By Horticulture Educator Bruce Black

Another Illinois winter has gone with the promise of spring to soon arrive. Garden catalogs have been arriving for months allowing gardeners to look forward to spring 2022 - the fresh air, energic wildlife, and the gardening. While many have already bought seeds and started to sow them, what if you’re just now thumbing through seed and plant catalogs looking for inspiration, warmth, and a new challenge?

Start by keeping good garden records from previous years to aid in the planning for the new spring. I always like to test a new plant or six, that is suited for USDA hardiness zone 5, which can sometimes be a challenge without a plan or a map.

After mapping out your existing perennials, think about what new plants could be added to your landscape and their space requirements. After covering this topic now for seven years, my starting place is the All-America Selections.

All-America Selections, AAS, is a non-profit organization that releases several trialed plants each year as AAS Winners. AAS tests new varieties every year at their private and public trial sites located around the United States and Canada. Currently, there are four trial locations in Illinois – three northern, and one central.

Independent judges, who are professional horticulturists in geographically diverse areas, evaluate trial entries against comparison plants. The results and observations are compiled, and winners are chosen. For the best plants suited to Illinois, look for Great Lakes winners or National winners on the AAS winners lists.

This year, there are 12 AAS Winners, 10 of which are suited for Illinois – six vegetables, one fruit, and three flowers.

National Vegetable Winners

• Eggplant Icicle F1, Solanum melongena var. Icicle F1: This is a white eggplant with fewer spines than other eggplants. The larger cylindrical fruits have fewer seeds. At 48 inches tall, it requires staking. It has 55 days to harvest from transplant. The plant spreads 28 inches.
• Lettuce Bauer, Lactuca sativa variety Bauer: Ideal for in-ground, containers, or raised beds. Uniform, compact, dense heads of dark green leaves. 58 days to harvest from seed and 34 days from transplant. Harvest at baby or full-sized leaves for enjoyment. An excellent candidate for controlled environments.
• Pepper Buffy F1, Capsicum frutescens variety Buffy F1: Good yielding, faster maturing, hot pepper with thick walls and 500,000 Scoville units. Upright, 28-inch plants with heat tolerance and ornamental value. It has 70 days to harvest from transplant.
• Pepper Dragonfly F1, Capsicum annuum variety Dragonfly F1: Purple, four-lobed, sweet bell peppers with thick walls. The purple color changes to red if it is left on the vine too long. Plant height is 24 inches to 36 inches. Each plant produces 40 peppers. It has 75 days to harvest from transplant.
• Tomato Purple Zebra F1, Solanum lycopersicum var. Purple Zebra F1: A sweet-leaning acidic tomato with disease resistance. It has green stripes on dark red thinner-skinned fruits. It has 80 to 85 days to harvest from transplant. Its upright growth habit requires staking. Each plant produces 150 to 200 tomatoes.

Regional (Heartland) Vegetable Winner

• Tomato Pink Delicious, Solanum lycopersicum variety Pink Delicious: A pink, early maturing, higher yielding, and beefsteak uniform tomato. Good disease resistance. Higher Brix (sugar) for a pink tomato. A 6-foot-tall upright climber with a 3-foot spread. It has 84 days to harvest from transplant.

Regional (Great Lakes) Vegetable Winner

• Watermelon Century Star F1, Citrullus lanatus variety Century Star F1: A 10-pound, round, seedless, spotted variety. Crisp melon with sweet flesh. Vines spread 9 feet to 11 feet. Bears two to three fruits per plant. It has 65 days to harvest from transplant and 75 days from seed.

Gold Medal Winners

• Begonia Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1, Begonia x hybrid variety Viking™ Explorer Rose on Green F1:  An annual, trailing begonia with rose-colored flowers that is excellent for hanging baskets and containers. Heat, weather, and disease tolerant. Pollinator friendly and 50 days to flower from transplant.
• Petunia Bee’s Knees, Petunia x hybrid variety Bee’s Knees: This is the first petunia Gold Medal winner in 72 years. It has lush yellow, non-fading flowers on green leaves and needs little maintenance with a mounding and trailing habit. It is an annual flower that is heat and rain tolerant and pollinator friendly.

National Flower Winner

• Sunflower Concert Bell F1, Helianthus annuus L variety Concert Bell F1: Sturdy and durable, Concert Bell F1 has multiple clusters of 10 to 12 annual flowers. It is a uniform height at 5 feet to 6 feet. It is earlier to flower than other sunflowers. Direct seed for a great landscape attraction or for cut flowers.

Looking for something else to fill in your landscape and gardens? The All-America Selections website, all-americaselections.org, contains a list of all past vegetables and flowers winners since its founding in 1933.

For more information about gardening, check out the Illinois Extension Horticulture website at extension.illinois.edu/global/horticulture or their YouTube channel at go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Mary Fischer

Have you noticed the windowed packets of seeds at garden centers with brightly colored “seeds”? These pelleted seeds are small or irregular seed that have a specialized inert coating applied to improve planting, spacing, and germination. Often the coating, which increases the weight and size of the seed, is colored which aids in planting several varieties of seed in one tray, a row in a garden, or a field. 

While pelleted seed was originally developed for commercial production with a mechanical seeder. Then, seed companies began producing pelleted seed for vegetables and flowers and seeds are now available at local garden centers and big-box stores.

History

Pelleted seed has been used intermittently since WWI. The improved pelleted seed was introduced for cereal seeds in the 1930s by a British seed company, Germains. In the 1940s, the U.S. used several types of pelleted seed in reforestation studies. The 1960s saw large-scale use of pelletized seed by commercial growers primarily for its ease of use with mechanical planters and new seed coating technologies. In the 1970s, California banned the use of short-handled hoes, increasing the use of pelleted or coated seeds.

Benefits of Pelleted Seed

Today, pelleted seed has many positive benefits for commercial productions and home gardeners. The coating protects seed from birds, rodents, and a wide range of environmental conditions that often lead to replanting. It reduces loss from needing to thin plants.

Precise spacing requires less seed, and since the seed is coated and visible, less seed will be used saving gardeners money. 

For large-scale producers, it is easier for specific applications like aerial dropping or mechanical seeders. There are nutrient benefits with increased oxygen availability. The coating allows for pre-inoculation of legume seeds. Since chemicals are applied to the seed and not the whole field, application is safer and there is a lower cost of agricultural chemicals.

One obstacle to widespread adoption of pelleted seed has been the ability of the coating to split open once it is hydrated allowing oxygenated moisture to reach the seed. New levels of coating densities for commercial growers has overcome that issue.

Meghan Shinn has two precautions when using pelleted seed in a March 1, 2020 article from Horticulture Magazine. First, the growing medium needs to remain consistently moist, but not soggy, after the seed is sown. Secondly, all the pelleted seed must be used in the season it is purchased. This should not be a problem with most home gardeners as seed packets contain smaller amounts of seed.

How to Use Pelleted Seed

Pelleted seed is very easy to use. The colored coating allows a home gardener to see the seed as it is planted, the seed spacing, and where it is planted before covering with soil. If a home gardener is starting seed in a tray for transplant later, pelleted seed makes it easier to identify the different types of seed as it is planted.

How to Make Seed Tape

Another method of planting pelleted seed is to make your own seed tape. This is quite easy to do using single-ply toilet paper and glue.

1. Simply tear off a length of toilet paper to fit the garden plot. Fold it in half lengthwise and cut into two pieces. Fold each length in half longways and open.
2. Following the recommended spacing on the seed packet, place small dots of glue at the appropriate distance to one side of the fold, then add a seed.
3. Once the entire length has been planted, fold the other side over the seed side.
4. This tape can be wrapped around an empty paper towel roll and labeled for later use.
5. When ready to plant, prepare the garden bed, lay the tape on the bed, and cover it to the proper depth as directed on the seed packet.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle

Growing food is not limited to outdoors in the summer. With some planning, you can grow food indoors throughout the year.

Before starting an indoor kitchen garden, it is essential to think about what you want to gain by growing food indoors. You might wish to have herbs to give recipes a special touch or boost nutrition for added health benefits.

Keep in mind the amount of work you want to put into your indoor garden, schedules including your daily routine and time away, and whether your plants will be only indoors or transferred to outside during nice weather. 

Light Needs

The limiting factor for growing plants indoors is light. Three aspects of light must be considered when planning to grow an indoor garden – light intensity, duration, and quality.

Most plants grown for food need intense, bright light. A south-facing window is a good location for natural light exposure for plants.

Many plants are sensitive to changes in the time they are exposed to light. Light duration affects their growth, flowering, and setting fruit. Supplemental light during the short days of winter will ensure the plants get light for the required time. Plants also need times of darkness. A timer is a helpful tool to help you deliver the proper duration of light to your plants.

Light quality refers to the color of the light. In general, blue-green light is required for plants to have healthy growth. Red-orange light is necessary for flowering and fruit. Sunlight has all the colors of light. 

Supplemental light varies depending on the source. Fluorescent lights give off light in the blue spectrum. Incandescent light is in the red/orange spectrum and gives off heat. It is not essential to buy expensive lights for an indoor garden but to understand how to use light resources effectively.

Water, Air, Soil and Pollination

Providing the proper amount of water is critical for an indoor garden. Check the soil for moisture to determine when to water. It is best to keep the soil profile consistently moist. Too wet or too dry can cause stress to the plant.

Good air circulation around plants helps to prevent fungus and disease problems.

Sterile potting media is a good choice for an indoor kitchen garden. Start your garden without worrying about disease or insect pests. Choose media that drains well to help plants thrive.

Wind and insects pollinate food plants outdoors but are lacking in indoor spaces. Some plants such as tomatoes can be pollinated by shaking them to mimic the wind, while others such as strawberries need to have the pollen transferred by hand to mimic insects. 

Indoor herb options:

• oregano
• Thyme
• Lemongrass
• Chives
• Mint

The first four thrive in bright light, but do not tolerate overwatering. Only water when the top of the soil is dry. Growth can be slow during the winter, so harvest leaves sparingly until new leaves form. Mint can tolerate less light and more water. Keep some on hand to add to teas or desserts.

Indoor fruit and vegetable options:

• Lettuce
• Microgreens
• Tomatoes
• Citrus trees
• Alpine strawberries

A variety of lettuce can be successfully grown indoors. Scatter seeds evenly across moist soil media and lightly cover. Lettuces thrive in cooler temperatures and need less light than other edible plants. Microgreens are packed with nutrition. These delicate plants are best grown indoors where environmental conditions can be controlled.

Patio varieties of tomatoes and citrus trees can be grown in pots with bright light and moist soil. Keep in mind that these plants will need some help with pollination for fruit to form. 

Alpine strawberries can grow well in a bright, cool space out of direct light. For fruit, hand pollination is necessary. 

There are so many options for growing an indoor kitchen garden. Try one or more to have fresh, nutrient-filled food all year long. 

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn

Culinary herbs are a favorite of many gardeners. They are easy to grow as they require little care, have few insect and disease problems, and generally prefer moderate fertility levels. In addition, they add fragrance and beauty to the garden. Many herbs such as lavender, sage, and purple basil, are very ornamental and combine nicely in flower or vegetable gardens. 

Now is the time to plan what herbs you will plant this spring. First consider what herbs you use in food dishes, then consider which herb plants will add texture, color, and fragrance to your garden.

Seeds and plants can be mail ordered and most can be purchased locally. Herbs such as dill, cilantro, and basil are easy to grow from seed. Lavender, rosemary, sage, and thyme are easily grown from purchased plants.

Mint and oregano are easy to divide, so ask a fellow gardener for a start of their plant.

Herb care

Throughout the growing season, herbs do need some attention including weeding, watering, and harvesting. Weeding takes persistence. If planted in a garden, most established herb plants don’t need additional watering. However, when rainfall is less than 1 inch per week, additional moisture may be needed. The key is to avoid overwatering as herb plants do not like wet feet.

Harvesting Herbs

Harvesting of herbs can be done throughout the growing season. Throughout the summer, annual herbs grown for their leaves such as basil, summer savory, and sweet marjoram, should be cut back leaving approximately 6 inches of stem and leaves. Cut back the stem to just above a leaf or pair of leaves. Most annual leafy herbs don’t survive frost or freezing. So, if frost is predicted, remove as much of the plant as you desire for preserving. 

Dill and cilantro are annual herbs grown for both leaves and seeds. For a continual supply of fresh leaves, reseed every two weeks. If growing for seeds allow the plant to mature before harvesting. Collect seed heads as they turn a light brown. Place seed heads upside down in a paper bag. Allow to dry for about two weeks and shake seeds off stems before removing stems from the bag.

Prune leafy perennial herbs such as sage, rosemary, thyme, and oregano by removing one-third of the top growth at a time. Avoid heavy prunings of perennial herbs after the beginning of September. In the fall, plants that will overwinter, need to start shutting down. Heavy pruning will promote new growth which keeps a plant actively growing. 

Herbs are best used fresh, however, most can be dried or frozen for later use. Before preserving herbs, wash them to remove dirt and other particles.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Christopher Enroth

Over the years, there has been a growing demand for organic-based fertilizers to use in the garden and landscaping. There are of course ways to manufacture these organic fertilizers, but what if we could use a byproduct of the manufacture of a different product? It is an efficient use of our natural resources and perhaps even creates a sustainable source.

Byproduct fertlizer

This has given rise to many different types of organic fertilizers appearing on the market that are the “leftovers” of some other type of industry.

For instance, corn gluten meal is an organic fertilizer that is a byproduct of the corn milling industry. Milorganite is a hybridized trade name of an organic fertilizer. “Mil” means Milwaukee, “orga” shortened from organic, and “nite” for nitrogen. Though I was originally taught “nite” came from the term “night soil” which is human waste. Milorganite fertilizer is made of biosolids from treated sewer sludge from the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District.

What is Fish Emulsion Fertlizer?

And then there is fish emulsion. Fish emulsion is the leftover liquid from the fish meal and fish oil industry.

To get a picture of fish emulsion think back to or look up the Saturday Night Live video of Dan Aykroyd hawking his Super Bass-o-Matic ‘76. With the help of a blender, some water, and a dead fish, Aykroyd made a fish emulsion.

Of course, some other items go into processing fish emulsion, like straining out solid pieces and adjusting the pH so the product doesn’t spoil in the container, but it is for the most part liquified fish. 

What the Research Says

There are many unverified claims on the magic of fish emulsion. Some will say to soak seeds in this product for better germination rates. Initial studies show this not to be true. Others note to use this as a foliar spray for plants to absorb nutrients directly into their leaf tissue for big yields. Again, studies of sweet peppers show no difference in yield when using fish emulsion foliar sprays.

Fish Emulsion is an Effective Fertlizer

Fish emulsion has been shown to be effective as a fertilizer. While nutrient ratios may vary, a typical fish emulsion may have nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) rates of 2-4-1 and the micronutrients calcium, magnesium, sulfur, chlorine, and sodium.

A possible benefit of fish emulsion, and many of the organic-based fertilizers, is that they offer protein to feed our soil microorganisms, which may help to build a more robust soil food web resulting in improved plant health for the long term.

Then, there is the issue of the odor.

A liquid fish emulsion smells, well like blended up fish. I now avoid using it on houseplants, after applying it once and booting the plants outside after a day of playing the game ‘Find the Smell!’ 

Outdoors the odor is of little consequence. However, the raccoons took a very keen interest in why I was hiding dead fish in my outside containers and proceeded to dig in each pot on my patio. While this is not established research, over time several people have called the Illinois Extension office about raccoons digging in pots. After investigation, there does seem to be a trend of fish emulsion fertilizer use and mischievous raccoons.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Gemini Bhalsod

Spring ephemeral flowers are nature’s gems after winter. These short-lived beauties are wildflowers that grow in woodlands in the early spring before the leaves on deciduous trees are open. They are called spring ephemerals because they have a relatively short blooming time.

These seasonal plants grow, flower, and set seed relatively quickly. They are usually dormant by mid-summer when the leaves die back again. In your garden one moment and gone another.

Spring ephemerals complete most of their life cycle in the early spring before the trees and understory shrubs leaf out and take over most of the available light. These plants start growing roots in the fall and winter, to fully emerge above ground in the spring. This time of year is a tough time to be a growing plant – soil temperatures are low, the weather is unpredictable, and there are just a few pollinators foraging.

As temperatures increase and sunlight becomes less available in the late spring and summer, growth slows down, nutrients are stored underground, and the plants begin to die back.

There is some conflicting information and opinions out there as to whether spring ephemerals are just a special type of spring flower or if they are a spring bulb. One major difference, with a few exceptions, is that ephemeral foliage dies back in the early summer while the foliage of spring bulbs lasts longer.

How to Grow Spring Ephemerals

With the right location, gardeners can grow spring ephemerals in their yards. Since a lot of spring ephemerals can be slow to grow and spread, plant them in groups to have a sense of fullness.

Plant in high organic matter areas that mimic a woodland; no fertilizer is needed. Water only during establishment or in times of drought. Leaf die back is normal.

Many nurseries sell spring ephemerals these days due to their increased popularity. Planting seeds can be a less expensive, but slower approach and you’ll have to break the dormancy of the seed before it grows. Nurseries sell potted plants in the spring and fall. If it’s a little later in the spring, the above ground portion of the plant might look yellow, but the root mass is still alive.

Never collect plants in the wild as it is illegal, and can really disrupt natural habitat. 

Plants bought online that are mailed, they will likely be dormant with bare roots. There will be no top growth and they are usually packed in moist packing material. Plant them right away.

• Skunk Cabbage, Symplocarpus foetidus, is one of the earliest spring ephemerals that emerges in February. There are tiny yellow flowers held on a spadix inside of a purple flower. The plant attracts carrion flies as pollinators. After it flowers, large smooth cabbage-like leaves develop.
• Dutchman’s Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria, is a distinct plant that flowers in April. It gets its common name because the individual blossoms resemble pants, or ‘breeches.’ Leaflets are feathery and fern-like and it is pollinated by bees.
• Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum, has very distinctive flower and seeds. The outside of the flower could be green, or purple striped. After flowering in June, the flower turns into a cluster of green berries which are persistent until they ripen into a bright red in early fall for birds to eat.
• Virginia Bluebells, Mertensia virginica, appear in March. These plants are known for spreading into masses of flowers. Clusters of bell-shaped purplish flowers stand over the foliage and the plant quickly dies back after blooming.
• Mayapples, Podophyllum peltatum, grow in large dense colonies that spread through rhizomes. The large bowl-shaped white flower grows under the umbrella shaped, glossy leaves. It grows in part-to-full shade and blooms from April to May. They tolerate drier soil conditions and short periods of drought, especially when flowering is complete.
• Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis, blooms are very fleeting, sometimes lasting only a few days. It has a vibrant white flower with green-lobed leaf at the base. The rhizomes have an orange-red color when cut. Leaves can stick around throughout the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Kelly Allsup

Trees are natural caretakers – their limbs provide shade and shelter, their seeds and leaves provide food, their roots filter water. Insect scientists have another skill to add to the list – a haven for caterpillars. Entomologists are asking gardeners, homeowners, and landscapers to stop mowing and instead add permanent plantings under tree canopies to help moths and butterfly caterpillars survive.

Biologist, pollinator conservationist, and award-winning author Heather Holm describes these plantings as soft landings for insects. Once the caterpillar of a moth or butterfly eats its fill of tree leaves, most of the time it drops to the ground to pupate. It may burrow into leaf litter or the ground.

However, most people leave grass under trees, which has to be mowed. This creates an ecological trap preventing butterflies and moths from reaching adulthood.

A soft landing is critical under certain trees such as oak, willow, cherry, pines, and poplars. These keystone species trees feed a lot of species of butterfly and moth caterpillars. According to famed entomologist and author Doug Tallamy, oak trees support 534 species of lepidoptera, the insect order containing butterflies and moths, and black cherry supports 456 species. One of Illinois’ most well-known moths, the Polyphemus moth, feeds on oak and black cherry trees.

Erin Garrett, Energy and Environmental Stewardship Extension educator, asks homeowners to picture the habitat around one of their trees.

“Is the lawn under that tree a safe space to be? No, it isn’t,” Garrett says. “With leaves raked up or mowed, and lawn grass mowed weekly, those caterpillars do not have a safe space to develop.”

These soft landings do more than prevent lawnmowers from running over pupating butterflies and moths, they also provide habitat for other beneficial insects such as bumblebees, fireflies, lacewings, and beetles.  

To create a soft landing, first, figure out if your tree’s roots are sensitive to disturbance. We would never want to harm roots on a tree. Severing even one major root can cause the loss of 15% to 25% of the root system according to the International Society of Arboriculture. Those with sensitive trees should apply properly mulched rings. 

If a soft landing is appropriate, smother grass with wet newspaper or mulch. Add compost 2 inches deep compost starting 18 inches from the trunk and ending at the dripline, or the overhead canopy, of the tree.

Use small plugs of groundcovers or seed mixed with small spring-flowering bulbs such as grape hyacinth, crocus, winter aconite, snow drops, or Siberian squill.

Although most bulbs thrive in full sun, it is a myth that you cannot grow spring-flowering bulbs in shady areas because bulbs have bloomed before trees fully leaf out.

Plants for dry shaded areas

These plants, which are available in flats as small plugs, are appropriate as a soft landing ground cover in dry shade.

Lamium has silver variegated leaves with showy purple, pink or white flowers that bloom from May to July. It grows 6 to 9 inches tall and has a 2- to 3-foot spread. When planting, it is best to space plugs 18- to 24 inches apart. This plant is resistant to deer munching.

Pachysandra is an evergreen of whorled glossy leaves that blooms white in April. This plant grows 6 to 12 inches high and spreads 12 inches. Leave plugs 12 inches apart. It will need to be thinned once it is well established to prevent disease. It is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Epimedium has compound heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems that turn red in the fall. It boasts attractive flowers of red or yellow in May. It grows 12- to 14 inches tall and spreads about 18 inches. It can be slow growing but is resistant to rabbit and deer.

Blue Sedge spreads quickly and combats weeds. The bluish-greenish foliage forms a nice mound and blooms mid-June to mid-July. This ground cover furthers contributing to the biodiversity by hosting skipper butterfly caterpillars and providing seed for birds.

Plants for wet shaded areas

Wild ginger is a native ground cover with a kidney shaped leaf that blooms in April at the base of the plant. When looking, you will find a purple cup-shaped flower that is usually covered by the foliage. It grows 6- to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It is resistant to deer.

Sweet Woodruff has a delicate leaf but is a mat-forming ground cover that blooms white in late spring. It grows 8 to 12 inches tall and spreads 12 to 18 inches. It has fragrant flowers and foliage that smells like fresh-cut hay when crushed. It can be planted under black walnut trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Christina Lueking

Willow trees are most well known for their long, draping branches that give them a refined and graceful appearance. That is unless it is a corkscrew willow.

The unique branching and twisting features of the Salix genus curly willow not only adds visual interest to the winter landscape but it can also be harvested and used for unique decorative arrangements says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Christina Lueking.

Curly willow has beautifully curled branches that have led to some crazy common names such as corkscrew willow, twisted willow, and snake willow. 

Site Selection

Woody varieties generally prefer fertile, well-drained soil and full sun throughout the day. However, willows are a perfect fit for filter strips between annual crops or wet areas with their mature branches that are upright with a few sweeping younger branches that droop until they become more mature. These trees are easily propagated and can have a long lifespan as a sculptural element in the landscape or a garden bed.  

The fall leaves turn a golden yellow color before dropping to show off the brilliantly colored burgundy or golden stems. Prune these stems to 3-foot-long sections and use the results in winter decorations.

Decorative Qualities

These sturdy bundles can be molded into round wreaths, heart-shaped designs, or even free flowing sculptures in vases with white lights. Have fun enhancing your décor or arrangements with this unique willow.

Harvest of branches can range from a few feet on shrubs to several feet on mature trees. Branches can be used as a fresh or dry product in floral arrangements. Remember to mold stems while they are pliable and bundle them with wire before they dry. It is harder to shape stems if they are completely dried.

Pests and Disease

Pests that like to feed on the leaves of the willow are aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, lace bugs, caterpillars, willow leaf beetles. The willow borer drills into the trunks and creates tunnels and the adults emerge to feed on the tissue of the branches.

Scout willows to spot infestations that can be controlled by pruning the heavily infested areas and disposing of the cuttings. The areas can then be sprayed with neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Willow trees do have a couple of disease issues including crown gall and willow scab. But with scouting and mulching you can be proactive in controlling these issues.

For more information on tree care, connect with your local Illinois Extension county office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Ryan Pankau

Every spring, magnolia trees across the Midwestern landscape offer some of the most spectacular flowering displays of any woody plant. These beautiful ornamental trees, native to Asia, are some of the first landscape plants in our area to deliver such a showy display; truly one of the most endorsing signs that spring is finally here.

Most of Illinois’ native, deciduous trees are primarily wind-pollinated and many bloom even earlier than magnolias, although often unnoticed by many of us says University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator Ryan Pankau. Their strategy is to produce a lot of pollen in the hopes that wind dispersion will spread their genes far and wide. Wind pollinated species do not need a showy display to attract pollinating animals or human attention. They typically lack aroma and nectar which, along with color, are the primary means plants use to attract pollinators to their flowers. 

Since most of our native trees, like oak, ash, and maple, evolved flowers for wind pollination, they are largely unnoticed during flowering.

Their smaller, low-key flowers are not designed to be colorful or attractive, but rather to allow tons of pollen to freely float away on the wind. Their pollen producing structures, called anthers, are often loosely attached, and hang down to dangle in the wind. 

Magnolias evolved a different strategy for pollination. Their flowers are quite showy, produce nectar, and have fragrance, all in the effort to attract insects. They invest more energy in these insect-attracting traits than pollen production, generating much less pollen per flower than their wind-pollinated cousins. 

The interesting twist with magnolias is that their genus Magnoliais quite ancient, evolving very early in the plant family tree, earlier than our native flowering trees. They are considered to be among the oldest of the flowering plants.

At the time of their evolution, many common pollinators we think of today, such as bees, butterflies, and moths had not evolved yet. As a result, magnolias developed flowers for pollination by beetles and flies, which were the primary insect pollinators 100 million years ago.

Magnolia flowers are relatively simple when compared to other, more specialized flowers. Pollen structures are arranged so that insects searching for a nectar reward will haphazardly bump into them and subsequently spread pollen as they amble from flower to flower. 

Flightless beetles were the primary constituents of magnolia flowers millions of years ago as they evolved and are often considered “dumb pollinators.” These poor insects get a bad rap because they cannot perform more advanced behaviors of butterflies and other pollinators that evolved later as the plant-pollinator relationship became more complex.  Butterflies and other “smarter” pollinators can perform advanced tasks, such as extraordinary feats of flower manipulation, to harvest pollen.

The lowly beetle, which receives a ton of credit for the early development of magnolia flowers, is left to dumbly wander from flower to flower. The process of co-evolution between flowering plants and insects is considered one of the most intricate multi-species evolutionary processes on earth.  When plants evolved flowers, it was a game-changer for plant reproduction. So, there is no reason to totally discount beetles as “dumb” since magnolia flowers would not be possible without these grunts of the pollinator world.

Consequently, magnolias evolved to accommodate their “less educated” pollinators with some specially tailored adaptations. Beetle mouthparts are made primarily for chewing, not pollen collection from delicate flower parts. Thus, other plant parts are often consumed in the process of harvesting pollen or nectar from the flowers.

Magnolia flowers have leathery, thick leaves along with seeds that are well protected to handle this kind of sloppiness.

Magnolias and their beetle friends are certainly an odd couple in the plant and insect world. However, their relationship has worked out wonderfully to produce some of our most exquisite flowering ornamental trees.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Horticulture Educator Emily Swihart

Life does not exist without water. Gardens don’t grow without water. But what happens when there is too much of a good thing? Or when that good thing is mismanaged and becomes a misfortune. Or when there are prolonged periods of drought?

The tale of stormwater is more frequently a story of feast or famine. Managing this resource onsite can have ripple effects downstream and throughout the watershed.

Rain gardens, bioswales, permeable pavement, are all methods to slow stormwater and prevent floods.

How Water Naturally Moves

Before Illinois was settled, it was covered in diverse ecosystems of prairies, woodlands, and wetlands. These features were connected through a vast network of river valleys and stream corridors. When rain fell, nearly all the water was absorbed into the soil where it was available for plant use or slowly percolated into groundwater.

Water that travels through the soil profile does so at a slower rate than water flowing on the surface. Water is cooled and filtered while traveling through the ground on its way to being discharged in a natural spring. The water that did exit the site as surface runoff, did so slowly, having to weave in and out of the stems of plant materials, minimizing the potential for erosion and flash flooding.

As human populations grew, large portions of natural ecosystems were converted into impermeable surfaced areas of rooftops, roads, and parking lots. Stormwater that falls on these areas cannot infiltrate into the soil, nor does it leisurely travel downslope. Stormwater on impermeable surfaces is quickly whisked away, traditionally toward a storm sewer.

Build with Green Infrastructure

In large storm events, communities with combined storm and sanitary sewer systems can become overwhelmed and flood.

Managing stormwater by channeling it can help minimize local flooding or water ponding but can compound challenges downstream. Furthermore, stormwater that is removed is no longer available during dry weather.

“Green infrastructure” systems more effectively manage stormwater and can help reduce runoff and capture rainwater onsite or close to where it falls. Many of these systems are beautiful and can easily be incorporated into existing landscapes. Multiple systems can be utilized for increased impact.

• Rain gardens are a depression or shallow basin planted with native species to capture runoff from an identified source and hold it temporarily until the water slowly filters out. Most native plant species have vast root systems that penetrate deep into the soil profile and encourage water infiltration. Properly designed and installed rain gardens do not hold water for long periods of time. Rain gardens can be beautifully designed and can incorporate steppingstones for access, sculptures for aesthetic appeal, or a wide variety of plant forms for a personalized effect.
• Bioswales, or stormwater swales, are similar to rain gardens. These shallow channels move water offsite. By design, the low slope and intentionally selected plant material move water slowly over the surface, increasing infiltration and filtering out contaminants prior to reaching a stream or storm sewer.
• Permeable pavement or pavers allow water to move through the hardscape into a gravel layer beneath. Water can be stored in the gravel until it is evaporated back into the atmosphere, it can move through the subsurface slowly before discharging into a storm sewer or can be removed from the site through a pipe into a rain garden or bioswale.
• Rain barrels and cisterns are containers that capture and store stormwater. Retained water is available for use during dry periods, typically to water landscape plants.

Incorporating green infrastructure into a home landscape is an excellent way to enhance aesthetic appeal while helping to better manage water resources. For more information, get in touch with horticulture staff at your local Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

Vermicomposting or vermiculture, which is also known as worm farming, is the practice of keeping worms to produce worm castings or vermicompost. Vermicomposting is a natural process where worms digest organic matter and produce a waste product that is high in plant-available nutrients, beneficial microbes, and organic matter.

Gardeners have been using vermicompost to improve soil and plant health for decades which is why it’s known as black gold.

Worm farmers often prefer to keep their worm bins outdoors or in an outbuilding. This is fine during the warm season as long as they are kept out of direct sunlight. However, in the months of winter, extra measures are needed to ensure the current worm population’s survival. 

Larger compost bins will maintain more of their internal heat and will give a deeper space for worms to migrate into if it gets a little too cold; smaller bins will need more protection. If you plan on keeping your bins outside, they can be insulated with blankets, burlap, straw, insulation foam, or other material as long as some gaps are left for air. If worms are kept outside and insulated, they will need less food over the winter months. The typical rate of feeding is 1lb of scraps per 1lb of worms a day, but in colder temperatures, this will be significantly reduced.

Another good option is to bring the bin indoors, where it will be much easier to maintain a steady temperature above 55°F. If worms will be stored in a garage or cold basement, keep them off cold floors. With proper safety precautions, a seed starter heating pad or space heater can be used to maintain temperatures and avoid freezing.

Easier yet, keep worm bins inside where they can be kept in a heated basement or closet.

The most recommended species of worm for vermicomposting, Red Wrigglers (Eisenia foetida), are most active at temperatures between 55°F to 77°F. While worms don’t exactly hibernate, they do slow down at cooler temperatures and will die when it gets close to freezing which is why it’s important to maintain a minimum temperature of around 55°F.

A great way to keep an eye on the temperature of the bin is to use a compost thermometer, which is great for other compost projects as well.

Worm bins should not smell bad. If they do, it usually means they are being overfed or there is too much moisture in the bin.

It’s also important to check on them every week or so to ensure they have adequate bedding and moisture. Due to the drier air conditions in winter, the bedding which typically consists of shredded paper or cardboard should be spritzed with water and moved around a bit to ensure airflow and moisture.

Whether keeping worms outdoors or bringing them in for the winter months, keeping them warm is key to having a happy worm that will produce nutrient-rich vermicompost for your garden.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Gemini Bhalsod, horticulture educator.

After this year’s summer drought in Illinois, it is more important than ever to monitor soil moisture conditions and water trees and shrubs going into winter. Drought conditions in the late fall, along with dry air and low soil moisture, can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided.

If soil is dry, homeowners should consider watering their trees and shrubs this fall and winter. Plants under water stress are more susceptible to insects and diseases. They can also experience injuries to roots or foliage.

Before watering, check the soil moisture. Monitor the moisture levels about once a week. Dig a small hole under the tree's drip line, 4 to 6 inches is enough. Feel for moisture. If the soil is dry, the tree should be watered. This little bit of consistent effort will pay off in the long run.

In particular, newly fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials should be monitored and watered late into the season, since they do not have as much time to develop extensive root systems as anything planted in the spring.

Pay attention to evergreens and shallow-rooted trees such as birches and maples. Some shallow-rooted trees can be identified by roots breaking the surface of the soil. Evergreens do not go dormant in the winter and are still actively respiring and lose water through their needles. Dormant trees respire at lower rates. Since soil insulates and cools down later in the year than the air temperature, roots stay warmer longer and respire at higher rates than the above-ground parts, the trunk, and branches, of deciduous trees after their leaves drop.

Only water when the temperature is above 40°F. In some places, that could be as late as the end of December. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because at this point the trees cannot absorb water through the frozen soil. 

To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water. Soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. This method results in less runoff and the water is more likely to be absorbed by the root zone. If your hose is stored away and your tree or shrub is small, pour water very slowly or drill a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill that with water.

Water at the tree’s drip line and not right against the base. To conserve water, start with newly planted trees and shrubs weekly and then large and established trees once a month if it is a dry period.

Avoid fertilizer, which stimulates late-season growth, and instead, consider applying mulch. Mulch can help conserve moisture over the winter months. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the base of the tree all the way to the drip line in a doughnut shape around the trunk, leaving 2-to 4 inches of space in between. As always, planting hardy species or cultivars with deep roots is best since they are more likely to be able to survive temperature fluctuations and prolonged periods of cold. 

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Bruce J. Black, horticulture educator

Winter is that time of year where gardeners rest and plan for spring. But with the holidays, why not make loved ones plant gifts?

Impossible bottles, or bottles with an object inside that doesn’t seem like it can fit through the bottle’s mouth, have been things of wonder throughout history with ships or decks of cards being built inside bottles. Bottle terrariums are similar feats of wonder using plants. Terrariums are either tightly closed or open transparent containers with plants inside. Credited for inventing terrariums, Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward used hermetically sealed glass containers with soil inside to better observe the change of the chrysalis of sphinx moths.

Bottle terrariums are a creative way to use plants. Recycling old bottles and turning them into works of art is fun and easy.

When designing a bottle terrarium there are a few questions to think about first. Will it be an open or closed terrarium? What type of container is wanted? What is the theme? What plants –tall or small –will be used? Are there any additional decorations?

Closed terrariums will act like a greenhouse and be a mini-ecosystem. Bottle terrariums with caps, corks, or tightly fitting lids will trap the moisture inside where it will cycle. Open containers are more of a display allowing for larger and taller plants.

Any transparent container can be used as a terrarium. Glass and plastic are the two most common mediums. Besides bottles, commonly used items are fish bowls, fish tanks, jugs, jars, or light bulbs.

The best part is coming up with a theme. Developing a theme based on an event, season, movie, or genre can help to tell a story and make your terrarium unique.

To build a terrarium, first, start off with a drainage material such as gravel or stones. This allows water to pool without soaking the soil. When using foraged rocks or shells, boil them for five minutes at a rolling boil to sterilize them and prevent disease or insect issues. Allow them to cool before using.

Add activated charcoal to help eliminate chemicals that could harm the plants. Activated charcoal can be found at garden centers. It absorbs any unwanted chemicals that would be taken up by the plant and harm it. Next, add a pre-moistened potting mix suitable for the chosen plants. The gravel, activated charcoal, and potting mix should make up about a quarter of the container volume.

Many plant types such as Kalanchoe, Sempervivum, Crassula, Echeveria, Sedum can be used in terrariums. To add the plants, skewers, pipe cleaners, and long-handled tweezers may be needed depending on the size of the container’s opening. When placing plants, don’t let the foliage touch the sides of the container and wipe any debris off plants with a clean paintbrush.

Clean any figures, toys, glass, pebbles, or ceramic structures with an alcohol or 10% bleach solution and allow them to dry. Dried flowers or wood may also add to the story. Supplies can be purchased from dollar stores, craft shops, and local garden centers.

To care for the new terrarium, place it near a south or western facing window or near supplemental lighting, not in direct light. Most terrarium plants are in the medium-light requirement category. Watering will vary. Closed, tightly sealed containers will only need to be watered every four to six months. Wilting plants and bottles with no condensation are a sign watering is needed.

Open containers need to be watered more often depending on humidity levels in the home. For maintenance, don’t overwater, remove any dying leaves, turn the container weekly to keep plants growing normally, and prune or pinch plants that get tall.

Making terrariums is a great family or friends’ activity. I enjoy making them with youth and they make great gifts with the holidays coming up.

For more information, watch a Creating a Bottle Terrarium webinar at go.illinois.edu/BottleTerrarium.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator

With their vibrant, floral displays and low-maintenance needs, holiday cacti are a great holiday gift. Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cactus are each different species. They bloom reliably each year without much upkeep. 

Every December, one plant in my office comes to life despite the minimal care it receives. The plant has remained in the 6-inch pot for nine years now, receives water when it is dry, and has been used prolifically in propagation workshops for Master Gardeners.

Holiday cacti are easily distinguished by the stem margins as well as timing of flowering. These cacti don't have true leaves; instead, they have flattened stem segments that are used in propagation to grow new plants.

Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Jennifer Fishburn says holiday cacti are the gift that keep on giving. They are often passed down from generation to generation as family heirlooms because they are so long-lived. 

Thanksgiving cactus, Schlumbergera truncate, has two to four saw-toothed projections resembling crab claws. Flowers are produced from late November to late December. Flower colors include white, red, lavender, salmon, orange, and yellow.

Thanksgiving cacti are often forced into bloom and sold at Christmas time, and are often misnamed Christmas cacti. 

Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera x buckleyi, has scalloped or rounded stem margins. Flowers are generally showy from late December through March. The flowers form at the tips of segments.

Easter cactus, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, has four to six rounded teeth along the stem edges and brownish hairs at the leaf tips. Flowers in shades of pink or red flowers appear March through May. Easter cactus may re-bloom.

Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti blooms are triggered by day length. They bloom when they receive 12 to 15 hours of darkness a day for five to six weeks and are exposed to cool night temperatures.

Holiday cacti are commonly used to demonstrate propagation because leaf cuttings, rather than stem cuttings, can be used to generate new plants. However, cacti do not have true leaves. The leaves are actually stems called cladophylls.

Despite being a cactus, these plants are native to the tropical rain forest and are watered regularly with other houseplants. Water cacti when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch.

To gift holiday cacti, look for 4, 6, and 8-inch pots at garden centers. Find a decorative container with a hole in the bottom of the same size. Remember these cacti are long-lived and can thrive in this pot for the next 15 years.

When transporting cacti, wrap and bag plants to prevent exposure to cold temperatures as the buds will be severely damaged by time spent outside.

Holiday cacti can bloom profusely for a month or two and may even bloom twice a year. While in bloom, use cacti as decoration, keep them away from heat sources, and water regularly.

As a houseplant, place in front of a window and water regularly. In the summer, these tropical houseplants can go outside in a partially shaded area. Between April and October, fertilize every four weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator

With their bright red blooms, Poinsettia’s are a holiday tradition, but buyers don’t have to limit their selection to one color. This winter, celebrate and decorate with a rainbow of Poinsettias.

University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator Andrew Holsinger says there are plenty of new Poinsettia hues to choose from.

Beyond the traditional natural shades of red there are many other colors that can be sought after when purchasing a Poinsettia. If you are like me, you don’t want to limit your selection to the traditional red.

A number of natural colors are available including pink, white, yellow, and salmon. Any blue and purple Poinsettias are actually cream-colored varieties that have been spray painted. 

Poinsettia’s color come from bracts which are actually modified leaves. These bracts are prompted to change color in response to shorter winter daylight. While bracts of some varieties of Poinsettia are uniformly colored, others offer patterns that add to the uniqueness of these plants.

Some new and unique varieties to look for are ‘Orange Spice,’ ‘Ice Punch,’ ‘Peppermint Twist,' ‘Winter Rose,’ ‘Red Winter Rose,’ and ‘Red Glitter.’

Poinsettias are compact plants that when properly cared for have a long-lasting display of color. Keeping them at the ideal temperature of 65⁰F to 70⁰F during the day will keep the plants healthy and colors more vibrant. Single plants can be used as tabletop floral display. A mass display of Poinsettias for makes a stunning wave of holiday color.

After the holidays are over, Poinsettias can be kept for the next season. To ‘rebloom’ a Poinsettia, bring it inside after summer and provide the proper lighting conditions to trigger the coloring.

Artificially colored Poinsettia will not carry over their dyed color.

When choosing plants, select Poinsettias with cyathia that are green-tipped or red-tipped. Instead of the colorful bracts, The cyathia are the true flowers of these plants. The greenish-yellow flowers are clustered at the center of the bracts. The cyathia can be examined when purchasing a Poinsettia to determine freshness and duration of bloom. Plants with yellow cyathia or pollen indicate that the plant is past its prime.

A healthy plant will need an appropriate location. Provide adequate light but not direct sun. Avoid drafts from windows or heating vents. Make sure that adequate drainage is provided. Foil wrappings often foil the success of keeping Poinsettias for the duration of the holiday season since they keep the container from fully draining.

When decorating your home, a fun crafty project can be to paint Poinsettias. Start with a cream-colored variety and obtain a dye suited used for floral application. Make sure to protect tabletops when applying special floral spray paints.

Explore more about how to care for Poinsettias with a University of Illinois Extension infosheet https://go.illinois.edu/PoinsettiaCare.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Once holidays are over, the Christmas trees tend to come down. Instead of hauling this year’s tree to the dump or having the city pick it up, consider repurposing it in your landscape.

Ken Johnson says one popular use for Christmas trees after the holidays is to use them to block wind that can hinder feeding birds.

Trees can be used as a windbreak by placing them to the northwest of feeders to block where our prevailing winds come from this time of year. Not only will this help protect birds from the wind as they feed, but it can also prevent birdseed from blowing out of feeders.

Additionally, trees can be turned into a large festive bird feeder. Anchor the tree to the ground using a steel fence post. Then decorate it with strings of popcorn and/or cranberries, as well as pinecones smeared with peanut butter and sunflower seeds, suet, or chopped fruit in a mesh bag.

Christmas trees can also be used to create habitat for other wildlife in the form of brush piles. Place brush piles near field borders and in woodland areas along with other brush to provide cover for wildlife. Before building a brush pile, check for local ordinances that may prohibit them. 

Another use for your Christmas tree includes providing a habitat for aquatic wildlife. Trees can be sunk in ponds to provide shelter for fish and other aquatic life. A single tree won’t offer much habitat, so it’s best to group three or four together. Trees should be sunk vertically using rocks or concrete blocks as anchors.

In the garden, evergreen branches and needles can be used as mulches to cover perennial plants during the winter. These mulches are light and won't pack or suffocate the roots of the plants they are protecting. Trees can also be chipped and used as mulch in the garden to help reduce weed problems, moderate soil temperature, and retain moisture.

Your Christmas tree can also be a good source of wood for an outdoor fire. The branches and needles are good for getting fires started, and the trunk can be used as fuel.

Never burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace or woodstove. It may contribute to creosote buildup and could cause a chimney fire.

Finally, trees can be used in a variety of crafty ways. The needles can be used to make potpourri. When dry, the trunk can be cut into wooden discs and used as coasters or trivets, used to edge garden beds, or decorated and turned into ornaments.

Regardless of how a tree is reused after the holidays, make sure to remove all ornaments and tinsel.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator 

Free your houseplants’ roots this winter by creating organic art for your home through kokedama, a form of Japanese bonsai, where plants are grown in a special soil mix and wrapped in moss. Kokedama is a uniquely beautiful way to grow houseplants in a non-traditional way.

Kokedamas can be displayed on decorative trays or dishes, antique bowls or saucers, or attached to a piece of driftwood. They can also be hung with decorative string or wire from a window or ceiling, creating a string garden with more than more kokedama. These beautiful, natural planters make a great gift or can add a little green to your winter space.

Many different kinds of plants can successfully be grown as kokedama. An established houseplant that needs to be repotted, cuttings of houseplants with newly developed roots, or seasonal plants to decorate your space can all be planted in the moss balls.

Ideal plants would be ones that can grow in drier conditions, such as ferns, philodendron, dracaena, spider plants, and even small orchids. Succulents can also be planted in moss balls but will require less water.

Kokedamas can be created with any size plant. The size of the ball will just vary to accommodate the root mass of the plant.

Needed Materials

• Lightweight potting mix or peat moss
• Akadama, a coarse clay-like mineral used as bonsai tree soil.
• Moss, sheet or Spanish
• String
• Scissors
• Water

Directions

1. Start by soaking the moss in a bucket of water for one hour to rehydrate the organic material. Then, squeeze out the excess liquid and set it aside. 
2. Combine the soil mixture of 70% potting mix or peat moss and 30% bonsai soil to create the ball. Slowly add water to the mixture until it can be pressed firmly into a ball without falling apart.
3. Remove the plant from its container and gently break apart the root ball and remove any excess soil, exposing most of the roots.
4. Create a hole in the soil ball large enough to fit the roots of the plant inside. You can also gently break the soil ball into two pieces, lay the roots on one side, and push the soil back together around the roots.
5. Press the moss around the soil ball until it is fully covered. Or, create a thin layer of moss on a flat surface, set the ball in the middle, and wrap the moss around the ball.
6. Use the string to attach the moss to the ball. Secure the string to the ball and wrap it randomly around the ball in every direction to keep the moss in place. Tie it off tightly to create a firm, sturdy ball. 

Proper watering will be key to keeping your kokedama alive. Stick your finger in the top of the ball near the base of the plant to feel if the soil is dry. The weight of the ball will also tell you. Is it light? It is time to water.

To water the kokedama, fill a bucket or sink with lukewarm water. Gently push the moss ball into the water so it starts to absorb the water. Soak the completely submerged ball in the water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the water and squeeze the moss ball to remove excess water, and let it drip dry before returning it to its decorative space. Mist the moss ball between watering to keep it from completely drying out.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

Healthy soil is essential for healthy plants. Using cover crops in the home garden is one way to promote soil health.

Cover crops are non-harvested crops that add organic matter to the soil, transfer nitrogen to plants, and break up heavy clay or compacted soil. They are commonly used in agriculture, but also have a place in the home garden.

Cover crops are planted before a garden is planted or after harvest. Cover crops can also be planted in areas that are unused for the season. Using cover crops in the home garden has many benefits.

Improving soil structure, drawing nutrients up from deep in the soil, and increasing soil fertility are just a few ways cover crops to improve soil health. Suppression of weeds, habitat for beneficial insects, increased biodiversity are other ways cover crops work for the garden's good.

There are two types of cover crops to consider, warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season cover crops are planted in spring or summer before the garden is planted or in a fallow area. Buckwheat, cowpeas, and crimson clover are warm-season are common cover crops used in the home garden.

Cool-season cover crops are planted in late summer or early fall after the vegetables are harvested. Oats, winter wheat, winter rye, and crimson clover can be used as cool-season cover crops.

Keep in mind that these cool-season cover crops need to germinate and grow before winter temperatures.

Crimson clover and cowpeas are legumes that take nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form usable by plants. Notice that crimson clover can be used as either a warm-season or cool-season cover crop.

When planting a cover crop, there is no need to cover the seeds. Allow the plants to grow until the flowering stage. Once flowering begins, either mow or cut down as close to the ground as possible to prevent seed formation. If the crop is cut down too early, it may regrow. If it is cut down too late, it may reseed.

After cutting down the cover crop, leave the cut portion as a mulch on top of the soil or till it into the ground. Both options have their benefits. Leaving the plant material as a mulch can suppress weeds. Tilling can help incorporate the organic matter into the soil, but it also disrupts the delicate soil ecosystem.

Each garden is unique, so you must decide what is suitable for each situation.

Winter hardy cover crops or crops not killed by the mowing could be tilled into the soil. A cover crop that is killed by winter temperatures would not require tilling the debris into the soil.

It is important to follow the “mow, wait, plant” rule when using cover crops. After mowing a cover crop, leave the plant debris to sit for two to four weeks before planting anything else. The residue needs to break down and the flush of microbial activity needs to slow before new plants start growing.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

January begins the annual flight of vegetable, flower, and fruit tree catalogs to your mailbox or inbox. Depending on your level of gardening, the catalogs are starting to arrive frequently and en mass.

It used to be you would get either a vegetable catalog or a fruit catalog or flower catalog. Many catalogs now contain something for everyone, including the garden gadget addicts.

Illinois gardeners should start by looking for plants that thrive in USDA Hardiness Zone 5. Many catalogs offer heirloom vegetables, flowers, and fruit trees. These heirloom varieties can be some of the best tasting and or more unusual looking fruits and vegetables we get to eat.

They are called heirloom since they have had no or very little traditional breeding. This can mean they will have more disease problems though and often less production as well.

With all the plant breeding work going on, vegetables can take on new colors that are a bit outside the lines. Consider a blue potato or perhaps the more acceptable colors of green peppers being yellow, red, purple, orange. These look great in salads and other dishes. It used to be that Swiss chard was green, but it is now also available in shades of pink, orange, yellow, gold, white and purple. Newer varieties have a slenderer stalk and can be used to brighten up salads or cooked as you would use spinach.

Small fruits such as strawberries come in a variety of shades of red now. More small fruits options are also now available. Plant breeders have had success transforming smaller fruiting shrubs such as currants, gooseberries, and Aronia into well performing plants for the home garden. Rhubarb and asparagus are great additions to the garden.

Technology has been transforming gardening. There is a garden gadget for everyone. Gardeners who start their own seeds will find a variety of pots, seed starting soil mixes, markers, and more. You can start your seeds in flats individual cell packs like you see when you buy your annual flowers, or even expanding pellets. 

Planting can be done in pots made of plastic, bio-renewable materials, or an organic fiber. Additional accessories that make seed starting easier include warming mats in sizes from one six pack to a full tray, plant stands with growing lights and self-watering trays, or a variety of temporary outdoor structures to use to grow out and harden vegetable plants before they go into the garden. 

Hand tools are forever evolving each with their own unique characteristics. Choose wisely and choose what feels comfortable for you. Your gardening style changes as you age, so will your tools.

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Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Throughout the growing season, gardeners and arborists talk about the benefits of pruning woody ornamentals while they are dormant, and that time is almost here.

Pruning can seem like a daunting task, but it is an important cultural practice for the health and vigor of many trees and shrubs. Pruning is done to reduce the size and shape of the plant, increase flower or fruit production, and promote sound structure.

The correct time to prune deciduous shrubs and trees is determined by the plant’s growth habit, bloom time, and health or condition. Timing will depend on the species, but any time is a good time to remove dead, dying, or broken branches. Be sure to sanitize tools between plants with a 10% bleach solution or undiluted 70% isopropyl alcohol. Sanitize between each cut if a disease is suspected.

Spring flowering shrubs, such as lilac or forsythia, will bloom on the growth from the previous last growing season, sometimes called "old wood". The best time to prune a healthy plant is immediately after flowering in spring. Overgrown shrubs may need more extensive pruning through rejuvenation or renewal methods in late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning methods may lead to fewer blooms for a few years, but will improve the overall health of the shrub.

Summer blooming shrubs, or those that bloom after July 1, produce blooms on the current year’s growth. These are best pruned in late winter or early spring.

Do not prune deciduous shrubs in late summer as that will encourage a flush of new growth that will not have the opportunity to harden off before winter, leaving the plant susceptible to frost damage and dieback

Many of the same rules for shrubs also apply to deciduous trees. Most will respond well to late winter pruning, including fruit trees. Performing this task on trees in the dormant season gives the pruner an increased visibility of the tree’s shape without any leaves and enough time for proper wound closure for the plant. When branches are cut correctly at a node or at the branch collar, the plant will seal wounds properly to prevent the spread of decay and entry for potential pests and pathogens.

There are some exceptions to early spring pruning. To reduce the spread of oak wilt disease, oaks should not be pruned from March through October. River birch will respond best to cuts made in late fall or early winter after leaves have fallen and when sap flow is reduced.

Pruning techniques on evergreens will vary  depending on the species and desired effect. Fall pruning is not recommended for evergreens, as any new growth will be susceptible to winter injury. Evergreen shrubs such as juniper and yew can be pruned in March or April before new growth emerges. Evergreen trees such as pine, spruce, and fir generally require very little pruning, and removing lower branches is not advisable as it compromises the structural integrity of the tree.

Spruce and fir trees have lateral buds on the newest growth. These are buds that grow from the sides of the branch, not the ends. To create a more dense form, prune back to these lateral buds in early spring. Pines only grow from terminal buds at the end of the branch. Pines are pruned in spring or early summer at the candle stage by removing two-thirds of the elongated bud. Do not cut branches back to older growth as they will not develop new growth from those areas.

Relieve the winter blues by choosing the next calm, sunny, 40-degree day to put on boots and get some sunshine. The improved health of your trees and shrubs will be worth it.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Fall gardens may need some added pops of color this time of year to maintain beauty and diversity until winter arrives. Asters are a late-blooming, pollinator friendly flower that looks great in the garden and in a fall floral display. 

Think beyond the obvious, fall-blooming favorite mums this year. Select a gorgeous, full-of-color aster instead.

There are 180 species of aster, many of which are native to Illinois. Their dainty, daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, white, pink, and red, all with bright yellow centers. New England aster, Symphyotrichum novaeangliae, and aromatic aster, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, are two easy-to-find favorites. 

Where to Plant Them

Asters grow best in full sun to partial shade areas with well-drained soils. They are typically perennials in Illinois gardens, but need to be in the ground at least six weeks before it freezes to develop a good root system and overwinter successfully.  

Varieties can vary in height from 6 inches to 6 feet. Taller varieties can be pruned back by a third several times throughout the summer, stopping in late July, to create a more compact plant. This will also increase the number of blooms on the plant.  

Asters will begin to bloom when the days get shorter in late summer to early fall. They are short-day plants, like mums, meaning they need long periods of darkness to initiate flower buds.  

Beware, it is normal for the lower leaves to turn brown and dry up when the plant is in full bloom.

Care and Dividing

To prevent asters from self-seeding throughout the garden, cut back the plant to about 2 inches above ground level after the first hard frost has turned the foliage brown. Gardeners can also choose to leave the plant and developing seeds for winter interest and for the birds to enjoy.  

To keep asters tidy and healthy, divide the plants in early spring every two to three years, or when the center dies out. Some varieties are unfortunately prone to powdery mildew, which can be reduced with good air circulation and watering in the morning at the base of the plant. 

A bee and butterfly favorite, asters are a great source of fall nectar for pollinators traveling on their fall migration. While most flowers have already finished blooming, asters are just starting their show in the garden.

They serve as the larval host plant for several butterflies and moths, including painted lady butterflies.   

Asters also make great cut flowers for mixed fall arrangements. Arrange them with bright yellow goldenrod and ornamental grasses for a stunning autumnal décor display.  

For more information on garden care, find a local Extension expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Kelly Allsup, horticulture educator 

While the bumblebee is likely the most well-known pollinator, pollinators come in a variety of shapes, species, and sizes.

Many entomologists believe the tiny sweat bee nectaring on your flowering weed is just as important to a healthy ecosystem as the more well-known bumble bee and honey bee.

Gardeners and homeowners can make a space more attractive to the small pollinators of Illinois by planting miniature flowers. These little bees, about the size of an ant, love pollinating miniature flowers in an urban environment where there is usually more floral diversity than in rural areas.  

When spring comes, instead of cutting your garden back to the ground, consider removing only the top of the stems to encourage opportunistic bees like small carpenter bees to make nesting cells to overwinter in.

Small Bees to Look For

Small sweat bees, Lasioglossum, are dark brown, gray, black, or metallic with hairs on their legs and abdomen giving them a fuzzy appearance. These pollinating bees nest in bare ground that has loose soil. They nest individually, but there may be multiple nests in one area.

Small sweat bees are especially attracted to a much-beloved Illinois native shrub, button bush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Button bush boasts minuscule tube-shaped florets on a globular white seed head in the middle of summer, followed by an ornamental red seed head. This large shrub grows to about 6 to 8 feet and can form thickets in wet environments. 

Yellow-faced or masked bees, Hylaeus, are dark bees that look like wasps with their yellow or white face markings. Lacking the hair of typical pollinating bees, these tiny bees ingest pollen and nectar, then regurgitate the mixture in nesting cells to feed larvae when they hatch.

This pollinator emerges in the late spring when the bold flowers of golden alexanders, Zizia aurea, begin to bloom and remains active until the compound flowers of goldenrod, Solidago spp, start to fade. Yellow-faced bees can be seen pollinating the miniature white and purple flowers of common mountain mint, Pycnanthemum virginianum. These small flowers are arranged in clusters that bloom in late summer.

Small carpenter bees, Ceratina, which are black and metallic blue, excavate the center of small stems in the garden. They have fine pollen-collecting hairs on their legs and carry pollen and nectar back to the nest within the stem.

Small carpenter bees are attracted to small flowers of spring-blooming pussy willow, Salix spp, and summer-blooming yarrow, Achillea millefolium. Yarrow flowers cannot pollinate themselves and rely on the service of small bees.

For more information on how to support pollinators, contact a local Extension horticulture expert at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Christopher Enroth, horticulture educator 

Fall is a great time to plant trees, many of which are originally grown at a nursery either in a plastic container or in the ground before they are balled and burlapped. How the tree is grown in its first years and then planted affects the long-term health of the tree.

Balled-and-burlapped trees are still widely used especially for planting larger nursery stock.  

What are Balled-and-Burlapped Trees?

Balled-and-burlapped trees are grown in ground at the nursery. When it is time to sell the tree, a large machine called a tree spade digs up an intact root ball. However, many of the smaller roots are lost when the tree spade pulls up the root ball. Up to 90% of the entire root system may be lost as the tree is removed from the ground.

The root ball is then wrapped in burlap and set in a wire cage that is tied tightly to keep the root ball intact while it is moved to the planting site.

Once at the planting site, the debate about the next steps begins. Either the tree can be planted with the wire cage and burlap still in place, or the wire cage can be removed and the burlap cut or rolled down, exposing at least the top third of the root ball.

Does Burlap and Wire Help or Hinder Trees?

Those arguing for leaving on the burlap and wire cage say it helps with establishment by guaranteeing the root ball is not disturbed and protecting any remaining roots. It also maintains the soil structure around the root system. If the burlap used is natural, the fibers will decompose and the tree will grow around the wire cage. Removing the materials takes installation crews longer, which leads to greater expense.

On the flip side, some contend that leaving the burlap and wire cage on negatively affects the long-term health of the tree. Leaving the burlap on hinders root development into the native soil. Burying the burlap slows its decomposition making it a barrier for much longer than expected.

If the tree is an unstoppable force, then the wire cage is like an immovable object the tree cannot grow around. Eventually, the tree will conflict with the cage and may grow around it, but could possibly become girdled.

In the scientific studies comparing the two methods for planting balled and burlapped trees, researchers found little difference in the overall growth and health of the trees in both situations. However, time is a major factor

If all goes as planned, a newly planted tree is expected to out-live the gardener. But scientists need to publish their data while still alive so very few long-term studies exist.

Examining the arguments for and against removing the material from a balled-and-burlapped tree, it seems to be a trade-off between successful establishment and long-term health.

Post-Planting Tree Care

This entire debate is secondary to other tree planting and care items, such as watering and pruning for future tree structure. Without basic tree care, it won’t matter whether the burlap was left on or not.

The following steps are great recommendations to follow when planting new balled-and-burlapped trees.

• Remove and discard any twine on the base of the tree and the basket.
• Pull back burlap from the top of the root ball.
• Remove soil from the top of the root ball to find where the trunk starts to flare outward. If no flare is found, which is common on conifers, remove the soil to the topmost root.
• Remove the top one-third of the wire basket.
• Pull back or remove burlap in the top one-third of the basket.
• Backfill soil, filling in all air pockets.
• Stake the tree if necessary

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, horticulture educator 

The splendor of trees and shrubs comes from what is above ground, but don’t forget about what lies beneath. Poorly drained areas, easily identified after a downpour of rain, are not suitable for some trees or shrubs.

Soil plays a vital role in the survival of trees and shrubs in the landscape. 

Planting the right trees and shrubs in poorly drained sites has many benefits. Roots take up excess water and promote improved soil filtration. Reducing standing water can help decrease mosquito populations and create a more pleasurable environment. Surface drainage may be preferred over sub-soil drainage, which is limited or slow. Moving the water away is a great start.

Tree placement and Care

When deciding on a new tree for a wet area, think up and down, imagining both the mature canopy and the expansion of the root system.

Trees that do well in wetter soils often have a shallower root system, so be prepared to find those roots at or near the surface as the tree matures.

Placement will be pivotal for tree success, especially when planting in wet soils. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in the soil, influences soil moisture retention. Soil texture also influences aeration, how air moves through the soil. Avoid heavy clay soils, which have poor aeration and drainage, and hardpan soil, which is underlaid with rocky material that can interfere with root development.

Do not plant trees in wet areas in the fall. One threat to planting in wet soils is frost heaving, an upward swelling of the soil during freezing conditions caused by ice formation in the pore spaces of soils.

Plant trees and shrubs on wet sites during the early spring to ensure a full season of growth and reduce the likelihood of frost heaving that happens with a fall planting. 

Other placement considerations include precipitation patterns and poorly-timed or located irrigation systems. Downspout rain discharge may also influence the suitability of a planting site.

Looking at the distribution of trees in the wild can also help guide plant selection. However, some species such as bald cypress or black gum can adapt to heavy moisture and other growing conditions that may not occur where they are naturally found.

Research to find out what the requirements for moisture are when selecting trees and shrubs. Prior performance will also indicate what trees or shrubs may be successful in your landscape.

Know Before You Grow

It is much more cost-effective to plant the right species for the location than to try to adjust the site conditions. 

Trees and shrubs that thrive in wet sites include:

• Downy serviceberry, Amelanchier arborea
• River birch, Betula nigra
• American hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana
• Common hackberry, Celtis occidentalis
• Dawn redwood, Metasequoia glyptostroboides
• Black gum, Nyssa sylvatica
• Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum
• Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis
• Gray dogwood, Cornus racemose
• Redosier dogwood, Cornus sericea
• Spice bush, Lindera benzoin

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator 

Birdseed and firewood are two common topics that show up every fall. Both take some planning to be successful. 

Feeding Birds in the Winter

Feeding the birds means starting earlier than later. Birds need to know early on that there will be something to eat on a regular basis if you want them to hang around in your yard. 

With the recent outbreak of songbird deaths, Illinois officials are not currently recommending removing feeders, but stress cleaning and sanitizing feeders every two weeks and hummingbird feeders weekly.

Choose the Right Birdseed

Buying birdseed that has a little bit of everything for every bird can add up to a lot of wasted seed on the ground. Consider putting out seed that will attract only your favorite birds. This can be more cost-effective as the unwanted seed will feed four-legged critters, not to mention make a mess on the patio or in the lawn.

The type of birdseed chosen will also help determine the kind of feeder needed. Typically, feeders are designed for the size of seed being distributed — thistle versus sunflower, for example.

You may end up with several feeders catering to a variety of your favorite birds.

Birdseed can be a feeding source for pantry pests such as the Indian Meal Moth, so keep seed securely covered and consider storage in a cool garage.

Most think of feeding birds, fewer think about supplying water, too. Consider birdbaths that have a heating element to keep them from icing over in the winter.

Seasoning and Storing Winter Firewood

Now on to firewood. It is never a good idea to burn “green” firewood in the home fireplace as it will take heat away from the room and can add substantially to the creosote buildup in the chimney. Outdoors it can make for so much smoke it is impossible to sit close enough to enjoy the fire.

It may not be critical to have the best firewood to burn in an outdoor fire pit, but it is an entirely different story for the indoor fireplace.

Seasoned firewood means the wood, for logs more than 6 inches, has been cut, split, and dried for a long time. Clues that the wood is seasoned are a gray color on the ends of a log and checkmarks showing moisture loss.

Firewood should be around 20% to 25% moisture to burn well and limit smoke. Those who purchase well-seasoned wood need to keep it dry before burning it.

Make the woodpile easy to uncover and recover, or you will find yourself leaving the cover off and allowing the firewood to reabsorb the water you paid to remove.

As a rule, the heavier the firewood, given the same moisture content, the more heat it will give off. This is something to consider if there are different tree species available to purchase.

Once the home fireplace is being regularly used, only bring in the amount of firewood expected to be used in a week. It takes more than a week to “thaw out” any outdoor insects that have hidden in cracks and crevices on the bark.

This practice will keep the insects from wandering around your home and, while not likely to do any damage indoors, will keep family peace.

As an additional precaution, when stacking firewood next to the outside wall of a home, leave a few inches between for good air movement and an extra barrier for insects.

More information about cutting, purchasing, and burning firewood is available at go.illinois.edu/Firewood.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator 

As the growing season wraps up and gardeners put vegetable beds to rest and clean and store tools for the winter, there is one task they may be forgetting. Testing the soil’s nutrients can provide a better understanding of a garden’s health and save money in the long run.

Over time, soil fertility, pH, and even soil structure can change as nutrients are depleted. Testing soils will identify missing nutrients that can then be addressed as needed. Unless there is a specific issue being remedied, soil should be tested every three to five years.

Fall is a great time for gardeners to test since soil temperatures are still above 50°F and the growing season is slowing down. Any added organic matter will then decompose, and nutrients will filter into the soil over winter well before planting season.

Depending on the soil’s natural fertility and what is being grown in it, plants can perform well for years without needing fertilizer. While fertilization can help with plant vigor and vitality, experts recommend first establishing a need and purpose for fertilizer. Understanding soil nutrient concentrations before applying fertilizer is important in a sustainable landscape.

If fertilizer is not necessary, why waste product and time applying it? Overfertilization can harm trees, shrubs, and even turfgrass, especially during drought conditions.

Excess fertilizer can also end up in waterways and lead to aquatic life and water quality issues.

What do Soil Tests Tell Gardeners? 

A basic soil test will measure soil pH and organic matter as well as macronutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7 and most horticultural crops do well in the range of 6 to 6.8. Many soil testing labs will also measure amounts of micronutrients such as boron, copper, iron, or manganese.

If you are concerned about soil contaminants, such as lead in an urban site, contact the soil lab about specific instructions and additional costs.

Since soil samples must represent an entire yard or garden, take several core samples from evenly distributed spots and then mix them together. Remove any roots, rocks, or twigs. Gardeners can use a soil probe, sharp spade, or trowel to gather soil, taking care to remove the same amount for each sample. If comparing soils, such as a seemingly fertile soil and one that does not produce well, take and test two separate samples.

Home soil test kits are widely variable and not recommended. There are several soil testing labs in Illinois. Labs vary in pricing and services, so call before mailing soil samples.

Many labs will provide interpretation of the soil test results upon request and Illinois Extension horticulture staff can provide further guidance. Locate a local county Extension office go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Along with soil testing, preventative plant care can reduce the need for not only fertilizers, but herbicides and pesticides as well. Most healthy trees and shrubs do not need fertilizers once they are mature and native annuals and perennials are more suited to local soils than non-native species reducing the need for fertilizer. Established lawns benefit from cultural practices such as using disease-resistant varieties, soil aeration, over-seeding, and mowing at the correct height with sharp mower blades.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape, or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Mary Fischer, horticulture educator 

One of the pricier expenditures for home gardeners is quality hand tools. High-quality tools will last longer, but this does mean the tools — whether shovels, rakes, pruners, or hand trowels — cost more.

Buy the best you can afford. Take care of your tools, and they will take care of you. This takes time and effort, but can extend the life of your investment.

With winter coming up, make sure to clean, oil, and sharpen tools before storing them for the season.

Store Garden Tools Properly

The first step to tool maintenance is proper storage. Do not leave tools outside where they can absorb moisture from wet grass and dew. Instead, store tools off the ground and away from potential moisture, such as in a shed, barn, or garage.

• Long-handled tools can be stored conveniently on hanging racks or tool holders, which helps prevent damage to sharpened edges and keeps the tools organized. Often more than one tool can be hung in a small area.
• Short-handled or hand tools can be stored using a pegboard system.
• An outline of the tool drawn on the pegboard can help identify a missing tool. If a tool is missing, check outside. Attach bright marking tape to the handle of tools to spot them more easily outdoors.

Maintenance and Care

Garden tools are typically exposed to soil and moisture. To preserve tools and keep them in proper working order, it is extremely important for tools to be clean and dry before storing.

Use a wire brush, paint scraper, or a strong blast from a hose to remove caked-on soil from shovels and hand trowels. Wipe small hand tools, such as pruners or shears, to remove any sap or moisture from the blades. Turpentine, alcohol, or mineral spirits can remove stubborn sap. Fine steel may be used, if needed.

Once clean and dry, apply an oil-based protective coating to any metal surfaces to prevent rust. If desired, use a good quality spray paint to protect metal surfaces. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment to protect eyes and hands while doing this.

Wooden handles should be free of rough areas. Sanding will help smooth out these spots. To maintain the life of the wooden handles, apply a protective coating using boiled linseed oil, oil from dried flax seeds. Polish smooth with a dry soft cloth.

Good quality hand pruners can be disassembled for cleaning and sharpening. Many pruner manufacturers have replaceable blades. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool and a good deal of effort to remove dirt, rust, and sap from pruner blades.

It’s very important to examine the blades for any damage due to cracks, nicks, or burrs. The beveled edge of the blade should be sharpened at the same angle as the bevel.

Before storing tools away for the winter, sharpen any dull tools used for digging or pruning and file down any nicks. When it comes to sharpening, tools such as whetstones or files, are a matter of personal preference and ability.

Whetstones come in different gradations and sizes. A longer stone may be easier to use for garden tools. Whetstones require a lubricant such as 3-in-1 oil.

Diamond-coated flat files can last a lifetime and only require water for lubrication. For a quick sharpening job during the season, try a ceramic sharpener. Another quick fix is a bastard file.

It is not advisable to use power grinding stones. Heat generated through friction can make the metal brittle.

Once tools are sharp, coat the blade or metal surface lightly with an oil lubricant such as WD-40.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Every fall, an onslaught of leaves drop relentlessly into yards leaving homeowners to rake, bag, and haul them out on the curb. But what many don’t know is that those golden-hued leaves are gold in the garden.

After raking leaves this fall, think about recycling them on your property rather than bagging them for curbside pick-up.

Fallen leaves are one of the most readily available forms of organic matter for home gardeners. Decomposing leaves increase organic matter in the soil, can be used as mulch for garden beds and lawns, and are a valuable addition to compost piles.

Ways to Recycle Leaves

Break down leaves with a leaf shredder or mulcher. Or, run over raked leaves with a lawnmower to cut them into smaller pieces. This initial breakdown allows for improved air circulation and more surface area leading to quicker decomposition.

Be sure to separate diseased leaves from the leaves you plan to recycle or compost.

The rate of decomposition for leaves will depend on the leaf size, tree species, and moisture level. Brown leaves break down faster if they are shredded and moistened. If un-shredded leaves are applied as mulch, they tend to mat together and suffocate the soil or vegetation.

However, having matted leaves in a vegetable or annual garden bed in the fall will help smother winter annual weeds. In the spring, the leaves can be incorporated or tilled into the soil.

Another easy way to recycle leaves is by storing them in garbage bags with small holes that allows leaves to break down naturally. Wetting the leaves and having holes in direct contact with the earth, where more microbes are present, will speed up the decomposition process. The end result is referred to as leaf mold or partially decomposed leaves.

Leaf mold can then be used as mulch or saved as a carbon source for adding to your compost pile in the summer when there is less readily available "brown" materials.

Brown or dry materials are typically high in carbon and will help to balance the “green” or wet nitrogen-rich materials in a compost pile.

Why Not Leave the Leaves?

Leaves serve as a wonderful soil conditioner and increase organic matter in the soil, which has a variety of benefits. More organic material will increase the amount of microbial activity which includes beneficial bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms that aid in plant growth. Organic matter also coats finer clay particles in the soil providing more air space and binds sandy soils allowing for better water retention.

Ideal garden soils should test at 5% organic matter. A standard soil test will provide the percentage of organic matter in soil. For information on soil testing kits and labs, contact a University of Illinois Extension office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

By recycling leaves on your property, not only will you be improving your garden soil, you will also be making an environmentally conscious choice to keep your yard waste on-site rather than having it hauled off as waste.

To learn more about the basics of composting, visit extension.illinois.edu/global/composting-resources.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Brittnay Haag, horticulture educator

Even with the best teachers and best technology, sometimes the best learning happens in the garden. Many school grounds have gardens for visual reasons, but the benefits of having flowers, herbs, vegetables, and fruit trees go far beyond beautification.

While so much emphasis put on the use of technology in the classroom, many kids today are missing out on the experience right outside the school doors.

School gardens create hands-on learning opportunities for students that aren’t typically found in a classroom. Classes where students are able to plan, plant, and care for a green space have been proven to benefit not only the youth but also their community in a variety of ways. Research shows gardening activities can be brought into a variety of subjects and bring learning to life for science, social studies, math, writing, visual arts, health, and nutrition.

Imagine being able to dig in the soil to explore its makeup instead of looking at pictures. Students can observe firsthand the act of pollination and the life cycle of plants, or be inspired by the garden while writing an essay or painting a picture.

The garden can also be used for health and nutrition lessons or a place to practice physical fitness while pulling weeds or spreading mulch. By growing fruits and vegetables, children's food attitudes and behaviors can change for the better. They are more likely to eat vegetables they have grown themselves and share those preferences with others.

Young learners need a place to play, explore, and learn. School gardens can be an asset to every student and teacher, offering a place to get outdoors, connect with the natural world, and explore new concepts through experiential learning.

Illinois Extension horticulture staff are available to assist schools and childcare facilities of all sizes and grade levels with starting a garden, reviving an existing garden, or connecting the curriculum to the garden. To connect with an educator in your area, visit go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Richard Hentschel, horticulture educator

Every summer, neighbors on either side of their respective fences revive the great debate about which is better when it comes to summer lawn care. Do you water all summer or let Mother Nature take its course?

You can find pros and cons on both sides of the fence. One of the biggest perks is enjoying a beautiful, lush green lawn in the height of the summer heat, which has the downside when July’s water bill comes.

Hentschel advises deciding whether you are going to water or not in spring because it determines what other lawn management practices are needed.

If you are going to water all summer, that changes the fertilizer program, mowing frequency, and when to collect or leave lawn clippings. Depending on the age of the lawn, disease management may also be on your list.

Those who decide to water will need to maintain a higher level of care including adding fertilizer. The typical cool-season grasses naturally expect to go dormant during the heat of summer. Keeping the grass alive with water means it will need more energy through fertilizer. More water and more fertilizer mean more frequent mowing and an overall increase in the amount of time you’re likely to spend on lawn management.

If you have an older lawn, the potential for lawn fungal diseases can increase with more water and fertilizer. Newer lawns are grown from improved seeds that are less prone to disease. A good preventative practice is to map out your watering so the lawn is dry well before the end of the sunshine. Consider starting on the north or east sides of the home, where it will take longer to dry and finish on southern or western exposures.

For those who opt-out of watering, the lawn will stay green as long as the rain lasts. It will go dormant when the weather turns hot and dry.

Homeowners will find plenty of cost savings with this option. In addition to using less water, you’ll use less fertilizer because grass that is dormant does not need to be fertilized. A dormant lawn will also need to be mowed less often, meaning less fuel for the mower.

One of the best ways to keep your lawn looking good is to mow higher, more often, and with a sharp mower blade.

The taller grass blade further shades the soil, helping to retain what soil moisture is there. This works out very well for the lawn, whether you water or not.

There will be no need to figure out what to do with all the clippings either, so long as they do not smother the lawn.

To keep your grass green for as long as possible, Hentschel suggests top-dressing the lawn annually with quality black dirt or other organic matter that will absorb and hold water for the lawn to use later.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Andrew Holsinger, Horticulture Educator

The secret to salsa from scratch is using the freshest ingredients straight from a homegrown garden. Andrew Holsinger, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator says even those without a lot of outdoor space can grow salsa ingredients on a patio or porch.

While planting seeds in the ground gives you the best opportunity to pick custom cultivars for your personal preferences, most of these ingredients can also be grown in containers.

Tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic, and cilantro are key components of a salsa garden. Other plants include oregano, scallions, and cucumbers.

Holsinger advises planting vegetables and herbs according to your local hardiness zone and fertilizing throughout the growing season. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil for best results and water at the base of the plant will help gardeners avoid diseases from soil splashed onto leaves.

As the base ingredient, tomato variety has an impact on taste and the amount of liquid. For a thicker salsa, use paste tomatoes such as ‘Roma,’ ‘Marzano,’ ‘Veeroma,’ and ‘Viva Italia.’ For a thinner, watery salsa, use slicing varieties, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Better Boy,’ ‘Big Beef,’ and ‘Floramerica.’ Choose disease-resistant varieties.

Tomatoes are a warm-season vegetable that should be planted about two weeks after the average last frost date when soil temperatures stay above 60⁰F.

Tomatillos, also called Mexican ground cherries or Mexican husk tomatoes, are often used as a thickening agent in salsa or as the basis for a salsa verde. A sprawling relative of the tomato, tomatillo plants may be trained by pruning to stay within a designated area or container.

Peppers are tender warm-season vegetables that need higher temperatures than tomatoes and will determine the degree of heat in a salsa. Select pepper varieties based on shape, color, and disease resistance. Peppers can be picked at any size, but they are usually harvested when the fruit is mature.

Always exercise caution and wear plastic or rubber gloves when handling or picking hot varieties of peppers.

Onions are a cool-season vegetable. Holsinger advises planting long-day varieties in Northern Illinois and short-day varieties in Southern Illinois. There is also a newer day-neutral onion, which is between a short-day and long-day onion.

Garlic is a perennial that should be planted in the fall. It should be divided annually to get good-sized bulbs. Plant individual cloves in well-drained soil for the largest bulbs. Hardneck varieties have larger cloves than the softneck varieties and are easier to peel. Holsinger recommends the hardneck varieties ‘Spanish Roja,’ ‘Carpathian,’ and ‘Georgian Crystal.’

Cilantro is an herb often used to flavor salsas. Pick cilantro before the plant flowers and plant it in succession to maintain a steady supply through the season.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, horticulture educator

Pollinators are responsible for an estimated one in every three bites of food that humans eat, so it’s no wonder they’re getting a lot of buzz these days. For those who want to support these hard-working environmental contributors, but don’t have a large yard or outdoor space, container gardens are the answer.

There are a few things to consider when creating a container garden that will attract and support pollinators throughout the growing season, says Nancy Kreith, University of Illinois Extension. horticulture educator.

Pick a location that has full sun, at least six hours of daylight, and fill it with plants that will thrive in that condition.

You will have the most success with plants that are drought-tolerant. That way, you will not have to water as much. Annuals are a good choice, but you can also select Illinois native perennial plants.

One combination may be a short variety of zinnia as a border and cosmos as a centerpiece. Another option is lantana as a border and a shorter variety of sunflower, 3- to 4-feet tall, as a centerpiece. Marigolds can work as a border plant for annual blue salvia.

I’ve had great success in attracting hummingbirds with ‘Black & Blue’ salvia.

Native perennials that perform well in containers include purple coneflower, prairie blazing star, bottle gentian, lanceleaf coreopsis, prairie smoke, and field pussytoes.

Herbs grow well in containers. Dill, fennel, and parsley are host plants for the black swallowtail butterfly. Other herbs with significant blooms include lavender, chive, nasturtium, thyme, basil, borage, and hyssop. Group herbs based on their size when fully grown and watering needs.

Lavender and thyme are both fairly drought tolerant, so that would be a good combination.

Borage and nasturtium also work well together with borage filling the bulk of the pot while a trailing variety of nasturtium will spill over the side of the container.

Choosing the appropriate container is important. It should be large enough to support plenty of plants and have drainage holes at the bottom.

Kreith recommends using a soilless potting mix that is peat or coir based and includes a mineral, such as perlite to allow for better drainage. Add fertilizer or use a potting mix that already contains it.

Water plants until it drips out of the bottom of the container. Smaller containers will need to be watered more often.

During hot months, daily watering is typical. Larger containers will not dry out as fast, so every other day watering may be enough.

Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming and avoid unwanted reseeding. Monitor your perennials for stress levels and replace if they become unsightly or die.

Once the growing season is over, Kreith says containers can be brought indoors and overwintered in a garage, shed, or basement. If you’re going to leave them outside, group containers together in an area protected from wind, then water them and cover with a thermal blanket, straw, shredded leaves, or other mulch.

By Ken Johnson, horticulture educator

Blossom end rot is the scourge for any tomato grower. What starts as a light tan spot at the end of the fruit where the blossom was, will expand and eventually turn black and leathery.

When it comes to tomatoes, it is most commonly seen on larger fruited cultivars or long-fruited varieties like roma. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers, eggplants, squash, and watermelons.

Contrary to popular belief, blossom end rot is not caused by a disease or insects. It is actually a physiological disorder caused by low levels of calcium. There are few reasons a plant may not be getting enough calcium. Usually, it’s not an issue of a lack of calcium in the soil, but rather how well the plants absorb calcium.

Plant leaves transpire and naturally lose water so they then take up more water along with nutrients from the soil. Anything that gets in the way of transpiration can reduce calcium uptake.

Drought stress, inconsistent soil moisture, cold or waterlogged soils, and rapid vegetative growth due to too much nitrogen fertilization can all lead to blossom end rot. High concentrations of ammonium, potassium, and magnesium in the soil, often due to over-fertilization, can also cause issues with calcium uptake.

Others argue that blossom end rot is caused by abiotic stress to the plants. Drought, high light intensity, or heat cause cells in the fruits to die which results in blossom end rot.

Regardless of what exactly causes blossom end rot, there are steps gardeners can take to prevent it.

Start by picking tomato varieties that are less prone to developing blossom end rot, such as ‘Celebrity,’ ‘Mountain Pride,’ and cherry tomatoes. Do a soil test to find out the calcium levels and if calcium should be added.

Avoid excessive fertilization of plants during early fruiting, especially with fertilizers using ammonium as their nitrogen source (ammonium competes with calcium uptake).

Water plants deeply starting when fruits first form and continuing throughout the growing season. In general, plants need about one inch of moisture per week, whether from rain or irrigation. If hot, dry weather is predicted, make sure plants are well watered before it arrives and continue watering daily. Adding a top layer of mulch can help conserve and even out the moisture in the soil.

Containers dry out quickly, so these plants are more likely to develop blossom end rot without consistent watering. Potted plants should be fertilized. Some soilless potting mixes have low nutrient levels, so it may be necessary to add fertilizer.

Unfortunately, once a fruit has blossom end rot, there is nothing you can do. Foliar applications of calcium don’t help much because the calcium doesn’t move into the fruit well. It is best to remove the fruit and discard it. 

By Ryan Pankau, horticulture educator

In recent years, milkweeds have gained attention from the public due to their exclusive relationship with the monarch butterfly.

Many people are familiar with common milkweed. Before I knew the exact species name, I knew this plant was a milkweed and that it had milky sap.

The common milkweed is a notoriously weedy species, growing wherever its light, fluffy seeds land. Any open sunny habitat will do from roadside ditches to abandoned fields, along woodland edges and railroad tracks.

While you may be familiar with the common variety, there are more than 20 milkweed species native to Illinois.

The variety and adaptability in this plant family is really quite amazing. You can find milkweed thriving in nearly every environment throughout our state — wetlands, woodlands, open prairies, and even rocky glades.

Although many of them are remarkably adaptable, five species of milkweed are currently listed as endangered in Illinois and one is considered federally threatened.

Swamp milkweed is one of two native milkweeds that prefer wetland habitats with full sun and moist, not wet, soil. Despite these very specific preferences, it occurs in nearly every county across Illinois. It often pops up in drier locations where it takes on a narrow form with wider leaves, which can make field identification challenging.

The adaptability and attractive appearance of swamp milkweed makes it a popular landscape plant. Its small pink flowers are quite fragrant, exuding a cinnamon scent when it blooms.

Butterfly milkweed is another ornamental extrovert among the milkweed family often found in landscape plantings.

Many gardeners I’ve discussed this plant with over the years did not even realize it was actually a milkweed and for good reason.

Butterfly milkweed has an alternate leaf arrangement and lacks the trademark milky sap. To add to the confusion, it is commonly referred to as ‘butterfly weed’ on plant tags and in common parlance. It has immaculate orange blooms, while most milkweed flowers are white or pink. It has long-lasting blooms, which appear first in early summer and often for a second time in late summer or early fall.

Whether you’re looking for an interesting and ecologically valuable plant to add to your landscape, or just want to observe and enjoy interesting plant species in nature, consider this underrecognized Illinois native. There truly is a milkweed out there for everyone. 

By Austin Little, horticulture educator

As the air conditioners crank up this summer, so do the watering needs of the garden. Watering is one the simplest and most routine gardening tasks, but there are ways to make it more efficient.

The general rule of thumb for summer watering is about 1 inch of water per week for most herbaceous plants in the garden, but there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. 

When daytime temperatures start to get into the 90s, Little recommends doubling the irrigation amount to 2 inches per week, depending on how fast the soil is drying out.

One simple way to monitor how much water the garden is getting is to bury an empty tuna can even with the soil line. The can is 1-inch deep so it will act as a low-tech watering gauge.

When combined with a simple rain gauge, you’ll have a pretty good idea of your garden’s weekly watering needs. 

Automated watering systems are convenient, but when it’s raining, cooler, and cloudy, or hot and windy, the watering needs will change and it’s important to adjust an automated system as needed.

On average, 1 inch of irrigation can percolate down about 8 inches into the soil. Check to see whether water is getting to the root zone by probing a few inches into the soil with a trowel, or simply digging in with your finger.

If a lot of soil particles stick to your finger and there is noticeable moisture, then there’s likely sufficient soil water for the day. 

Containers drain out faster than in-ground plantings, so they may need to be watered once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. Signs like drooping, curling, yellowing and dropping leaves can indicate acute water stress, but it’s not always from too little water. Signs of overwatering can look remarkably similar so check soil moisture often.

It’s usually best to water early in the morning because this allows the water to soak into the root zone where it will be the most useful to the plant as the day warms up. Watering early also helps more water to absorb into the soil. As the day heats up, as much as two-thirds of the water from irrigation can be lost to evaporation.

Pairing drip lines or soaker hoses with mulch will help the soil hold onto moisture longer and keep the soil cooler on the hottest days. Place drip irrigation lines near plants and layer 2 inches of mulch over the lines and the plants. This combination will allow plants to thrive through the harshest summer heat.

By Jennifer Fishburn, horticulture educator

To a child, a dandelion is a magical thing. It’s one of the first plants we learn to recognize. The bright yellow flowers make cheerful bouquets, necklaces, and crowns. The fluffy white seed heads become wishes when we squeeze our eyes shut and blow.

Adults, especially home gardeners striving for a perfectly manicured lawn, tend to be less fond of this deep-rooted, cool-season, non-native perennial.

But believe it or not, dandelion seeds are available for purchase from garden seed catalog companies.

Common dandelion, Taraxacum officinale, is easily recognized by a basal rosette of deeply cut leaves, a long taproot, and a hollow stem that supports yellow flowers. The yellow flower is actually a composite of several flowers, each able to make a parachute-like brown seed that can be carried aloft several miles by the wind. The stalk can support as many as 100 to 300 flowers.

Fishburn says there are a couple of potential reasons that gardeners may want to cultivate dandelions.

Pollinating insects will visit dandelion flowers to collect pollen and nectar. While dandelions may not have the most nutritious pollen, they can still be an important food source when there aren’t many other flowers available. Dandelions will flower throughout the year but mainly appear in early spring or late fall.

They also have several culinary uses. Most recipes use the leaves, which are taste slightly bitter. Tender leaves, harvested in the spring before plants bloom, can be eaten raw, while older leaves are cooked. Use the leaves in salads, soups, as cooked greens, and in potato salad. The flowers can be made into wine or jelly.

If you are not a dandelion fan, it is possible to get rid of them, but ensuring that they won’t return requires some effort. Dandelions prefer to grow in a moist, sunny location, but will also grow in shade. If the soil is moist, a small dandelion can be successfully removed by hand.

Moist conditions make the job easier,” says Fishburn, “but even with moist soil, it is difficult to pull a dandelion and remove the entire taproot.

A dandelion can grow a six to 18-inch taproot. Leaving behind even a 1-inch section can result in a new plant.

A properly maintained, healthy, dense stand of turfgrass is the best defense against weed invasions. If necessary, Fishburn suggests doing a spot treatment in early fall with postemergence herbicides.

This is when the dandelion plant is taking food from the leaves and storing it in the roots. When using herbicides, always read and follow label directions carefully.

Whether the sight of these bright yellow flowers dotting a lawn makes you cringe or makes you smile, these plants are connected to memories of summer, childhood, and magic.

By Sarah Vogel, horticulture educator

Trees are large components in the landscape, both in size and life span. When pests, pathogens, or disorders appear or a tree is not cared for properly, the compromised tree can harm people or property.

Hiring someone to assess tree healthcare needs helps ensure the long-term health and safety of trees in the landscape. Choosing the right tree care company for your needs can mean the difference between an expensive headache and money well spent.

Certified arborists are trained and qualified in the evaluation and diagnosis of tree disorders through the International Society of Arboriculture. An arborist certification means they know about the science of tree establishment, pruning, safety, and fertilization in accordance with national standards.

Before hiring, we recommend the tree owner assess their needs. What do they need? Identification, diagnosis, pruning, or removal? A local Illinois Extension office can help clarify that process.

When diagnosing a tree, a reliable tree care company will ask questions such as when the tree was planted, how and when it has been pruned, what symptoms have been observed, and any recent nearby construction. Make note of symptoms and their timeline for easy reference.

Some companies specialize in regular maintenance, such as fertilizing or pruning hedges. Pruning fruit trees or pruning a limb over a building may warrant work from two different companies. If a tree needs to be removed, ask how and when the company will access the yard. Take precautions to minimize damage to surrounding structures, trees, lawns, and other objects.

It is important to confirm the company is insured. Insurance can protect both the tree service and the homeowner from litigation if there is an accident. Liability insurance covers damage to homeowner property and worker’s compensation insurance covers injuries to employees while working. Ask for proof of insurance before any work begins.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Tree care can be costly, and a considerate professional will take time to explain the process.

Ask for and check referrals and references. A brief conversation with another customer can often provide valuable insight. Online reviews are handy but don’t always paint the whole picture. Tree care can be expensive. Get two to three written estimates and ask the same questions of each company: cost, services included, equipment used, payment terms, and time estimates. Cheap doesn’t always mean good.

Ask for a contract if one is not offered. This holds both parties accountable in the event of miscommunication. Homeowners and tree service professionals should agree on what tasks will be performed and when.

Companies should require the use of personal protective equipment and all crewmembers should follow national safety standard guidelines. This is not the client’s responsibility to enforce, but they can specify that all work be performed according to safety standards.

When considering credentials, ISA-certified arborists on staff are recommended, but not required. The arborist may belong to a local chapter or other professional associations. These memberships do not guarantee quality, but they do show professional commitment. There are other credentials that go beyond regular terms of service to show outstanding ability and commitment, such as AED and CPR training, emergency aerial rescue certification, powerline safety certification, and climber safety certification.

A knowledgeable tree care professional will do the job well, satisfy their customer, and ensure the longevity of the tree. To find a certified arborist in your area, visit International Society of Arboriculture, Tree Care Industry Association, American Society of Consulting Arborists, Illinois Arborist Association, or contact your local Extension office.

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, horticulture educator

North America has lost 3 billion birds since 1970, according to a study from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. This is a 30% decrease.

This statistic may feel devastating and overwhelming, but you don’t have to feel helpless. There are some simple things that you can do to make your yard bird-friendly.

With habitat loss and degradation being the most significant contributors to population decline, the good news is that even small green spaces can provide the four things that birds need to thrive: food, cover, water, and space.

Landscape plants provide the food birds need to survive and raise their young and diversity is key. Seeds, nuts, berries, and the insects plants attract are all important sources of nourishment.

Young birds eat more than you might think. Even small adult birds, the chickadee, for example, need 6,000 caterpillars to raise a clutch of young birds.

Adding plants that provide food for caterpillars ensures an important food source for growing birds. Native trees, including oak, willow, cherry, plum, and birch can support many different caterpillar species. Herbs and native perennials, such as butterfly weed, violets, and dill are also host plants for caterpillars. 

Berries, nuts, and seeds are other essential food sources that provide calories to help birds prepare for overwintering or migration. Several native shrub varieties provide berries. Serviceberry, also known as Juneberry, produces berries in the early summer. Other native species, such as red twig dogwood, elderberry, viburnum, and spicebush yield berries throughout summer. Holly, chokecherry, hawthorn, and crabapple have fruit that stays on the branches, providing food all winter long. 

Common sources for nuts and seeds include oak, hickory, beech, maple, and birch trees. Spruce, pine, and fir trees provide pine nuts as well as year-round shelter for birds. Herbaceous plants, such as coneflower, aster, sunflower, and goldenrod provide seeds if left in the garden until spring. 

A bird-friendly yard must have cover for shelter and nesting sites. The dense structure of willow, hawthorn, holly, and conifer trees provides valuable protection. Milkweeds, native thistles, cinnamon ferns, and asters produce soft, fluffy material that many bird species use to build nests. 

Adding water to your landscape will also attract birds. Small ponds with uneven edges and shallow spaces provide a place for birds to drink, splash, and bathe. A small pump will keep water moving and reduce mosquito concerns.

For a less permanent option, try a birdbath. Change the water every two to three days and clean the bath with a scrub brush once a week to keep the water clean, healthy, and mosquito-free. 

A final element to consider is space. Wildlife feel more at home in layered, densely planted areas, so Flowers-Kimmerle recommends leaving part of a yard unmanicured.

Careful consideration for food, cover, water, and space in your yard will provide much-needed habitat for a variety of bird species. Even small changes can make a significant difference in supporting bird populations.

By Bruce J. Black, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Ice and snow. Ice and snow. Fluctuating temperatures and unusual warmer weather delayed this winter, but ice and snow did eventually arrive. After a long winter, we are all looking forward to spring 2021, fresh air and gardening.

While we are just now able to start seeds in March, thumbing through the 2021 seed and plant catalogs has hopefully brought you inspiration and warmth this winter.

Gardening starts long before the first seed is planted and planning is essential for both first-time and experienced gardeners.

Finding space for new plants that are suited for your USDA hardiness and having blossoms all year long can be a challenge. After mapping out your existing perennials, think about what new plants could be added to your landscape.

A great starting place is the All-America Selections, AAS, an independent non-profit organization that releases several trialed plants each year as AAS Winners. New, never-before-sold varieties are tested every year at the AAS private and public trial sites around the United States and Canada. There are four trial locations in Illinois - three northern, and one central.

Independent judges who are professional horticulturists volunteer to evaluate trial entries against comparison plants and the top performers are chosen as winners. For the best plants suited to Illinois, look for Great Lakes or National winners on the AAS lists.

2021 AAS Winners

This year, there are six AAS winners and five are suited for Illinois - three vegetables and two flowers.

• Echalion, Creme Brulee (Allium cepa var. Creme Brulee F1): This is the first shallot to ever be awarded the AAS Winner designation. Grown from a seed, this is a sweet tender bulb that is easy to peel and matures earlier than other shallots with only 98 days to harvest. Regional Great Lakes Vegetable Winner.
• Pepper, Pot-a-peno (Capsicum annuum var. Pot-a-peno): A compact, early maturing jalapeno perfect for containers. This green jalapeno changes to red for a sweet, spicy flavor. Time to mature is 45 to 50 days for green fruit and 60 to 65 days for red fruit. Regional Great Lakes Vegetable Winner.
• Squash, Goldilocks F1 (Cucurbita pepo var. Goldilocks): This acorn squash is vigorous, high yielding and disease tolerant. Bright orange with a rich nutty flavor and uniform shape it can be harvested in 70 to 85 days. National Vegetable Winner.
• Celosia, Kelos® Candela Pink (Celosia spicata var. Candela Pink): Like a tapered candle with showy pink plumes that keep color all season, this annual is 25- to 30-inches tall. Feed and water regularly for continued beauty. Regional Great Lakes Flower Winner.
• Zinnia, Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor (Zinnia hybrida var. Profusion Red Yellow Bicolor): This annual flower blossoms with a bold red center encircled by golden petals. As the season goes on, the colors soften into shades of apricot, salmon and rose. Compact at 8- to 14-inches tall and beautiful all season long. Great for a hanging basket or edging. Gold Medal Winner.

But don’t just stop with the 2021 winners. All-America Selections keeps a list of all past vegetables and flowers winners since its founding in 1933 on their website, all-americaselections.org.

For more information about gardening, check out the Illinois Extension website Watch Your Garden Grow at extension.illinois.edu/veggies/index or Illinois Extension Horticulture YouTube Channel go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Martha A. Smith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

A continuously connected lifestyle can drain internal batteries quickly, but digging into the world outside may be the best way to rejuvenate, revitalize and recharge.

The gadgets of gardening aren’t flashy: a shovel, pruners, hoses and bags of seeds. All are simple yet practical, and useful but not at all high-tech.

Gardener responses to a National Garden Bureau survey about why they garden hailed the health, economic, and social benefits of gardening. They also extolled the many joys found in working the land. With so many advantages to gardening, it’s not surprising the top 10 reasons are so diverse.

Garden to produce safe, healthy food

Consumers are increasingly aware of food-borne illnesses, food contamination, and the additives and preservatives found in processed food. This, coupled with interest in organic gardening, has increased the availability of organic produce.

Working out(side)

Studies show that an hour of moderate gardening can burn up to 300 calories for women and almost 400 calories for men, Mowing the grass mimics a vigorous walk. Planting requires bending and stretching, just like an exercise class. There are also devices that can help people with physical limitations enjoy the advantages of working in their garden. More information is available at go.illinois.edu/4seasonsAdaptive.

A thing of beauty

A well-tended garden enhances any setting of any size, and provides a pleasurable vista, and trees and shrubs provide color and shade, as well as shelter for birds and wildlife. More information about small space gardening is available at go.illinois.edu/SmallSpaceGardens.

Garden to learn

Gardening helps individuals learn by doing while building knowledge, gardening expertise and problem-solving skills. Gardeners find that the more they learn, the more they want to know.

Garden to earn

The love of plants can lead to anything from a job at a local garden center to owning a landscape business. Gardeners also can sell their products at local farmers markets or craft show, and landscaping projects can increase property values by up to 15%.

Sharing knowledge, broadening horizons

Gardeners love to share their gardens and their knowledge, thus expanding their social circle. Even during a pandemic, meetups with other gardeners can take place in socially distanced environments or online, and provides a way to gather information, ask questions and get involved.

Tapping into creativity

For many, gardening is an outlet for inspiration and artistic expression. Attention to design can produce everything from the serene, contemplative mood of a Japanese garden to the romantic feel of an English cottage.

Gardening to win

If you’ve got a competitive streak, gardening may be a friendly way to show off your skills. County and state fairs provide opportunities for adults and children to show off their skills as they grow giant pumpkins, beautiful bountiful beans or the perfect zinnia.

Benefits to emotional health

Gardens play an important part in our wellbeing. A garden may serve as a tranquil retreat or private escape from the demands of your daily life. A healthy harvest provides a sense of achievement and feelings of success. Gardening builds confidence and self-esteem.

Grow lasting memories

Gardening is an intergenerational activity that’s appropriate for all ages. Memories of your garden and gardening with you may help motivate young horticulturists to become the master gardeners of tomorrow. Find ideas about cultivating the next generation of gardeners at go.illinois.edu/GardeningWithKids. Each year, as they harvest their own crops, they’ll recall the sweetness of your cherry tomatoes or the beauty of the hydrangeas that you cultivated together.

That’s one of greatest gifts that a garden can give.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. 

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Ron Wolford, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Cloudy, cold winter days may seem endless, but as the weather warms, bulbs will bloom and grass will green, giving way to sure signs of spring.

Grab your trowel and get ready. Spring is just days away.

Starting seeds

Keep in mind how last year the pandemic saw new gardeners flood garden centers and increase demand for products sold by online seed companies. Buy your summer-flowering bulbs, seeds and transplants early. Last year, many seeds and transplants were in short supply or out of stock. This spring, order your seeds early and purchase your transplants as soon as they are available.

It’s also important to avoid damping-off disease when starting seeds. Damping-off will cause seedlings to wilt and die. Use a pasteurized soil-less medium. Keep the temperature around 65 to70 degrees Fahrenheit for best germination and provide bottom heat if possible. Most of all, avoid overwatering. 

Soil preparation

Prepare the soil before planting. This means removing rocks and debris form the soil. Dig in a 2- to 4- inch layer of organic matter, which helps to breakdown heavy clay soils and improves drainage.

Never work your soil when it is wet. Tilling or digging when the soil is wet will cause it to dry into concrete-like clods.

Pick up a handful of soil before digging and squeeze. If it crumbles easily, it is ready to be dug. If it doesn't, it is too wet. Allow the soil to dry for a couple of more days and test again before digging.

Late spring frosts

Be prepared for late spring frosts. Cover tender plants with row covers, cardboard, blankets, hot caps, or newspaper. Do not use metal or plastic for protection, because these can conduct cold to plants.

We have had frost close to Memorial Day in Illinois. The latest spring frost occurred in Rockford on May 27, 1992.

The growing season between the last spring frost and the first fall frost ranges from around 160 days to 190 days from northern to southern Illinois.

Transplanting

Buy healthy transplants. Leaves and stems should be green and healthy without any signs of yellowing or browning. Gently remove transplants from their pot and check the root system. Roots should be white with visible soil. Check for insects such as whiteflies or aphids. 

Harden off transplants. Before exposing transplants to cool, spring temperatures, wind and sun, gradually introduce them to the outdoor environment over a 10-to-14-day period. At first, place the transplants in a shaded area for a couple of hours. Gradually increase their exposure to sunlight each day until they are outdoors for 24 to 48 hours before planting.

Perennials and ornamentals

Divide perennials. Dig around the plant and lift the clump out of the ground. Break the clump into sections. Larger sections will re-establish quicker than smaller sections. Keep the clumps moist until ready to plant. 

Cut back. Cut back ornamental grasses to about 4 to 6 inches. Not removing the foliage will delay the warming of the crown of the plant and will slow new growth. Ornamental grasses should be divided in the spring if the center of the plant has died out or if it has become overgrown.

For more information on bulbs, perennials, seeds or transplants, check out these Illinois Extension resources: 

• go.illinois.edu/BulbInfo
• go.illinois.edu/Perennials
• go.illinois.edu/StartingSeeds
• go.illinois.edu/GrowTransplants

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nancy Kreith, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension 

It may seem too early to think about the harvest, but across Illinois, gardeners are anticipating the time that they can get ever-popular vegetables like broccoli, onion, and kale into the ground. 

These and other hardy vegetables can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Typically, this occurs from mid-March to early April. Less frost tolerant vegetables can be planted soon after. 

Gardeners should schedule their planting dates based on crop hardiness and days to maturity. Hardy vegetables can be planted in the spring, four to six weeks before the average frost-free date (32 degrees Fahrenheit.). Half-hardy or frost tolerant vegetables can be planted two to three weeks before spring’s frost-free date. Some vegetables that are quicker to mature can also be planted in late summer for a fall harvest.  

Keep in mind that frost-free dates are averages. Actual dates will vary each year. Growers can provide additional protection by planting one to two weeks later in the spring to avoid late season frost. In the fall, plant one to two weeks early for protection against an early frost. You can also cover plants to protect against early or late season frost.  

The Illinois State Water Survey has information about your local spring and fall frost-free dates 

Hardy vegetables

Hardy vegetables can be planted four to six weeks before the average frost-free date, or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. A few can be planted again in late August to early September for a successful fall harvest. 

• Broccoli* 
• Brussels Sprouts 
• Cabbage* 
• Garlic* (best planted in fall)  
• Kale* 
• Kohlrabi* 
• Leek* 
• Onion 
• Pea 
• Rutabaga* (needs 100 days) 
• Spinach* 
• Turnip* 

*Can be planted for fall harvest. 

Half-hardy vegetables

In Illinois, half-hardy vegetables can typically be planted from late-March to early May. Most of these crops can be planted again in mid-July to early September. Potato and parsnip are the exception, and best planted in the spring.  

• Beet 
• Carrot 
• Cauliflower 
• Chinese Cabbage 
• Lettuce, leaf 
• Mustard 
• Parsnip 
• Potato 
• Radish  
• Swiss Chard 

In addition to knowing when to plant these vegetables, it’s important to know how to select, plant and harvest them. Root crops, broccoli, and leafy greens each require special consideration. 

Root crops 

Root crops require well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Directly sow seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Prepare a shallow trench/row and spread a pinch of seed along the row. Once seedlings are 1 or 2 inches tall, thin them to the correct spacing, typically 1 to 4 inches apart, depending on the vegetable. Harvest by pulling the plants from the ground and trimming off the tops when necessary. Beet tops can be eaten along with the sprouts that were thinned out. 

Brassica (Broccoli-family crops) 

Plant by direct seeding or by using transplants. Transplants are preferred with many Brassica crops as they establish faster and mature earlier. Harvest these crops at the right time based on the edible part of the plant by following instructions on the seed packet or plant label. For broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, harvest once head forms. Timing is essential because vegetables can easily become over-mature, e.g., when broccoli begins to flower. For kale and collards, harvest the outer, mature leaves. This allows for continual harvest from summer to fall. 

Leafy greens 

You will want to direct seed most leafy greens because it is more economical. Lettuce and Swiss chard can be transplanted, but spinach, mustard, and turnip are best direct-seeded. Consider succession planting. This means planting in two-to-three-week intervals to yield a more useable harvest over a longer period.  

Most leafy greens are fast maturing. Leaves should be harvested when young and tender and can be harvested as baby leaves. Typically, lettuce and mustard are ready to harvest from seed in just 30 to 40 days. Harvest by cutting whole plant or harvest individual, outer leaves. 

General vegetable gardening tips 

• Prepare the soil well and fertilize as needed. 
• Incorporate organic matter into the soil annually. 
• Choose disease-resistant plants. 
• Purchase fresh seed. 
• Provide consistent moisture during germination period. 
• Plant and harvest at the proper time. 
• Provide proper post-planting care. 
• Water deeply and less frequently (at least 1” per week).  
• Mulch with straw (free of seed heads) or shredded leaves. 
• Monitor for pest and disease. 
• Follow good sanitation practices. 
• Clean up the garden at the end of the growing season. 
• Consider planting a cover crop  

For more information about gardening, check out Illinois Extension website Watch Your Garden Grow at extension.illinois.edu/veggies or Illinois Extension Horticulture YouTube Channel go.illinois.edu/UniversityOfIllinoisExtensionHorticulture. 

Download this handy guide on Cool Season Vegetables. 

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.  

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Ryan Pankau, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension 

They are beautiful, tempting, and frequently for sale in Illinois garden centers, but blue spruce and Callery pear have no home in land of Lincoln landscapes. 

These two fall onto my ‘do not plant’ list. Many such ornamental plants make my list due to their invasive habit, but some are on there for generally poor performance as urban trees. 

Colorado Blue Spruce 

One such tree, the Colorado blue spruce, Picea pungens, is native to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado and several surrounding western states. Adapted to the cool, dry climate of the Rockies, it does well in more sandy and well drained soils.  

However, it is commonly sold in Illinois gardening centers. Despite its unique and beautiful, blue-green foliage, Colorado blue spruce tops my list of trees not to plant in Illinois. When planted in the Midwest, blue spruce suffers from our hot humid summers and often poorly drained soils. 

Unless blue spruce is planted in near optimal conditions for Illinois, the stresses of our climate and soils add up over time to reduce plant heath and vigor. As these trees mature, it is a sure bet they will suffer from a variety of common diseases, issues and problems.  

For information about common issues with spruce trees, check out go.illinois.edu/SpruceProblems. 

Callery Pear 

Callery pear, Pyrus calleryana, is widely planted for its ornamental value, with more than 20 cultivars available at my last count.   

The plant certainly has ornamental appeal, with nearly a month or more of flower display each spring, beautiful dark green foliage and a nice pyramidal habit. A native of East Asia, Callery pear has relatively few disease or insect issues here in the U.S. However, it is highly susceptible to storm damage.   

Callery pear’s compact and pyramidal habit can be attributed to a propensity for narrow branch angles with weak attachment. At maturity, the ultimate fate for many of these trees is to peel apart in a wind or ice storm, leaving an irregular and unattractive canopy. 

On a more serious note, this species has shown increasing invasive activity over the past few decades.  While most cultivars are sterile, cross pollination between the many commonly planted varieties has created fertile fruits.  As birds eat and disseminate these fruits, new pear trees pop up all over the place.   

From fence rows to highway right of ways, to edges of our yards or local natural areas, you can see Callery pear on nearly any drive around central Illinois when it is in flower. 

It is one of the only woody species to have white, abundant flowers during its bloom time in early spring, making it easily identifiable.  

Callery pear is yet another plant that I would argue has great ornamental value, like the blue spruce. However, vulnerability to storm damage can limit its longevity in the landscape and when you combine that with the threat to natural areas it poses as an invasive species, it’s just a tree that we all need to stop planting. 

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season. 

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips! 

By Chris Enroth, Extension Educator

Gardeners facing the aftermath of a hard winter often find themselves staring at problematic raised beds with soil that seems to have shrunk since the first frost.

Many gardeners remember building and planting their first raised beds. Without a doubt, the plants grow exceptionally well. Root crops are a breeze and weeds almost non-existent.

Then after the first winter, they inspect the beds only to find boards are starting to bow, weeds have begun to sprout and soil levels have dropped significantly.

Tackle soil problems

It is especially important to care for the soil in raised beds, and there are many methods of mixing soil and organic material to create that perfect raised bed fill. But even the best of gardeners will need to refresh the raised bed eventually. I thought I was done hauling wheelbarrow loads of dirt, but settling soil is simply a fact of raised bed gardening.

Annually, topdressing with a few inches of compost or high-quality topsoil into our raised beds should be enough to keep up with the settling soil level. But occasionally a raised bed demands more significant attention to its soil structure.

Most raised beds are filled with some type of compost and topsoil mixture. For newly built raised beds, there is little soil structure to this freshly installed fill material. It is due to this poor structure and frequent disturbance by the gardener, that raised bed soils tend to settle.

Cover crops, tilling and weed management

One way to help build structure is to sow cover crops in the offseason. That way roots consistently inhabit the raised bed soil, which helps to build the soil structure. While cover crops won’t halt raised beds from settling it will slow the process and build a vibrant medium for your garden to grow.

Tilling has its place in gardening but can be overdone. Typically, I recommend gardeners till new raised beds, if necessary, to mix the different fill components. Tilling can also be useful if you need to make some significant amendments in the future. However, avoid tilling your raised bed once it is established as tilling can destroy the developing soil structure of your raised bed and speed up the settling process.

While often raised beds start weed-free, over time weed seeds will find their way into the garden. Mulching the raised bed can be combined with topdressing to help suppress germinating weed seeds. Mulch can come in a variety of forms. Typically, vegetables gardeners use mulch that can decompose such as straw or arborist wood chips.

Though raised beds require maintenance, and while it may require getting out that wheelbarrow, the effort can be worth it for improved growing conditions and easier access.

Illinois Extension features information on caring for soil at go.illinois.edu/GoodGardenSoil, and a detailed how-to on raised bed gardening at go.illinois.edu/HORTRaisedBeds. Off season cover crops are covered in depth at go.illinois.edu/OffSeasonCover.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, Extension Educator, Illinois Extension 

Spring brings thoughts of beautiful, colorful, fragrant blooms that brighten up our landscapes after a long winter.  

But we aren't the only ones on the lookout for flowers. Pollinators are looking for them also. Heirloom flowers provide these pollinators with more of the resources they require. 

Heirloom vs. Hybrid 

Hybrids are a cross between two types that create specific traits such as flower shape, color, the height of the plant, or disease resistance. These varieties are very uniform in the first season of growth. Seeds saved from those first plants develop into plants with much more variation.   

Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated. These flowers stay true to type if another variety does not cross-pollinate them. If you plan to save seed from your heirloom flowers, plant other varieties of the same plant at least 3 feet away from each other. Plant them closer together to experiment with creating your own varieties.   

Benefits of heirloom flowers 

If you are looking to create a pollinator-friendly flower garden, heirloom varieties are a good choice. They often produce more pollen and are a nectar food source for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Plant in groups to make your garden even more attractive to pollinators.   

Heirloom varieties are also known to have more fragrance than modern hybrids. You may notice that old-fashioned roses and sweet peas have more scent than newer varieties. Finding unique bloom color that varies from the current trend is also possible with heirloom varieties.   

Because heirloom varieties are usually taller, they are excellent for cutting gardens. These beautiful blooms can brighten up a room. Since they grow taller, supporting them with stakes is a good idea.   

Heirloom annuals for your flower garden 

Here are some heirloom annuals that can be planted directly into your garden. Not only will they produce an abundance of blooms, but they will also provide much-needed resources for pollinators.   

• Sweet peas, Lathyrus odoratus, have beautiful, colorful, fragrant blooms. This vining plant does best in cool weather and is one of the first blooming annuals in the garden. Harvesting flowers will encourage more bloom growth. They will produce blooms until the heat of summer. Look for old-fashioned heirloom varieties for the best sweet pea fragrance. 
• Bachelor's buttons or cornflowers, Centaurea cyanus, are hardy annuals that self-sow. These pretty little blooms are great for a flower bed or as an addition to cut flower bouquets. They range in color from white to blue to burgundy. Bachelor's Buttons are a lovely flower to add to a cottage-type garden.   
• Cosmos, Cosmos bipinnatus, are delicate-looking flowers but are drought tolerant and prefer poor soils. Varieties vary in color from white, pink, burgundy, yellow, and orange. These beautiful blooms are lovely bouquets. This cut and come again plant will produce flowers from summer to fall. 
• Four o'clocks, Mirabilis jalapa, are easy to grow from seed. These flowers open in the cooler temperature of the evening. These trumpet-shaped blooms have a lemony-sweet scent that attracts hummingbirds and moths. Flowers can be white, yellow, and magenta with stripes or splashes of colors on the petals.   

For more details on growing flowers and pollinators, contact your local extension office at extension.illinois.edu/global/Where-We-Serve. For more garden tips, check out the Illinois Extension Horticulture website at go.illinois.edu/exthorticulture.  

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.  

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!  

By Kelly Allsup, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

When victory gardens returned last spring, long gone were acre plots with rows and rows of vegetables.

Instead, a new generation of gardeners emerged, interested in home cooking and food access. They grew herbs and small-scale varieties in backyard strips, patios, or balconies.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, 16 million people, many under the age of 35, started gardening, according to the Garden Media Group.

We expect these new gardeners will continue growing in 2021. Most will likely be growing their own vegetables, fruits, and herbs in small spaces like raised beds, containers, and grow bags. 

Produce from lettuces to peppers can be grown successfully in a variety of containers and gardeners are only limited by their imagination, willingness to experiment, and availability of drainage holes. Whether choosing standard patio containers or fabric grow bags, each vegetable has unique minimum size needs.

For example, tomatoes need a container that is at least 20” in diameter at the top, while leafy greens only need a 10” diameter container.

The diameter of the top of the container is the “Minimal Pot Size.” Container heights are usually categorized as “standard” or “azalea." Azalea pots are shorter and ideal for plants with minimal roots such as herbs. When in doubt, standard pots are recommended for growing vegetables and are readily available at garden centers.

Container sizes and Soil Volume Recommendations for Common Plants

Minimal pot size

• Tomatoes >20”
• Peppers >16”
• Carrots >12”
• Radish, Onion, Beets, Leafy Greens, Herbs and Flowers > 10”

Soil Volume by pot size

• 10" = 3 gallon
• 12" = 5 gallon
• 14" = 7 gallon
• 16" = 10 gallon
• 18" = 15 gallon
• 24" = 25 gallons
• 30" = 30 gal.

Containers do well with spinach, Swiss chard, beets, kohlrabi, kale, eggplant, peppers, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, and herbs such as cilantro and basil.

Container Friendly Vegetables

We’ve learned that some vegetables, tomatoes and squash for example, are not well suited for containers. But the green industry has created smaller varieties that can grow in smaller soil volumes.

Many of these container suitable vegetables may need to be ordered as seeds from garden catalogs, but some may be available as transplants in local garden centers. 

• ‘Micro Tom’ tomato
• ‘Dwarf Yellow Crookneck’ squash
• ‘Romeo’
• ‘Short Stuff’ carrots
• ‘Baby Ball’ beets
• ‘Mexican Miniature’ watermelon
• ‘Striped Guadeloupe Fairy Tale’ baby eggplant
• ‘Tom Thumb’ peas
• ‘Mini White’ cucumbers
• ‘Kitchen Minis’ bell peppers and tomatoes
• ‘Huckleberry’ potatoes.

Container Friendly Fruits

Bushel and Berry is a series of berries described as “patio perfect.” They grow shorter but may have cold hardiness issues. It includes a ‘Raspberry Shortcake’, which fruits in late June, and ‘Baby Cakes Blackberry’, which produces a crop its first year in September and its second year in July.

Gardener's Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Jennifer Fishburn, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Culinary herbs can add variety and splashes of color to any deck, balcony or patio, making them an excellent option for many small space gardeners.

These plants add a variety of color to the landscape and are good filler plants in perennial and herb gardens. In addition, herbs will add flavor to your favorite food dish, and many are a source of pollen and nectar for pollinating insects. Planting a container garden can be fun, adding variety, fragrance and a splash of color to a deck, balcony, patio or any small space.

A container is anything that will hold growing media and has drainage holes, which are important because they prevent root rot.

Herbs in containers can be planted alone or mixed with annual flowers or vegetables. Place containers where plants will receive full sun.

For some fun, pick a theme for your container:

• Chocolate-covered strawberries: chocolate mint and a strawberry plant. 
• Lemon drop:  lemon basil, golden lemon thyme, lemongrass, lemon balm, and lemon verbena.
• Pizza garden: oregano, sage, thyme, marjoram, and winter savory.
• Kitchen corner: thyme, lavender, sage, oregano, parsley, rosemary, and chives.

Select a container large enough to allow space for root growth. For good root growth, most herb plants will need a soil depth of 6 to 8 inches. Taller plants such as dill and fennel need at least a depth of 10 inches. A 12-inch container will hold about three or four herb plants while a 15-inch container can support about five or six plants.

A good quality potting media should be sterile and should retain moisture and allow for aeration. Plants in containers will need fertilizer throughout the growing season, so purchasing a potting media with slow-release fertilizer is a good idea. Or use a soluble complete fertilizer after planting.

Be sure to apply soluble fertilizers at a low application rate. Too much fertilizer will cause herb plants to grow quickly, reducing flavor and aroma. 

Drought tolerant herbs do particularly well in containers, and tender perennial herbs such as rosemary are good choices as well. Plants with a trailing habit look nice cascading over the edge of a pot. You can also plant herbs and vegetables together.

The most important thing to remember is that container gardens must be watered. The most common problem with container gardens is under or over watering. Over-watering may cause root rot, fungal problems or fungus gnats. Symptoms of over-watering include wilting and reduced growth. Under-watering symptoms include wilting and scorching. As with over-watering, repeated wilting will stunt growth.

To properly water, apply water until it runs out the drainage holes. Containers dry out quickly so check containers at least twice a day on hot, dry, windy days.

Harvest herbs regularly to keep the plant growth compact and bushy. Herb plants are easy to maintain, can grow in almost any full sun location and give gardeners the satisfaction of eating the fruits of their labor.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Gemini Bhalsod, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Those who love wildflowers, gardening, or an have an expansive lawn may want to plant a native plant garden this year.

But you don’t need a huge space to incorporate native plants into your existing environment.

Illinois native plants are not only beautiful, but they also support pollinators and have environmental benefit. There are many low maintenance options that will work great for you.

Planning is key

Planning and design are an important first step towards designing a successful garden. And though the cold is currently upon us, it’s never too early to begin thinking about the warmer days ahead.

We usually think about installing, planting, and enjoying our gardens, but I encourage you to spend time this winter and early spring planning your native gardens. By making note of your garden’s conditions, you can choose plants that are most likely to thrive.

First, pay close attention to sun and soil, considering whether you want to plant your new garden bed in full sun, part sun, or shade. Determine the condition of your soil. Is it usually wet with poor drainage? Illinois Extension resources can help you understand more about what you will need for success.

Say goodbye to existing vegetation

Be sure to kill off any existing vegetation, such as turf and weeds. My favorite eco-friendly way to kill existing vegetation is to use a weighed-down tarp or layers of wet cardboard and newspaper. You can just remove the tarp and plant directly in the soil after a few months, or put fresh soil and mulch on the cardboard and plant immediately. The materials will eventually break down.

When selecting plants and designing, keep these things in mind for success:

• Select Illinois native species from your region.
• Look for straight species, not cultivars, for the greatest wildlife benefit.
• Choose locally grown plants when possible.
• Determine the size of the plant you need to purchase (seeds, plugs, quarts, or gallons). The more the roots are developed, the easier the plant is to establish
• Choose plants with four-season interest and aim for continuous blooms throughout the spring, summer, and fall.
• Plant in groupings of three or five plants.
• Layer plants for more dimension: trees, shrubs, grasses, forbs, and ground covers
• Install edging for a well-managed look. Native gardens don’t all need to look like prairies!
• You don’t have to plant all or nothing, mix natives and non-natives into your landscape.
• Keep low growing plants in front of windows to keep a nice view

For more information, watch Illinois Extension’s Good Growing webcast about native plants at go.illinois.edu/hortvideonatives.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!

By Mary Fischer, Horticulture Educator, Illinois Extension

Gardeners who look forward to enjoying their landscapes during warm summer nights should consider creating a moonlight garden to extends the experience late into the evening.

Moonlight gardens have been around for centuries. There’s something about a beautiful garden illuminated by moonlight that engages the senses in a different way.

It’s not difficult to create a moonlight garden, provided the designer takes care to focus on specific elements.

Site selection

First, determine where moonlight typically falls, and consider existing objects or plantings that occupy the space. These could block out moonlight through the shadows they cast. Consider views from within the home. These should be as unhindered as possible.

Install low-output artificial night lighting. Hardware stores and home centers offer inexpensive lighting kits, and solar lights can offer subtle illumination to specific garden areas. Reflective items such as mirrors add ambiance and a perception that the space is larger.

Consider a water feature, which provides relaxing sounds and can be illuminated for interest as well.

Plant Selection

Fragrant plants add charm and romance, something gardeners have recognized for centuries. Archeologists discovered ruins of a lost garden at the Taj Mahal that contained night-blooming white flowers that perfumed the evening air.

Consider plants that sparkle or glimmer in moonlight or in subtle lighting. Make sure to include plants that have light colored or white blossoms and light or silver-gray foliage. Add evergreen plants, since these provide the garden with structure in winter, and vividly contrast with white flowers and light-colored foliage.

Suggested annuals, perennials, and other plants

White-blooming annual varieties include ageratum, begonias, cosmos, daisies, dianthus, impatiens, marigolds, pansies, spider flower, violas, and zinnias. White-scented annuals include alyssum, petunias, night phlox, stock and flowering tobacco.

White or light-colored perennial varieties include asters, bellflowers, bugbane, candytuft, dahlias, Shasta daisies, daylilies, foamflower, foxglove, irises, mums, peonies, creeping phlox, and violets. White-scented perennials may include peonies and roses.

Designers should also look for trees and shrubs that have white flowers, and include bulbs such as crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, lily-of-the-valley, snowdrops, and tulips. And remember vines, which can add vertical interest, as well as light and depth to the space.

Gardener’s Corner is a quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Extension team of horticulture experts. Each issue highlights best practices that will make your houseplants, landscape or garden shine in any season.

How will you grow? Join the Gardener’s Corner email list and get direct access to timely tips!