quick fix is a bastard file.

It is not advisable to use power grinding stones. Heat generated through friction can make the metal brittle.

Once tools are sharp, coat the blade or metal surface lightly with an oil lubricant such as WD-40.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Every fall, an onslaught of leaves drop relentlessly into yards leaving homeowners to rake, bag, and haul them out on the curb. But what many don’t know is that those golden-hued leaves are gold in the garden.

After raking leaves this fall, think about recycling them on your property rather than bagging them for curbside pick-up.

Fallen leaves are one of the most readily available forms of organic matter for home gardeners. Decomposing leaves increase organic matter in the soil, can be used as mulch for garden beds and lawns, and are a valuable addition to compost piles.

Ways to Recycle Leaves

Break down leaves with a leaf shredder or mulcher. Or, run over raked leaves with a lawnmower to cut them into smaller pieces. This initial breakdown allows for improved air circulation and more surface area leading to quicker decomposition.

Be sure to separate diseased leaves from the leaves you plan to recycle or compost.

The rate of decomposition for leaves will depend on the leaf size, tree species, and moisture level. Brown leaves break down faster if they are shredded and moistened. If un-shredded leaves are applied as mulch, they tend to mat together and suffocate the soil or vegetation.

However, having matted leaves in a vegetable or annual garden bed in the fall will help smother winter annual weeds. In the spring, the leaves can be incorporated or tilled into the soil.

Another easy way to recycle leaves is by storing them in garbage bags with small holes that allows leaves to break down naturally. Wetting the leaves and having holes in direct contact with the earth, where more microbes are present, will speed up the decomposition process. The end result is referred to as leaf mold or partially decomposed leaves.

Leaf mold can then be used as mulch or saved as a carbon source for adding to your compost pile in the summer when there is less readily available "brown" materials.

Brown or dry materials are typically high in carbon and will help to balance the “green” or wet nitrogen-rich materials in a compost pile.

Why Not Leave the Leaves?

Leaves serve as a wonderful soil conditioner and increase organic matter in the soil, which has a variety of benefits. More organic material will increase the amount of microbial activity which includes beneficial bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms that aid in plant growth. Organic matter also coats finer clay particles in the soil providing more air space and binds sandy soils allowing for better water retention.

Ideal garden soils should test at 5% organic matter. A standard soil test will provide the percentage of organic matter in soil. For information on soil testing kits and labs, contact a University of Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

By recycling leaves on your property, not only will you be improving your garden soil, you will also be making an environmentally conscious choice to keep your yard waste on-site rather than having it hauled off as waste.

To learn more about the basics of composting, visit extension.illinois.edu/global/composting-resources.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!